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76291 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21 Sep. 2021 at 6:29pm
How does this tube, come off of this shaft?
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dasvis View Drop Down
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Points: 1544 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2021 at 6:37pm
The bearing in the top presses out.  In theory......
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

The bearing in the top presses out.  In theory......

Yeah, not even close.  I could heat around that bearing.
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Don’t use heat to remove the bearing.
Shaft will easily slide past the column bearing.
Remove steer wheel nut,
Remove tube clamp on top of Ross box.
Slide column tube upward off the shaft.
Column bearing is easily removed after the shaft is out via a long wood dowel or something similar.


Edited by oldtime - 21 Sep. 2021 at 7:29pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Don’t use heat to remove the bearing.
Shaft will easily slide past the column bearing.
Remove steer wheel nut,
Remove tube clamp on top of Ross box.
Slide column tube upward off the shaft.
Column bearing is easily removed after the shaft is out via a long wood dowel or something similar.

All shaft does is twist.  Its not coming out past the bearing.
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Fasten a chain clamp around the tube and drive tube upward off the Ross box. 

Another method would be to take the Ross box apart and remove the spiral cam portion of the column shaft from out of the Ross box.
In other words take the Ross box off the bottom end of column so you can get directly at the bottom of the column tube.
After that ….
You will need to drive the top of the shaft down into the column.
More specifically you will re-attach the steering wheel nut  and drive the shaft into the tube to free it up.



Edited by oldtime - 21 Sep. 2021 at 8:02pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Box is all apart already.  I have an hour into just trying this.  I tried whacking it pretty good but wasnt sure if I was missing something else inside the tube.

I'll apply a little more force and get it tomorrow.
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Then grab the outer tube firmly and gently at first slam the worm end of shaft down on a block of wood.
If you slam it hard enough the column bearing will either slide out of tube or it may break apart and then you can remove the bearing in pieces.
Probably much more safe than hammering down on the shaft nut.
Normally it’s not that tight or frozen together.


Edited by oldtime - 21 Sep. 2021 at 8:29pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Well, I must not be understanding how this bearing is sitting in there.  I've been whacking it the nut end with a 3# sledge and it aint moving.  How can I slam the worm end down on wood, its not going up through the tube, the collar is still attached.  What am I missing?
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Ok my bad. I forgot that the 3 bolt hole flange is still on there.
Whacking the steer wheel nut is your only option then.
The shaft should slide right through the inside sleeve of the bearing 
Destroy the tube and bearing if you have to the shaft is far too valuable if in good shape.


Edited by oldtime - 21 Sep. 2021 at 9:45pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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You need a service manual ….
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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As mentioned,  it "should" slide out.  Could there be some rust build up both on the bearing cup and the shaft - enough to keep it from sliding?


I've had a real bad track record when I start using a hammer.  I wonder if the shaft could be clamped and then the outer tube turned (while pulling) so that the rusted surfaces could grind each other down a bit.  Just spit-balling.
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I have the manual. It looked as I thought but never expected it to be this difficult. I'll heat the bearing tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll torch the tube. 
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Originally posted by Rus Curtis Rus Curtis wrote:

As mentioned,  it "should" slide out.  Could there be some rust build up both on the bearing cup and the shaft - enough to keep it from sliding?


I've had a real bad track record when I start using a hammer.  I wonder if the shaft could be clamped and then the outer tube turned (while pulling) so that the rusted surfaces could grind each other down a bit.  Just spit-balling.

Everything turns nicely. I tried pulling but to no avail. I'll give that another go too.  I think a hot bearing is what it will take though.
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Torch mid portion of the bearing. It’s shot anyway and tube may be hard to find one the right length.
Bearing is  .060 gauge or a little thinner where it fits into the inside of the tube and also where it wraps around the shaft.
FWIW I never seen one that was froze up this bad.


Edited by oldtime - 21 Sep. 2021 at 10:28pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Points: 1544 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2021 at 11:22pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

FWIW I never seen one that was froze up this bad.

Well, you should have come over to my house when I was attempting to take it apart. 
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Mine was rammed down the shaft. Old pappys broom handle technique worked a treat
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Maybe you could rig up a 3 jaw puller and push the shaft out of the bearing with that.
Attach puller to 3 long rods going down to the Ross upper bearing cap. Hollow shaft will need a well fitted bushing so you don’t damage the steering wheel threads.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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