T90C blocking plate for large hole TC |
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Gaffer
Member Joined: 06 Nov. 2015 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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Posted: 02 Aug. 2021 at 11:31pm |
I am working on the assembly of a T90C. I am excited to get a little lower gearing in my T90. I now have all the transmission together but noticed I can't put the locking plate between the reverse idler shaft and the cluster gear shaft. I aligned them prior so that is no issue. I installed the T86 adapter on the back of the T90 for the large hole transfer case which I am using. I just realized there is no room to slide the blocking plate down from the top into the slots on to the shafts. Do I trim the small tabs off that form a "T" and slide it up from the bottom?
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-Gaffer
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4183 |
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Yeah it’s OK to trim off the lock plate extension.
Then after installing; tap the shafts in tight to hold the lock plate in position.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Gaffer
Member Joined: 06 Nov. 2015 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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Thanks for the reply. Hope to put this together by the weeks end.
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-Gaffer
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4183 |
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Depending on the specific transfer case casting you are using you may encounter different sized “pockets” to accept the transmission lock plate.
Also the lock plate dimension may vary from one mfgr to another. Just make the plate fit as need be so it will keep the transmission shafts from possibly spinning.
Edited by oldtime - 03 Aug. 2021 at 9:52am |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Gaffer
Member Joined: 06 Nov. 2015 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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I am aware of what your talking about. I have studied a number of the Tera Low gear intalls discussed on this site along with standard small hole cases. I pulled my case from an old 71 Jeepster commando dana 20 big hole case. I don't recall right now if it is a -6 or -8 revision on the casting. I do have the relief for the counter shafts but will need to ensure that the plate stays up. Like you said I'll give the shafts an extra tap to clamp the lock plate in place. After install I believe I will be shortening the clutch tube since the ball on the case sits outboard a little more than the original '47 case. All hints/suggestions are appreciated.
I guess I never though about the shaft spinning with it being a slight press fit... good reason for the plate. My trans takes a bit of effort to put the shaft home once its in the front case section, so I back it up when knocking it in to protect the case from splitting. Edited by Gaffer - 03 Aug. 2021 at 10:17am |
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-Gaffer
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4183 |
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Not all TC castings provide threads for accepting the clutch control pivot ball.
Of those that do; I have not come across any where the clutch control ball is extended out further than normal. So not sure what to say on that. When using a T98/18 rear adapter plate the clutch control pivot is attached to the adapter plate and not the case casting. These clutch control pivot tubes are much shorter than the typical ones.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Gaffer
Member Joined: 06 Nov. 2015 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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I'll try and get some pictures of what I am seeing.
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-Gaffer
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Gaffer
Member Joined: 06 Nov. 2015 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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The top right case is the dana 20/large hole and has the raised emboss. The lower is the 1947 dana18/small hole caes with shorter emboss.
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-Gaffer
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BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 630 |
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I’ve now been into four transfer cases coming up with enough decent gears to put two together. Three 18s (two 1-1/8” and one 1-1/4”), and one 20. No two lock plates were the same.
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BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4183 |
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Amount of material on the 2 different bosses is of very little consequence.
It does not effect the location of the clutch control “LEVER AND TUBE ASSEMBLY”.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Gaffer
Member Joined: 06 Nov. 2015 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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Well I am curious and I guess I will know more when I assemble it but, bobevans mentioned it in his tera low gear set up. At the very bottom of the page. I wonder if something else was different. |
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-Gaffer
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Rick G
Member Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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When I built my large-hole d18 I had to grind down that clutch pivot boss. It was physically impossible to install the tube assembly until I removed about ⅜”. Worked fine after I did, tho.
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4183 |
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I’m sure I covered this topic in detail a good 10 or more years back over on the old 3B forum.
There are perhaps a dozen different clutch control “lever and tube assemblies” that Jeep issued for various applications. Many things factor into which control tube to use. The variables include the engine, the transmission, the transfer case, the clutch diameter and even the make of the clutch was a factor with the Rockford type clutches. I’m sure I still have over a half dozen different control lever tube assemblies in my collection. If you tell me all your specs I can tell you how long the tube should be, the lever lengths and even detail the clocking of the levers. Well at least I can get you the part number for the correct control. Edited by oldtime - 03 Aug. 2021 at 10:29pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Gaffer
Member Joined: 06 Nov. 2015 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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Thanks Old time. The Jeep is a 47cj2a with stock drive train minus the new transfercase. L134, T90, Dana 18 (1971 vintage). I wonder if the "lever and tube" assembly for the 1971 year would be shorter than that used in 1947?
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-Gaffer
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4183 |
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Book says the “lever and tube” prior to serial #14126 is an A-1355.
I double checked and yes the pivot ball boss (when present) on all “big hole cases” extends out about 3/4” further than the pivot ball position on the “small hole” cases. There was no clutch control “lever and tube assembly” built to fit those specifications. Best I can tell is you need to shorten the tube portion on the right side (about 3/4” ) for it to fit as if normal. Or do as Rick suggests and grind off a portion of the big hole “pivot ball boss”. Looks to me that you can grind the boss down 1/2” and still have full thread contact on the pivot ball stud.
Edited by oldtime - 05 Aug. 2021 at 11:23am |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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