Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Modifications from original
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - T-98 / T-18 trans to L134 bellhousing
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

T-98 / T-18 trans to L134 bellhousing

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12345 6>
Author
Message
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2019 at 4:48am
Seth,

    I am high-centered currently. After cleaning the outside of the Scout T-18 i discovered that it is the 4:1 model low gear. So, I am hoping to find a T-18 with the 6.32 low.
   My understanding is that the output shaft in my Scout T-18 may not interchange with the input of the Ford. (where the two meet with the roller bearings).

   I am tempted to purchase a 17 tooth input shaft for the long jeep FSJ application, and send it to Moser for modification, but my senses tell me to wait until a 6.32 trans comes along at a reasonable price.

   The bellhousing modification has been on hold because I have been refurbing my 1957 Lincoln SA-200 field welder. I fired it up last year after the CARR Fire up here, because it is the welder I aim to use to weld the transmission ears from the Ford bell, onto the L134 bell. This is my stick-welder, so I figured i'd better get it serviced and cleaned up with a Dupont Overhaul.
    ( it had a stuck exhaust valve from sitting, or bad-gas, and i had to get that freed-up ).   So, for extra lube i'm running Marvel Mystery in the fuel and crankcase oil.    hahahaha, _ _ i'm superstitious, so a little extra lube in the fuel will help lube the valve-stems for a tank-full.

   Seth,   you have a very nice Willy's. When looking at your jeep in the thread of Winch Mounting, i could see what appeared to be Turbo-tubing.

    I have been running an '02 Subaru WRX for 12-years now, and LOVE IT !

    The next thing will be to play around with using the 309 stainless rod and see what results i get.

    Doing some reading on LINCOLN ELECTRIC website about welding tips for cast iron, it sounds like the preferred method is utilizing Ovens and specific temperatures.   One point was to weld in short portions and peening while orange.
   Norm, the 91-year old welder at Jimmy Strauss Jeeps suggested peening around the perimeter of the weld if Braze welding cast iron.

   I got a source for my firewood cutting for next winter's supply and have been busy doing the firewood-thing. _ _ _ what a workout. Ugh.

   Seth, you got me all fired-up when you posted your T-18 thread, and were very well organized.   I like your work and is very encouraging to have you share what you did to reach the end. I like the element of challenge while attempting to make something work which is slightly "out-of-the-norm." :)

   Maybe this summer I will come across a T-18 that will work.

    One last thought:   have moser modify my 4:1 input shaft and follow-thru with putting the Scout 4:1 internals into the Ford T-98 trans-case.
    Truthfully, here locally the 4:1 will work beautifully, and second is syncronized.

    Now, then, for the Rubicon Trail, the 6.32 is mucho-better !

    Len

Edited by Greaser007 - 29 May 2019 at 9:09pm
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2019 at 9:42pm
Greaser007 checking in with an update of progress !

   I believe I may have found me a local machinist to do some modifications for me by first milling the bearing retainer hole to the size of 4-3/4 inch to accomodate the T-18 front bearing retainer. Once i get the pilot-hole milled, then i can begin with cutting up the donor Ford Bellhousing to re-purpose the transmission mounting "ears" to then weld to the L134 bellhousing.
   This may be a far-fetched-idea, but this isn't my first puzzle of modifications i have attempted, and below is a link to the welding-rod that i think i had better try because of the machinability and puddling properties.
    
https://www.airgas.com/product/Welding-Products/Filler-Metal/Stick-Electrode-%28SMAW%29/Stick-Electrode---Maintenance-Alloy/p/HARNLW99600POP

   If anyone of you guys have tried using "Muggy-Weld" rod, then please give me a follow-up report, because out of curiosity, i just may try it as a Compare to the 1/8" Harris® Nic-L-Weld 99 Nickel Maintenance Alloy Electrode.
And, i am going to give the 309L stainless rod a try also.
   Now, i cannot say that i am a "good" welder, but i have only been melting metal together for 50+ years, and have owned my Linde 225 mig-master for 38-yrs of good service.   ( i need my own vertical mill, and a Lathe ).
   
    What i have discovered is that the donor Ford bellhousing is out of a 1979 Ford Truck HD ( medium-duty 2-ton type ) and the bolts holding the trans to bellhousing are huge ! and the index-hole for the front bearing retainer on the Ford t-98 is a whopping 5-1/8 inch diameter. The Scout T-18 front retainer diameter is only 4.3/4 inches.
    I am off to the machinist's soon with L134 bellhousing.
The machine shop that i have "discovered", which i thought was closed, is actually OPEN. ( no kidding it looks like some sort of Compound, and surrounded by a tall chain-link fence, with a lack-of-signs ). The owner, Mark, didn't believe me when i told him i have always thought the business to be closed.

The name of the business is A & A Machinie & Welding in Anderson, California.
and for anyone interested the phone # (530)-365-5947 - Mark Alward.

I hope he takes an interest and doesn't price-gouge me so as to not have to deal with this petty-project, which for him, is probably more of a Migrane-Headache than a "Fun-exciting-Project-challenge", Nor is it a Big-Money project for the machinist either.   Oh well, i am about to find out First-hand.

