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R&R Gearboxes without removing engine
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smfulle View Drop Down
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Points: 6140 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2018 at 6:26pm
Originally posted by Jeff_Davis Jeff_Davis wrote:

Now for Stan, I have done some special research, cuz I thought his OJ can lid suggestion was totally unworkable - why too small... and I was right!  To get proper hole coverage you need to go with a large can lid, like from a big can of peaches.  A standard can top might work, but why work with a couple of fingers in there when you can use a larger lid and get your hand in there and get some work done?
Jeff


Hah! Jeff, you have gone above and beyond in the research arena. 

i have used the canned fruit lid method of hole covering in my 59 Chevy pickup.  Of course I did it in my pickup in the most Bubba fashion possible. I stuck it down with RTV. Embarrassed
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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Thanks for the pic Jeff.  I think I'll do that to mine.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Nice write up Stan.  Well done!
1- 1946 CJ2A   
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Points: 2177 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov. 2018 at 2:10pm
He Stan - which HF transmission jack are you using? They have three different sizes.  Just wonder which works best. 
Thanks
Steve
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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smfulle View Drop Down
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Originally posted by ndnchf ndnchf wrote:

He Stan - which HF transmission jack are you using? They have three different sizes.  Just wonder which works best. 
Thanks
Steve

I don’t remember there being a choice when I went down to the HF store so I don’t think I have much input for which one works best. I can look closer at this one when I get home. 

This one does have little legs on it that are adjustable somewhat that CAN make it easier to balance the awkward shape of the assembly. I have not found the chain to be very helpful in holding the assembly on because the latching mechanism is way less than functional. The chain is good for holding on to and dragging the thing across the street when the neighbor wants to borrow it though.
Stan
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Points: 989 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov. 2018 at 6:46pm
If you have a floor jack with a removable saddle (I love this jack: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916420), it's easy to make a transmission adaptor with some thick plywood and 2x4" blocks in strategic places.  The plywood is large enough to support the transmission & transfer case and the 2x4 blocks keep the transmission assembly reasonably level and stable. 
 
My method is similar to Stan's but I leave the frame crossmember bolted to the transmission and I leave the bellhousing on the motor.
Alan Johnson
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smfulle View Drop Down
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Points: 6140 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec. 2018 at 5:55pm
Did  the install last night. Thought I had more pictures than this. Confused

i have an old input shaft that I use for a clutch alignment tool. Clutch in and buttoned up.



This is why I like to take the bell housing out with the transmission. Getting the throw out bearing, spring, and fork all lined out in the bell housing and the spring hooked on the little tab on the transmission nose piece.
 Spring not hooked up yet in this pic. I use a pair of vice grips to stretch it over to the hole. A little dab of grease on the splines and the face of the bearing, some on the nose piece tube where the bearing slides back and forth. This is my used bearing, but the new OMIX one I bough didn't feel right so I put the old one in. Not much time on it anyway.


This is a terrible picture but it has the clutch fork installed. 


i also put the clutch cable on the fork. Lots easier to get to before the install. It sometimes will slip off during the install, but it's usually not to hard to get it back in with everything bolted together. 


Here's the whole assembly sitting on the transmission jack, ready to slide under the jeep. it's kind of tippy on the jack so you have to be careful. i don't put the cross member on the transmission because that thing will wack me in the face if the transmission rolls off the jack while I'm lying under the jeep.
If you haven't put your jeep up on jack stands, the assembly with on the transmission jack will not fit under the frame.  I learned that the hard way a few years ago. It's not easy getting the heavy assembly on the transmission jack while laying on your back under the jeep.


i though I had a really awkward picture of my feet on the end of the transfer case as I held onto the rear bumper and wiggled the whole assembly in with my feet, but apparently I can't wiggle a gear box assembly with my feet, hold on to a bumper with one hand and take a picture with the other hand. Ouch
But that is how I get the whole thing pushed in. 
Get the input shaft started into the clutch splines then go around to the back of the jeep and lay down, sliding feet under the rear axle until you can reach the transfer case still sitting on the transmission jack. Now wiggle and push with your feet. This method has always worked for me. A few good wiggles and it slides on in to the pilot bushing. 
Then get your bolts started in the holes and pull it together the last inch or so. If the gap between the bell housing and engine is more than an inch or so you probably should get back around the back and wiggle and push with your feet some more. You don't want to pull things together with the bolts if everything is not lined up correctly.


Once I get the assembly slid in and bolted up I switch the transmission jack for the floor jack  so I have room to get the cross member in (I still have the bottle jack under the engine oil pan to hold everything up while I change jacks on the transmission). 


