Sanity Check, D44 Full Floater

Has anyone checked out the Roxor 44 spindle?

Metcalf wrote: So the important question, what is a 30 spline capable spindle worth to people?

That's cool Don. I have some dimensions here. I'd like to compare them to yours. This is what I get for a stock D-30 hub (disk brake version):







... my stock hub has .057 meat between the bore and the bottom of the key.

Edit: Seal diameter is 2.3125

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Here would be a modified version with a 1.3 hole, bearing and a shallow key





.... this one still has .057 meat between keyway and 1.3 bore. There is .240 wall thickness at the inner bearing and .169 wall thickness for the outer bearing.

Edit: Seal diameter is 2.3125

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This one is a modified spindle that used two SET 47 bearings.



.... .240 wall thickness for both bearings.

Edited by jpet - 30 Mar. 2020 at 3:14pm

I'm pretty sure that the width of both sets are the same. I know that both cones are .78 wide.

Should this spindle be derived from a d30 spindle or d25?


I think this is 12L14:



I can make these on the CNC if we agree upon the design(s). I can't do them for nothing because, I don't own the machine but I could probably do them for maybe $100 each. I have to talk to the owner. If I'm just making a few for the participants in this thread that's different. That being said, I don't want to get into anybody's kitchen, so if someone else wants to make them, I'll take 4

jpet wrote: I'm pretty sure that the width of both sets are the same. I know that both cones are .78 wide. Should this spindle be derived from a d30 spindle or d25? I can make these on the CNC if we agree upon the design(s). I can't do them for nothing because, I don't own the machine but I could probably do them for maybe $100 each. I have to talk to the owner. If I'm just making a few for the participants in this thread that's different. That being said, I don't want to get into anybody's kitchen, so if someone else wants to make them, I'll take 4

Here you go.  I don't normally print drawings that I use for myself.  This is modified for my specific needs.  The front is normal D30 dims that I took off an OEM spindle.  The rest is modified as mentioned.  I made no provision for an axle seal since I'm using flanged axles and will lube the bearings with gear lube as is normal for generic truck full floaters and not grease like a front axle.  My seal between the housing and the spindle is provided by twin o-rings and not a paper gasket.  I added .5" to the width of the mounting flange give me an extra inch of track width and better match my D30 front.

Edited by Anvil - 30 Mar. 2020 at 6:43pm

Anvil wrote: Here you go.  I don't normally print drawings that I use for myself.  This is modified for my specific needs.  The front is normal D30 dims that I took off an OEM spindle.  The rest is modified as mentioned.  I made no provision for an axle seal since I'm using flanged axles and will lube the bearings with gear lube and not grease as is normal for generic truck full floaters.  My seal between the housing and the spindle is provided by twin o-rings and not a paper gasket.  I added .5" to the width of the mounting flange give me an extra inch of track width and better match my D30 front. Anyway, feel free to use what you can.  The one thing that did jump out to me on your drawing is that you have the snout thread as 1.625 x 18 pitch.  Mine OEM spindle measures 1.625 x 16 pitch.

Anvil wrote: Metcalf wrote: Just a quick note. I tried running gear oil lubrication on mine ( with flanged floater axles ). I could never get it to stop leaking. The gear lube, especially when hot, was just too thin in viscosity for the stock seal package I think. The spindle seal leaked. The seam at the axle flange leaked....and I tried 3-4 different materials for that gasket. It could have been my bad luck, but when I changed to grease all the leaking issues went away. I added a seals-it style seal in the spindle/spacer adapter to keep things apart. Another note. I had a heck of a time keeping the fasteners tight between the axle and the flange ( especially with lots of rear locker use). I tried bolts, various lock washers combos, etc. The only thing that ended up working long term was changing to studs. I lightly bottomed the studs in the bearing hub with loctite. The used a heavy hex nut and not water. More locktite. Torqued enough to keep things in the elastic range. That has seemed to hold for years without issue. Excellent info.  I think I have the seal at the axle flange sorted with the twin o-rings.  I've run that same setup with high PSI air and oil without a problem in the past, but man, you never know.  I'll check the housing axle bore for roundness just in case. The other thing I was thinking about was making sure there was not a pressurized atmosphere in the housing and a oil drain back/relief hole in the bottom of the spindle.  I've had plenty of truck full floaters apart and they don't run anything special seal wise.  I was looking into a dual lip seal just to see though.  On your axle flange to housing, did you check for flatness on the hub body?  Just thinking out loud.  Could just be that the D30 hub is just too whimpy and distorts?  I have a 70 J4000 Gladiator D44 closed knuckle front with 5 x 5.5 hubs on it.  I'll look at them and see what they're all about.