Forum Home Forum Home > The CJ2A Parts Project > Parts List > Front Axle
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Steering Knuckle Seals
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Steering Knuckle Seals

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
sean View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group

Sponsor Member

Joined: 20 July 2005
Location: North Idaho
Status: Offline
Points: 7388
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Steering Knuckle Seals
    Posted: 28 Dec. 2006 at 3:03pm
Original style steering knuckle seals.

    

The manuals (3 of them) are confusing and contradictory as to part numbers, thus the "?".

A-814 :  CONTAINER, steering knuckle oil seal (half)

     The same part is used upper and lower on the knuckle.  Each half is 2-pieces which mate together via dowels pins.  They are cast pot-metal.

A-818 :  STRIP, oil seal pressure

     A hard rubber strip, scalloped on one side.

A-819 : OIL SEAL, steering knuckle, half (felt) <- from MB parts list
       .... or
640144 : OIL SEAL, steering knuckle, half (cork) <- from CJ2A parts list

MB & GPW (shown here) used felt seals, which were changed to cork on the 2A.  This is a very dense, hard felt, and it's impregnated with something, but I don't know what.

The pressure strip fits inside the groove of the container.  The strip is upside down in these photos, the smooth side should face the felt seal, the scalloped side should face the metal casting..

    

then the felt/cork seal itself goes in over that

     

Inner and outer views

    

Sean






Edited by sean - 10 May 2007 at 11:45am
Back to Top
sean View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group

Sponsor Member

Joined: 20 July 2005
Location: North Idaho
Status: Offline
Points: 7388
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 May 2007 at 11:56am
Later (3rd. generation) seals.  These were an NOS set, still coated in cosmoline.  Don't know exactly when these were phased in, but it was after CJ2A production, and prior to 1961.

WO part #805432 - Knuckle seal assembly (1/2)  - requires 2 per axle, consists of A-814 container, 800068 spring and 805428 rubber seal.

    

There is a paper gasket between the 2 pieces making up A-814 container.  None of these pieces is listed separately.  The dowel pins holding the pieces together are swaged, so they will not come apart unless you grind off the top of the dowel pin swage.

I have plated these pieces.  They were originally plain grey pot metal just like the originals in the first photos.

Sean

Back to Top
sean View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group

Sponsor Member

Joined: 20 July 2005
Location: North Idaho
Status: Offline
Points: 7388
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 June 2007 at 11:34pm
Found this unused set of new style, still in the Willys package:

        

Sales receipt is dated 2-3-58.  Cost $3.25.

The felt gasket is twice as thick (or more) than current repros.


Edited by sean - 04 June 2007 at 11:35pm
Back to Top
LGMATT View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 19 June 2021
Location: Isanti MN
Status: Offline
Points: 10
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LGMATT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2022 at 10:56am
OK, I have the front axle back together and about to put on the knuckle seal.  Now confused.  The seals I received from the parts store are round "doughnut" shaped and similar to the seals shown in the post by sean.   Impossible to get the felt and hard rubber thing over the knuckle.  My old seals are similar to the seals in the explanation.  I don't really want to take the knuckles off again.

Two part question, 1) where can I get the semi circle seals for the aluminum or pot metal type of seal? 

2) are there good and recommended videos on how to work on the axle.  There are a lot of well meaning people out there making videos that are confusing and incomplete.  It would be nice if there was a sanctioned "go to" complete video set.

Almost done and off the the next thing but stuck here one this problem.
Lyn
Back to Top
SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 3

Joined: 22 Jan. 2016
Location: S.E. Kansas
Status: Offline
Points: 2883
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2022 at 11:10am
The seals that are supplied by most vendors are split in one place so that it can be offset to fit over the axle and then reformed to a circle again and then positioned at the top of the knuckle. The felt is normally one piece and can be cut where the cut would face the top of the knuckle.

To my knowledge there are no vendors who supply the potmetal or aluminum style of seal.

If the splits are positioned at the top of the knuckle they will not leak. It is best if the bolts that go through the metal flange halves are tightened evenly and gradually while making sure that the back of the seal element fits correctly into the recess of the knuckle face.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brake, M-38 frame, MDJuan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer (ret.)
U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it.



Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 3316
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2022 at 11:14am
If you have late type seals you will either remove the knuckles and stretch the felt over the hemisphere  or you must cut the felt at a diagonal on top end.
The rubber split ring should not be an issue.
These will be very hard to locate maybe try Debella.


Edited by oldtime - 15 Sep. 2022 at 11:28am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
Rus Curtis View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 25 Mar. 2010
Location: Alabama
Status: Offline
Points: 1615
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2022 at 11:21am
My take on the seals.  Unless you can find the older style, i.e. maybe old stock from a military vendor, most replacements are going to be what you have.  Look close at the rubber/metal seal and you'll find a seam that you can open (I forget now but you may have to use a knife or razor blade to separate the rubber joint).  That allows you to spread the seal apart enough to slip over the axle then you can move it up to the knuckle.  Dry fit it to ensure you don't put it on backwards (I positioned that seam near the top).  Make a diagonal cut through the felt (ensure you position that cut up near the top of the knuckle but my preference was to offset from the seal).  Then you can use the plates to secure it.

I found that the plates supplied with the replacement seals were too soft and would deform while tightening - before the seal was even seated in its groove.  I used the old plates as they were stiff enough to seat the seal in its groove.


Edited by Rus Curtis - 15 Sep. 2022 at 11:23am
Rus Curtis
Alabama
1954 CJ3B
Bantam T3-C
Back to Top
Ron D View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 27 Oct. 2019
Location: South Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 486
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2022 at 11:39am
1951 M38
1951 M100
Back to Top
LGMATT View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 19 June 2021
Location: Isanti MN
Status: Offline
Points: 10
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LGMATT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2022 at 11:49am
Cutting was going to be my solution unless I heard a hard "No don't do that".  So I will do that, Thanks.

Those plates do look a little soft.  We will see how that goes.

Also, thanks for the additional parts sources. 
Lyn
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 3316
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2022 at 12:11pm
As you can see the oem gaskets in my pic are cut at the top.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.05
Copyright ©2001-2022 Web Wiz Ltd.