   I have been thinking too, that once i get the hole bored, and play with which welding rod gives me a satisfactory bond of the cast iron to cast iron, then i will send my Scout T-18 input shaft to Moser for their expertise.

   Simply amazing. Pricing is all over the Board for machine work.
I called a machine shop in Sacramento, "West Coast Frame" and they wanted a minimum of $100.00 to mill the hole larger in the L134 bellhousing.
I phoned a machine shop in Red Bluff which does rock handling fabrication, and they quoted $75.00 to use the vertical mill.

   More Later !

    Len

Edited by Greaser007 - 29 May 2019 at 9:45pm
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2019 at 1:59am
Progress Report:   _ _ _ I know, it is slower than Moses too. :)

    I have dissected the Ford Truck bellhousing for the "donor" ears which I hope to weld to the "recipient" Willys L134 Bellhousing.    Good Luck I keep hearing.
Truthfully, guys, I have not got a promising word from anyone who welds.
I have a buddy who spent a lifetime brazing broken cast components and he cusses the thought of NiCad 99 rod or Stainless Steel rod with Cast-to-Cast !!!


This image shows the Ford casting numbers being D9 (for 1979)
interesting that the diameter of the front bearing retainer is 5-1/8-inch.
The lighter-duty bellhousing for passenger car and pickups is 4-and something.
the transmission-to-bellhousing bolts are 9/16 in the truck bellhousing, whereas the light-duty C1 bellhousing I have is 1/2-inch.


This shows the '79 Ford truck bellhousing prior to cutting up with a diamond wheel chucked into my trusty angle-head grinder.



This shows the transmission mounting face of the Willys CJ L134 bellhousing.
I hope to weld or braze the Ford trans ears to this bellhousing.


I dropped-off photos that I printed from Seth's conversion for the Front Bearing Retainer Adapter, to my machinist around 9:30am today. He had not yet bored the bellhousing pilot hole yet.


This shows the center portion of the "donor" ears cut-out.
I did very good with the straight-cuts with the diamond-blade. Then I had to worry my way through the sharp radius inside-corners. These were a real booger and I wound up using the Junk blades that come with the Dremel accessory kit.
They are the ones that are about 1-inch diameter and break real easy. I did use a few of the darker colored reinforced abrasive wheels about 1-1/2 inch diameter.    Anyway, I had to take a few breaks and before I knew it, the center portion was Out-of-there !   yeay.
    Now for trimming the outside of the "donor" ears, it was easy-money straight cuts.   No problems.   
     As soon as my "machinist-guy" gets after my bellhousing, I can index the trans case to transmission and fit the "donor" ears to the L134 bell.
I cannot remember the last time I have been so Black as grinding this Cast Iron for this transmission swap.
    This would be Much Easier if I were to just use a 1-inch Adapter-Spacer on the front, but I have been hell-bent on trying this method of modifying a bellhousing to be the lucky recipient of a Ford T-18 Granny-gear Transmission.
   
    Again, to get this project to completion, I am going to follow through using the 4:1 granny ratio that I happen to have.


Bingo !   Donor transmission-mounting ears from Ford to attach to L134 bell.


The quick cutting Diamond blade for my 4-1/2 inch grinder. These work !

I can say one thing - I don't like being at the mercy of a machine shop that is a Busy-one-man-show, and I am the newbie-customer. When I was in the shop today, I was not met with enthusiastically, and after dropping off the photos, I felt like I was just "another-nuisance" customer.   And the guy was working on trying to salvage broken logging skidder box covers. Go Figure.
    
    I went to attach the welding leads to my SA-200 welder today, and had to solder a big terminal on the end of my rod-holder cable.   and had to drill out the hole to 1/2-inch.   Jigged the terminal into a holder and began filling with molten solder. I flinched, the cable Flinched and flipped the terminal out of the holder spraying molten solder everywhere.   OMG it's great to be alive to chuckle later on the flub-ups.
    Working on uncharted projects is like climbing the local Cinder Cone. In order to make progress going up it takes 3 steps up and then sliding back 2 steps to make 1-full step upwards toward the Peak.
    ( no, I don't want my photo taken on top of Everest )

    Even tho I haven't driven my Willys yet in 1-1/2 years, I enjoy looking at it each day as I walk by it.   And, as long as my Bucket-List is "active" I will hope to move forward on my T-18 to L134 Transmission Conversion.

    Oh, I did not research using a Throw-out bearing with larger inside diameter to be able to use the front brg retainer that goes with the 1-1/16 dia long input shaft (driven gear).    The name "driven gear" is greek to me. But in some techie manuals, they are not input shafts, but driven gears.

    When being retired, it is real easy to just put-off stubborn projects. Then there reaches a point of no-return. ( that occurs during the purchase, which is the first outlay of Cash ). From then-on, the project needs water ( cash or green-backs ) to nourish it so it can develop.   Besides the monetary support, the project "trustee" must find necessary time from a normally Hectic schedule to bust knuckles and have stitches put-in, and so on. Maybe a piece of metal pulled out of the eye. Don't hesitate if you get a piece of metal in the eye, go Straight to the emergency room and get it extracted. Pronto.

