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Spare & jerry can rack |
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Rick G 
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Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1260 |
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 Posted: 16 June 2017 at 10:41pm |
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All these fabrications are kinda making me want to put my draw bar back on and join the competition
 All are looking great! |
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47heater
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Joined: 17 July 2014 Location: Lee's Summit,MO Status: Offline Points: 513 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2017 at 2:07am |
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Another Jpet designed spare & jerry can rack trail ready.
  
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RICKG
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Joined: 08 Jan. 2015 Location: so idaho Status: Offline Points: 1936 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2017 at 12:05pm |
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Diggin Rat Fink!!
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I never met a mule I didn't like!
MC51986 "OD MULE" DOD 01-52 '50 CJ3A "Bucksnort". Keep 'em Rollin' |
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tumbleweed
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Joined: 31 Jan. 2011 Location: Bedford, Texas Status: Offline Points: 555 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2017 at 12:59pm |
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Yea me too Rick. Not a lot of new guys remember RF. Guess we are showing our age - but what the heck - it looks cool.
Who has the plans for this mount? I need one as I plan to make Oilly's skinny trail run next year. Tumbleweed
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49 CJ3A - Smokey
53 Willys Wagon - Wylie |
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mickeykelley
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Joined: 26 May 2016 Location: Republic of Texas Status: Offline Points: 331 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2017 at 11:20pm |
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Love to get a set too. Can a trail jack attachment be added?
Edited by mickeykelley - 05 Aug. 2017 at 9:44am |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4124 |
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Posted: 06 Aug. 2017 at 12:33am |
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If you have a welder, you can add anything you want.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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bigdaddy13
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Joined: 11 Oct. 2016 Location: socal Status: Offline Points: 205 |
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Posted: 11 Oct. 2017 at 4:22pm |
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Here's my attempt tacked up for fitment 
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bigdaddy13
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Joined: 11 Oct. 2016 Location: socal Status: Offline Points: 205 |
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Posted: 11 Oct. 2017 at 4:26pm |
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I have it perpendicular to the floor and bolted between the tailgate/bedside latches  |
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smfulle
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Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 5389 |
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Posted: 11 Oct. 2017 at 4:29pm |
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Looks like you made yours a bit taller than mine. That might be an even better way to do if. You can put a bolt clear through the channel with a nut on the other side rather than tapping threads into the side plate. Easier to repair if you strip some threads.
Looking good.
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bigdaddy13
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Joined: 11 Oct. 2016 Location: socal Status: Offline Points: 205 |
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 7:49am |
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Thanks for the input Stan. Can you explain a bit further the "channel" you mention? I have bolts planned through the draw bar and bolts going through the tailgate latching system. Where else would you recommend tying in?
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smfulle
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Posted: 12 Oct. 2017 at 9:54am |
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Looks like all my pics that I had hosted on Photobucket have gone away so I can't refer to them, but my rack is pretty much the same as yours with the attachment points on the draw bar and at the tailgate tabs.
The difference on mine is that where you have a full piece of tubing on the top vertical next to the tailgate tab where you can drill a hole through both sides for a long bolt to go through with a nut on the back, I have a flat piece of bar that I drilled and tapped with threads. I had to do it that way because where my rack meets that tailgate tab is right where the top crossbar comes across and there is no way for me to get a nut on the back of the bolt.  |
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bigdaddy13
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Joined: 11 Oct. 2016 Location: socal Status: Offline Points: 205 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 12:52am |
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ahh, i see, i understand now. Yes, through-bolting through the vertical piece is what had in mind so that i could tie the rack, tailgate and tub together. Thanks!
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bigdaddy13
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Joined: 11 Oct. 2016 Location: socal Status: Offline Points: 205 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 12:57am |
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Possible additions to the rack and the main reason for a bit more height 
Edited by bigdaddy13 - 13 Oct. 2017 at 1:53pm |
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tumbleweed
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Joined: 31 Jan. 2011 Location: Bedford, Texas Status: Offline Points: 555 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 8:28am |
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Looks like a jack would fit nice on the top of the rack.
I like it! |
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49 CJ3A - Smokey
53 Willys Wagon - Wylie |
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Stev
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Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 1979 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 11:10am |
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Some thoughts and questions on these mounts:
So how does the rear of the soft tops work with these designs? Is there enough space between the top back of the rack and the tail gate to fit the top and straps down to the footman loops? One thing that might be done to help with the soft top installation would be to add footman loops to the top bar or weld a section of 1/4" rod along the top edge of the rack that is supported a 1/4" stand offs in a few spots. The soft top straps could be attached to this rod.
I keep looking at these designs and wondering why the bottom attachment points don't use the existing holds in the draw bars? The later draw bars with the holes on the vertical of the bottom angle for the Monroe 3pt Links arms could be used without having bolts sticking out of the bottom of the draw bar. Adding a jack mount would be nice - again need to design around the soft top. Another idea for the tire mount could be enhanced with a bottom support / shelf. The MB had a shelf support and the Mutt (M151) used the bumperetts under the tire as a support. The shelf allows the tire weight to sit lower on the rack. The issue with a shelf is if you change tire sizes the shelf high might need to be adjusted. |
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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smfulle
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Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 5389 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 11:42am |
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TOPS! We don't need no stinking tops!! But seriously, I've never had a top and don't really plan on getting one so this never even entered my mind when I was building this. I think Bigdaddy's design with the top crossbar a little bit higher than mine makes access to the footman loops easier in between the bars, but the tire and can would probably have to come off to get at them easily.
Sometimes you got to go with what you have. I didn't want to drill new holes in my draw bar, so I use some shelf type angle irons to bolt mine to the draw bar. I used carriage bolts with the heads down so that there would be a lower profile sticking out the bottom of the draw bar that didn't have a square shoulder to hang on any rock edges that I will and do bang on the draw bar. I put lock washers and blue Locktite on the threads so that they wouldn't rattle out on the trail. Here's a picture where I have the angle iron installed, but the accessories are still mashed from my crash last summer. Some other guys have come up with attachment systems that I like better, but this works fine and it's done.  |
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Stev
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Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 1979 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 1:46pm |
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Stan,
Your is sort of the prototype. The welds you did look like they held up great (paint too) - on the trail and in the rollover accident. I like the carriage bolt idea and using the existing holes in the draw bar. I would guess you might be able to salvage the can holder based on you newly acquired body man skills. The tire mount looks like it might be to a bigger challenge. PS - How did you double thickness skid plate hold up now that you have had a chance to get out on the trail with it?
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Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored |
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bigdaddy13
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Joined: 11 Oct. 2016 Location: socal Status: Offline Points: 205 |
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Posted: 13 Oct. 2017 at 2:06pm |
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Hi Stev, here's my thoughts back at'cha: Soft tops: i did have an eye on mine to allow space to attach somehow on the rear tailgate via footman loop or to the top of the rack but it'll probably be a bit further down the road. I like your footman loop idea's. Bottom attachment: great point. I may re-design mine. I had already began lamenting removing from the departure angle by having bolt heads sticking down, though i had considered bolt head protectors. https://www.rockhard4x4.com/product_p/rh-6000-sw-496.htm I'll check out the idea of a shelf, not sure if i have seen that. I think i might build a bot of a tube steel cage for my jerry can(s) though that can take a moderate rock/traffic hit to protect my nato can and its contents. |
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Stev wrote: