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Spicer model 60 Power-Lok spacer block?

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    Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 9:27am
I’ve torn down and cleaned up the the used Power-Lok I bought on this forum and I’m happy to say that it looks excellent! No sign of rust anywhere and no appreciable wear. I found a good Dana 44 and bought a pair of 19 spline axle shafts. The only thing I seem to be missing is the center roll pin spacer.  My cross pins have the holes, but no sign of a spacer ever having been in them. I see references to the spacer online, and on Yukon’s site, but I haven’t found a vendor that actually lists one for sale. Any ideas? Is this something I can make out of a piece of drill rod? My thought would be to just match the length of the spacer in the open diff in the Dana 44. Is this a roll pin design to get a friction fit? Or could it be a clearance fit like the spacer in the open diff?
BD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 11:58am
So maybe I’m using the wrong search terms for this? I do find listings for a Spicer 60 “floater roll pin”.  This is not what the Spicer manual calls it, but I don’t see any other roll pins in the Power-Lok, so maybe this is what I need?
BD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 1:11pm
  I think maybe you are. I’m not real familiar with the power-lock, but I think you’re talking about the spacer that rides between the inner ends of the axle shafts? In the stock open rear-end, it sits a’straddle of the differential pinion (spider) gear shaft. The only “roll pin” in the stock rear is the one that holds that pinion shaft in place. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 5:13pm
Model 60?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 5:41pm
The “center block spacer” is required for all tapered type rear axle shaft assemblies so that you can adjust the wheel bearings.
For D44 Powr Lok you need GM-273703 roll pin. 
And the Jeep center block part # is 912637.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 7:32pm
Thanks Oldtime, I don't find a source when I search GM 273703 . The Yukon pin is listed as GM 33410. Do you know a vendor for this?  I see a variety of pins, but not much in the way of description of what they really are, (length, diameter). Is this pin a friction fit in the hole or a clearance fit?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 8:32pm
The Powr Lok pinion mate center block functions identical to the center block of an open differential.
It is positioned in between the two pinion mate cross shafts.
And functions to keep the axle ends “spaced” apart.
Many Powr Lok cross shafts are not even drilled to accept a center block.
Because they are not used on free floating, nor on flanged type axle assemblies.
I have 8 Powr Loks but only one tapered axle assembly requires the center block.
The Powr Lok center block consists of two  halves that are joined together by a single spring steel roll pin. 
I don’t have access to the dimensions.
The common spring pin is roughly 1/8” diameter by 1” OAL.
The OAL of the two piece center block is the same as a standard open differential center block.
I believe a suitable and serviceable center block would be easy to replicate as it is not a high precision part.
The center block halves are shaped much like a top hat.
They look very similar to the spacers used inside the Ross drag link. 
Of mild steel and are a very loose fit inside the cross shafts.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 8:57pm
So if I did find one, I'd have to tear down the power-Lok again to install it? Oh well, I just torqued it back together with new plates this morning.  I haven't found anything online that looks like two top hats joined in the center. I was thinking it would be simpler. The holes through my cross shafts are +/- .420", well under the diameter of the center spacer in an open Diff.  You don't happen to have a photo of the correct part by any chance? I have the Spicer manual in which they mention that it is needed for "semi-floating" axle shafts, but no photo.

BD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flatfender47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2020 at 8:32pm
These were sold a couple years ago; but it's what you're looking for.
If your cross shafts are drilled with the holes, then no disassembly required.
Use heavy grease to hold them to the cross shafts.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Nov. 2020 at 6:32pm
So I found a "power lock button kit" made by Yukon which looks like the picture flatfender47 posted and ordered it online from Morris 4x4. Unfortunately when I got my email confirmation for this order it had somehow changed into a "differential air lock rocker switch" which suspiciously has the exact same part number, without the prefix, and was billed at exactly the same price.  So Now I guess I wait until it gets here and see what is actually in the box.  I am getting used to this "little hiccup" syndrome that somehow always manages to make something I think I could complete in a couple of hours into something that sits on the work bench for a couple of weeks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov. 2020 at 5:11pm
New issue. A power lock button showed up on the Fedex truck yesterday. I think it's the one I ordered from Mechanics Surplus as a backup, but I can't be certain as there was no invoice, packing list or return address on the envelope. Just the Yukon button kit in a Yukon ziplock, inside a padded envelope with my address on it.  
The issue is this: I put the short shaft in a padded vise to hold the carrier while I set the button which is held together by a tight roll pin. This would have been more easily done before I put the carrier back together for sure. Luckily the roll pin is the same size as an AR15 roll pin so I had a roll pin driver and punch that fit. Unfortunately when I flipped the carrier over on the shaft to check the other size, the shaft would not go in, After a a careful inspection, and a few choice words, I determined that the two sets of splines on the side gears where not perfectly aligned on that side. Nothing I tried could get them aligned so I backed off the power lock carrier bolts which allowed everything to loosen up and then put the long axle in on top while I torqued the carrier bolts back together.  The bad news is that with the carrier torqued back together both axle shafts are bound up and I can't pull the thing apart.  There must be a sequence or a trick to getting this right so that I won't have a big fight putting the shafts in once the ring and pinion are set.
I'm looking for advice at this point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote flatfender47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov. 2020 at 5:44pm
The way I've done this is while tightening case halves to spec, tap on the axle shafts (well, really a couple of good raps) side to side on the axles to move them around. Continue to torque down checking to make sure you can slide the axles freely. It may take several raps and attempts to get them just right. I have a couple of cut off axle stubs to do this with. Copied that from a shop that did mine the first time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov. 2020 at 6:14pm
Aha, sounds like I'm going to slack off the bolts and re-torque them one more time. Unfortunately I don't have any other 19 spline shafts so I'll have to use the ones I'm installing. As this will be the third time these bolts have been torqued, (at the minimum), do you think it's time for new bolts?
BD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov. 2020 at 7:25pm
Bolts are not an issue. 
Use them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec. 2020 at 9:17pm
Thanks for the advice and help with this. I got the Power-Lok back together last weekend and the ring gear on. With a little luck I'll get the new bearings on and the pinion back in this weekend so I can start into getting a pattern.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec. 2020 at 6:51pm
So I've come up with another question, Ring gear bolt torque in the Power-Lock.  The Willys service manual says 55 ft/lb, (I'm assuming this references the original ring gear bolts, don't now how hard they were?). The Power-Lok service manual says if it's a Dana Axle, and Dana bolts, torque them to between 100 and 120 ft/lbs, (this seems like an awful lot for a 3/8" bolt even if it is grade 9),  While the Dana info on the "modern style" 3/8-24 ring gear bolts says 80-85 ft/lbs. The bolts I have are Dana QU40209, the new style with the little "teeth" under the bolt head.
Anyone have an  experienced opinion on this?
BD
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