The floor jack works great to lift the whole assembly including, the cross member up so you can bolt the cross member to the frame. 
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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Gil View Drop Down
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Good information Stan.Thumbs Up
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This is the adapter that is constructed to bolt the transmission to my transmission jack. This allows the bellhousing, transmission, and transfer case to be installed in one piece. The engine is supported with a separate jack under the oil pan using a 2x4 to spread the load. The jeep is up on very high jack stands so that the assembly will clear the frame. I install the cross member after the bell housing is bolted to the engine.

It keeps the assembly from tipping off the transmission jack much better than the flimsy chain that is provided with the jack.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Originally posted by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A wrote:



This is the adapter that is constructed to bolt the transmission to my transmission jack. This allows the bellhousing, transmission, and transfer case to be installed in one piece. The engine is supported with a separate jack under the oil pan using a 2x4 to spread the load. The jeep is up on very high jack stands so that the assembly will clear the frame. I install the cross member after the bell housing is bolted to the engine.

It keeps the assembly from tipping off the transmission jack much better than the flimsy chain that is provided with the jack.

This is a very good safety innovation. I am too lazy to build something like this so I just take my chances and watch closely. So far in multiple pulls and re-installs i haven't broken any fingers when having to catch the thing as it falls off. 
Stan
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   I'm glad I read through this.

Now I can make a disposable T-case shifter-pin cover. When it gets rusty, I can just toss it for a new Can-Cover.   hahaha

I have been wondering how to giggle loose the pin without lowering the transmission some. Without drilling the big access hole.

And my thoughts were:   to remove set-screw and then the zerk on the end of the pin to install a small bolt to pry on the head to move the pin out far enough to slide first one, then the second shifter off the pin, with out complete removal of the pin. Will this work ? or should i lower the trans down ?

    thanks, Len
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Len,
That is exactly what I did to get my levers out.
 
Micah
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I gather from this thread that the way to reinstall the bell, transmission and transfer case from underneath the CJ is to do it with them all put together. I'm not sure that I can get to the top bolts on the bell housing that way. I just put the bell housing on by itself and it was very hard to reach the top bolts. Has anyone done it piecemeal? I took out the bell housing after taking out the transmission and transfer case (together). I was hoping I could do the same in reverse.
Mike P
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You can if you can figure out a way to get the clutch fork on the throw out. bearing through the little access hole in the top of the bell housing.
Some have done it, but I’m not skilled enough.
I find it much easier to tip the back of the engine down a little and put the top bolts on through the hole in the tunnel as described above.
Stan
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Thanks! I'm thinking now from a seal/gasket standpoint it might be easier to put them all together first.
Mike P
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Great post Stan,

This has been around for awhile but I thought I would add what I learned tonight. 

For those who choose not to remove the bell housing this may help. 

I pulled the tranny on my M38 a few months ago, was good to learn on as the whole floor was out so better access. I did try to do everything as I would on a 2A to learn how best to complete the job. Long story short I had no issues getting it back together. Clutch fork went in easy through the access hole in the bell housing. Today I was putting a tranny back in a 2A and could not get the clutch fork to line up. Worked about an hour with no headway. Stopped and thought it through and the one thing I was doing differently was I had the tranny pulled up to the bell housing and on the M38 I had put the fork on sooner so I removed the bolts and backed the tranny out until I could see light between the bearing and bell housing then I was able to slide the fork on without issue. I went ahead and put the cable on and used a bungee to keep it snug while I slid the tranny back to position. Worked out great, it seems to change the geometry just enough so you can slide the fork past the pivot ball and behind the bearing.  

Hope this is some help to others. 

Mike

Ps.  I had the spring before I put the tranny on the jack in both cases. 
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Great info. Thanks Stan 
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I pulled the tranny and transfer case out of my 2a this week as a unit. My birthday present to myself this year was an actual transmission jack. AT 65 I'm just too old to wiggle out from underneath a vehicle with a tranny balanced on my chest. What a difference that made!  After removing the clutch bell crank, brake and speedo cables I set the jeep up on 4 jack stands and chained the transmission jack to the crossmember. This allowed me to unbolt the transmission from the bell housing, unbolt the crossmember and than tilt everything back a about ten degrees and slide it all back and down as a unit. Then raised it up on the jack and disassembled it right on the jack leaving the crossmember chained on for the re-assembly. I'd post pics but I still haven't figured out what is up with my Mac and picture posting to this site.
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