Steering Knuckle Seals |
Post Reply |
Author | |
sean
Moderator Group Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7388 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 28 Dec. 2006 at 3:03pm |
Original style steering knuckle seals.
The manuals (3 of them) are confusing and contradictory as to part numbers, thus the "?". A-814 : CONTAINER, steering knuckle oil seal (half) The same part is used upper and lower on the knuckle. Each half is 2-pieces which mate together via dowels pins. They are cast pot-metal. A-818 : STRIP, oil seal pressure A hard rubber strip, scalloped on one side. A-819 : OIL SEAL, steering knuckle, half (felt) <- from MB parts list .... or 640144 : OIL SEAL, steering knuckle, half (cork) <- from CJ2A parts list MB & GPW (shown here) used felt seals, which were changed to cork on the 2A. This is a very dense, hard felt, and it's impregnated with something, but I don't know what. The pressure strip fits inside the groove of the container. The strip is upside down in these photos, the smooth side should face the felt seal, the scalloped side should face the metal casting.. then the felt/cork seal itself goes in over that Inner and outer views Sean Edited by sean - 10 May 2007 at 11:45am |
|
sean
Moderator Group Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7388 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Later (3rd. generation) seals. These were an NOS set, still coated in cosmoline. Don't know exactly when these were phased in, but it was after CJ2A production, and prior to 1961.
WO part #805432 - Knuckle seal assembly (1/2) - requires 2 per axle, consists of A-814 container, 800068 spring and 805428 rubber seal. There is a paper gasket between the 2 pieces making up A-814 container. None of these pieces is listed separately. The dowel pins holding the pieces together are swaged, so they will not come apart unless you grind off the top of the dowel pin swage. I have plated these pieces. They were originally plain grey pot metal just like the originals in the first photos. Sean |
|
sean
Moderator Group Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7388 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
LGMATT
Member Joined: 19 June 2021 Location: Isanti MN Status: Offline Points: 10 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
OK, I have the front axle back together and about to put on the knuckle seal. Now confused. The seals I received from the parts store are round "doughnut" shaped and similar to the seals shown in the post by sean. Impossible to get the felt and hard rubber thing over the knuckle. My old seals are similar to the seals in the explanation. I don't really want to take the knuckles off again. Two part question, 1) where can I get the semi circle seals for the aluminum or pot metal type of seal? 2) are there good and recommended videos on how to work on the axle. There are a lot of well meaning people out there making videos that are confusing and incomplete. It would be nice if there was a sanctioned "go to" complete video set. Almost done and off the the next thing but stuck here one this problem.
|
|
Lyn
|
|
SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3192 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The seals that are supplied by most vendors are split in one place so that it can be offset to fit over the axle and then reformed to a circle again and then positioned at the top of the knuckle. The felt is normally one piece and can be cut where the cut would face the top of the knuckle.
To my knowledge there are no vendors who supply the potmetal or aluminum style of seal. If the splits are positioned at the top of the knuckle they will not leak. It is best if the bolts that go through the metal flange halves are tightened evenly and gradually while making sure that the back of the seal element fits correctly into the recess of the knuckle face. |
|
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
|
oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4186 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
If you have late type seals you will either remove the knuckles and stretch the felt over the hemisphere or you must cut the felt at a diagonal on top end.
The rubber split ring should not be an issue. These will be very hard to locate maybe try Debella.
Edited by oldtime - 15 Sep. 2022 at 11:28am |
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
|
Rus Curtis
Member Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
My take on the seals. Unless you can find the older style, i.e. maybe old stock from a military vendor, most replacements are going to be what you have. Look close at the rubber/metal seal and you'll find a seam that you can open (I forget now but you may have to use a knife or razor blade to separate the rubber joint). That allows you to spread the seal apart enough to slip over the axle then you can move it up to the knuckle. Dry fit it to ensure you don't put it on backwards (I positioned that seam near the top). Make a diagonal cut through the felt (ensure you position that cut up near the top of the knuckle but my preference was to offset from the seal). Then you can use the plates to secure it.
I found that the plates supplied with the replacement seals were too soft and would deform while tightening - before the seal was even seated in its groove. I used the old plates as they were stiff enough to seat the seal in its groove.
Edited by Rus Curtis - 15 Sep. 2022 at 11:23am |
|
Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
|
Ron D
Member Joined: 27 Oct. 2019 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 1446 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Brent Mullins Jeep Parts advertising these on fleabay: |
|
1951 M38
1951 M100 |
|
LGMATT
Member Joined: 19 June 2021 Location: Isanti MN Status: Offline Points: 10 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Cutting was going to be my solution unless I heard a hard "No don't do that". So I will do that, Thanks. Those plates do look a little soft. We will see how that goes. Also, thanks for the additional parts sources.
|
|
Lyn
|
|
oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4186 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
As you can see the oem gaskets in my pic are cut at the top.
|
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |