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Sanity Check, D44 Full Floater
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chasendeer View Drop Down
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Points: 1086 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasendeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2020 at 2:34am
Originally posted by Anvil Anvil wrote:

Originally posted by chasendeer chasendeer wrote:

Anvil 
What are you changing on the hubs?
Jay
If I could source some OEM 5 x 5.5 front hubs, I probably wouldn't do anything.  What I have are a set of crown hubs and they're pretty horrid.  Rough casting and I suspect they're made out of something close to pig iron.  When I went to paint them, it didn't matter how much I scrubbed or wiped them with solvents, you'd never finish with a clean rag.  Always came off dirty.  In my experience, that's not a good sign.  Add to that, the material around the drive flange is pretty light.  It's probably fine.

Anyway, when I was optimizing my spindle, I started with documenting and drawing the hub.  While doing that I figured it'd be an easy part to make and it'd be nice to just make some.  Leave the beef around the drive flange, or better yet, go to an 8 or 10-bolt pattern.  If a fella' is going to have custom axles made anyways, might as well reach for the brass ring, right?

True!! No reason to stop near the top, go all the way!!! Can we say 35 spline??
Jay
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Before you order your shafts!!!

https://www.4wd.com/p/ox-locker-dana-44-35-spline-3-92-up-air-selectable-locker-d44-392-35/_/R-OXLOK-D44-392-35?ppcfon=1&gp=1&ef_id=Cj0KCQjwncT1BRDhARIsAOQF9LkYfbjOo_1j2Zggb7KI_WUzaMxX4SJElIIuWJQZnn5qkS2oSS_Cp_AaAjExEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!7836!3!389350609662!!!u!293946777986!&s_kwcid=AL!{7836}!{3}!389350609662!!!u!293946777986!&ecmp=s:google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwncT1BRDhARIsAOQF9LkYfbjOo_1j2Zggb7KI_WUzaMxX4SJElIIuWJQZnn5qkS2oSS_Cp_AaAjExEALw_wcB


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I'm averting my eyes.
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You know, it just occurred to me that the hardest part of this spindle project will be painting the damn things.  Seems a shame to cover up all the shiny.
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Originally posted by chasendeer chasendeer wrote:


True!! No reason to stop near the top, go all the way!!! Can we say 35 spline??
Jay
I will climb to the highest rungs of mediocrity.
 

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I got a little lost in the three options. Are the small bearing Chevy spindles Jeff worked over for Jay set 45/45 or set 45/47? 

Jeff, if you are making a list of interested people put me down for 2. I will PM you. 


Edited by GrandpasOld50 - 06 May 2020 at 5:31am
'50 3a with f-head motor
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chasendeer View Drop Down
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Originally posted by GrandpasOld50 GrandpasOld50 wrote:

I got a little lost in the three options. Are the small bearing Chevy spindles Jeff worked over for Jay set 45/45 or set 45/47? 

Jeff, if you are making a list of interested people put me down for 2. I will PM you. 

They are 45/47 bearings.
jay
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One thing I should also mention concerning the GM spindles.   If a person is going to use a spacer between the axle housing and spindle like Brennan did, there would be no need to machine the back side of the GM part since you can just cut the appropriate counterbore in the spacer.
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I've been running a set of replacement the crown/omix/whatever bearing hubs for a long time. And one on the front too to replace an OEM unit. No issues. Just in case you don't want to reinvent the wheel.....bearing hub.....LOL
42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

I've been running a set of replacement the crown/omix/whatever bearing hubs for a long time. And one on the front too to replace an OEM unit. No issues. Just in case you don't want to reinvent the wheel.....bearing hub.....LOL

Weren't you having trouble with the drive flanges coming loose or was that only on the front locking hubs?
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Originally posted by Anvil Anvil wrote:

Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

I've been running a set of replacement the crown/omix/whatever bearing hubs for a long time. And one on the front too to replace an OEM unit. No issues. Just in case you don't want to reinvent the wheel.....bearing hub.....LOL

Weren't you having trouble with the drive flanges coming loose or was that only on the front locking hubs?


Only in the front with the Warn locking hubs. I'm pretty certain it isn't a bearing hub issue. I actually think the new aftermarket one in front is better than the OEM one on the other side.....but that could be long vs short side axle or something too. The rear ones, both aftermarket, stay tight ( once I changed to studs, heavy hex huts, chemical help, and proper torque ).


42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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I posted this about 3 months back but it is entirely appropriate here.  I think these ARP bolts are probably as strong as studs for fastening drive flanges/axle flanges.  I'm going to use their bolts for the spindles also.
1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Originally posted by duffer duffer wrote:

I posted this about 3 months back but it is entirely appropriate here.  I think these ARP bolts are probably as strong as studs for fastening drive flanges/axle flanges.  I'm going to use their bolts for the spindles also.



For me, it isn't the bolt that is the weak link. I think it is the material of the locking hub body. It just eventually deforms which makes the bolt loosen. ( Looks like it is a cast pot metal type material on the Warn hubs to me )
42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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[/QUOTE] For me, it isn't the bolt that is the weak link. I think it is the material of the locking hub body. It just eventually deforms which makes the bolt loosen. ( Looks like it is a cast pot metal type material on the Warn hubs to me )[/QUOTE]

I did use studs for my front hubs.  I ended up making them myself.
1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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Originally posted by duffer duffer wrote:


I did use studs for my front hubs.  I ended up making them myself.



Those oldy hubs are nice.

The old Warn hub design was better in a lot of ways then the new design. Now the fasteners are basically hidden under the dial flange. You can't really get a socket on them without removing the dial. Very annoying.
42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.



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I ended up making my own locknuts.  Those Dexter locknuts were so balled up and so frikken' hard, that it just wasn't worth messing with them.  So, with that knowledge in hand, if I were to make these spindles again (SET47 inner and outer, 1.75-12 pitch snout & spindle nuts), I'd change the snout to a 1.75-16 pitch.  It is more & less & better all at the same time.

I sized the spindle nuts for a commonly available 2.25" spindle nut socket.
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Nice!
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2X!
1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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