T90/D18 Rebuild |
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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 752 |
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Having now done (and redone) my trans AND my T/C, I have found that NONE of the supposedly "go to" videos to rebuild these units is actually complete. Every one I have yet seen skips steps or parts or doesn't show you the proper measurements. The Novak instructions mention the endplay, but don't highlight it, show any pictures, or suggest procedures as to how to measure that endplay. Considering how important it is, I would have hoped for more detail on that process from Novak.
In the end, before you rebuild the Trans or T?C watch ALL available videos, read the instructions (such as they are) and of course.... ask LOTS of questions of the great folks here on the board.
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Speedy
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Status: Offline Points: 531 |
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Pjensen
great pictorial. Cal.bar, exactly what you said is the proper way to approach every rebuild. if I can (I should be able) I will make an update video to link in mine to save others down the road. anyone suggest any revisions, I think this one above is huge. I will try.
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- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder |
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wadoyado
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 29 Sep. 2016 Location: Mi. Status: Offline Points: 728 |
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"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Overland
Member Joined: 22 Feb. 2016 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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Didn't even know there was supposed to be a skid plate there. Will PM, thanks. --------------------------------------- Awesome info all around, keep it up! |
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Mike S
Member Joined: 20 May 2006 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 2318 |
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Oh yeah! I have one here that is functional. but not pretty. Yours for the shipping cost. |
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'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear Lock-Right locker 11" drum brakes Dual master cylinder T90C Transmission 16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels Cooper STT Pro tires |
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Overland
Member Joined: 22 Feb. 2016 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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So I'm in the middle of disassembly. There is no oil collector.
Is this piece non-critical? Why would a person remove it? |
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clayvt
Member Joined: 25 July 2012 Location: New Mexico Status: Offline Points: 176 |
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for what it's worth, I followed "metalshaper" on YouTube for the rebuilding of my t90 and d18. He never mentioned endplay in the tranny and as of now w/ 500 miles on it I haven't had any issues.
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4760 |
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The "oil collector" comes into play with an open front bearing when running long grades uphill where the oil level runs back, low at the front. It's perfectly fine to remove it with a permanently sealed front bearing, or if you only run downhill or level with an open bearing.... #sarcasm
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 752 |
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Congratulations, you got lucky. Without measuring the endplay, it's just a crapshoot if the trans will fall out of second or not. |
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Overland
Member Joined: 22 Feb. 2016 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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So teardown is complete... except for the reverse idler shaft and gear. I can't get it to budge with a drift and hammer, and I can't figure a way to press it out. (maybe someone smarter than me has a way) I believe you want to force the shaft OUT of the case, NOT IN, due to the end of the shaft with the notch having a slightly larger diameter.
Can I leave it in during the cleaning/degreasing process? I'd hate to have the gear seize on the shaft. If it has to come out, what's my next step? I assume it would be to bust out the oxy/ace torch (or the propane torch?) and heat the area on the outside of the case around the shaft. I don't want to compromise the case obviously. Do I make it cherry red like I would on a bolt? Thanks |
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Online Points: 3183 |
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Not cherry red! The Problem is that the shaft can't be hit with a drift with a straight on approach. The gear should be out of the case to make a thorough cleaning job and to make sure their is no grit in the interior of the gear. There is a bronze bushing in the gear that could be damaged by too much heat in the vicinity of the gear. Once you can get the shaft to move, it will come out. I have in the past used a flat face long drift to budge it with some success, but if that fails and you have a press, you can put a flat bar that is long enough to clear the top of the case and support it on the end. Put a piece of metal smaller than the diameter of the shaft between the bar and the shaft and press on the bar. Make sure that the other end of the shaft can travel out of the case when you set your press job up. It shouldn't take a lot of pressure to push the shaft out of the case.
When you put the gear and shaft back in the case, make sure to orient the shaft like it was when it came out so the lock plate will fit properly. Hope this helps. Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 24 June 2017 at 8:24pm |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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Overland
Member Joined: 22 Feb. 2016 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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Thanks for the advice SE_Kansas.
I finally completed disassembly. I tried everything I could think of to get the reverse idler shaft out. Heat up the case a bit and pound, I tried a crossbar setup with my press and was afraid my drift and crowbar would snap. They were bending quite a bit without the shaft moving. Ultimately I probably committed a mortal sin but I got it out. I heated the outside of the case around the shaft and pressed the shaft into the case about an inch, then I heated the inner portion holding the shaft and pressed the shaft the rest of the way out. I know this is backwards but I couldn't find a way to do it any other way. The inner bushing of the reverse idler gear looks a little worse for the wear, but the holes themselves in the case appear fine (to the eye). I got the calipers out ("in) once it cooled down and took some measurements. Reverse idler shaft: notched end: 0.750 other end: 0.747 Case holes: Outter: 0.747 Inner: 0.736 Do these measurements seem ok? Also can I just press the bushing out of the reverse idler gear and replace it? The gear itself seems fine to me. |
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pjensen641
Member Joined: 21 June 2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 690 |
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Dang, if the gear looks fine and there wan't much for bushing play, you might have gotten by without touching the reverse gear.
You might see how much the bushing is from Novak or Debella. Honestly, I recall the reverse gear (with bearing) and shaft NOS from Debella was pretty reasonable. Might be worth just replacing. I think I said this before, but its worth repeating. If there is any wear on the cluster gear shaft, buy that shaft ONLY from Novak. I tested the hardness of two other replacement shafts and they were not up to spec (Even the NOS one from Debella!). Same goes for the D18 intermediate shaft, I would only source from Novak. Other sources may or may not have the correct heat treat, and that is critical for bearing surfaces.
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Overland
Member Joined: 22 Feb. 2016 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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So general advice questions.
I'd like to prep and paint the cases since I'm going through all this effort. Is getting the cases media blasted the best way to prep them? I don't have that equipment and would have to take it to a shop. For now I have just done pressure washing. When I paint what do you guys suggest? Long-lasting protection is my first priority. Thanks |
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Overland
Member Joined: 22 Feb. 2016 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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So in Rick's video he states that the nub on the main gear should be 0.726, anything less than 0.725 indicates a bad gear.
I just want to double check that this is correct. My main gear seems fine in all respects except I measured the numb (several times with caliper and micrometer) at 0.626. Do I absolutely have to replace then? Will it ride poorly in the clutch or something? |
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wadoyado
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 29 Sep. 2016 Location: Mi. Status: Offline Points: 728 |
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Hey, fellow Michigander, If your talking about the main drive gear that goes into the pilot bushing on the fly wheel... I just checked two, both measure .625 5/8 in. I'm not sure what vid your talking about but I think he's talking about something else. I've only done one T-90 so I'm by no means an expert. I'm still in my Rookie year but one thing I've learned, correct terminology is very important. Joe Wadoyado
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"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Overland
Member Joined: 22 Feb. 2016 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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Thanks Joe,
I meant the main drive input shaft gear Rick talks about the stub diameter at 5:00 in this video and says .726, not .6xx https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZV5QOL9uzHI&t=17s Any and all input is always welcome. Thanks! -Dave |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4760 |
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Rick mispoke... 0.626 on the shaft, 0.628 on the pilot bushing
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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