    My 3-grown children all early 30's, took Dad ( lil ol me ) snow skiing at Squaw Valley USA on Saturday, June numero-uno for my Father's Day gift.
No kidding, what a nice break from the Willys trans puzzle, and the weather was a cool 62-degrees and light passing clouds. Such Fun.   
    My father in law would always tell me that our children are our most valuable asset in life. And they do resemble us. Good luck world !
    I am feeling like I am now engaged in "Summer-mode" as the heat rises to near 100-degrees.   yep it will be warm but arid.   A good thing that welding helmuts have a Sweat Band.   Really, they are more of a bumper than a sweat diverter.   The new GM 4-cylinder for the Silverado in 2020 has a Diverter-valve for both oil and water.   no BS.
     A good thing to have a willys right !
And when something happens and we need basic transportation by pre-computer automobiles, our Willys will pull-the-grade, with fresh-air heating and cooling.

    There are many components I need to purchase yet, and didn't take a list to the Plymouth military vehicle gathering because I saw a few civilian parts, but forgot about "mock-up" pieces.   Throw-out bearing and holder and spring and fork and pivot ball.   You know, all that "little-stuff" that sure ads up quickly.   I like how Seth (millennial Falcon) turned-down the throw-out holder to set the bearing back, to near the original position fore-and-aft because of pushing the bearing retainer forward with the Retainer-adapter.

Now, I need to focus on a holder for my lit torch to keep my work piece "warmed-up" so I can set it down, and fumble and ponder, and heat and maybe if lucky lay some weld bead.   Then quickly grab the torch and keep heat on the work area.   That all sounds good. I'm buying some sand and am going to bury the thing in sand after I am all done welding. Sure sounds good in thought.
    The only encouraging words about welding cast iron was from a 35-year John Deere parts manager who said that the welders who had successful welds was for a non-structural fillet. But, if the fillet was for a structural component where the weld I think, is put under tension, then they are more prone to failing.

    More later as I progress through this puzzle.

     


Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2019 at 6:52pm
   As Jack Nicolson once said: I'M BACK !! hahha

   Ok guys, I dove into the Ford T-98 trans to take it apart late yesterday.
First off, just this morning before writing this, I read through page 1.
Now months later after trying my bestest to digest everything you guys have been sharing with me, _ _ _ it is Now, finally beginning to make Cents ( sense ). ha

   Ant, this early truck T-98 has the large diameter 5.125" frnt brg retainer.
And again, the shaft is huge, 1.375 or something. whew.

    Please give me some input on where to shop for the 17-tooth long FSJ jeep input shaft that would be compatible with the Ford T-98 mainshaft and 2-nd gear syncro hub.    I will have to read through Mellinial Falcon's thread because he mentioned something about blocking-rings being two sizes.   Anyway I am not quite quite "there" yet until I get both transmissions tor down to Compare differences in-hand.   ( I am a "hand-on" learner ). sorry

   If I cannot figure out which input shaft to purchase with the 17-tooth and compatible to match up with the rest of the innards from the T-98, I plan on moving forward with putting the Scout T-18 innards into the Ford T-98 case, and then have Moser turn-dpwn my long Scout input. My Scout is the 4:1 granny, which will be just fine for most everything in my neck-of-the-woods.

   Below is a few photos of the disassembly of the Ford 2wd T-98 transmission.


   This shows the use of the huge pipe wrench to hold the flange, and the 3/4" drive, 1-1/2" socket to break the tailshaft nut loose.


   Ok here is the rear mainshaft bearing and retainer-clip.


    This photo shows how I pried the rear bearing carefully out of the case and sliding it off the shaft also. The bearing was not a tight-fit in the case.


    Ok, this shows the Front bearing on the input shaft (driven gear).


   This shows the backside of the front bearing Retainer. Where this one measures 5-1/8" diameter, I have seen some on the internet that are only 4-3/4" outside diameter.   So I had my machinist bore out my Willy's L134 bellhousing to just that,   4.750-inch.
   The Coffee-cup-Coaster Adapter like Mellinial Falcon made will be machined on the back-side to match this T-98 retainer.


    This shows the front of the Ford T-98 trans.


    This shows the rear mainshaft bearing removed from the Ford T-98


    This shows the Front input shaft bearing removed as far as it would go until the synchronizer thing came up against the back side of the cluster gear, being the gear that the driven-gear (input) runs-on.

    At this point, I could not get the mainshaft with gears out of the case.
I was considering driving out the cluster gear shaft to allow the cluster gear to drop down enough to allow the input shaft to move forward at least 1/4 inch.
I began searching through my Shop Service Manuals, and finally found an article
in an older Chiltons motor manual, and it explained that the front bearing must be pulled off of the input shaft to allow it to move up and forward, then allowing the Mainshaft assembly to be removed up and out the top of the Case. !! voila.


   At 8:00pm yesterday, I made a trip to the new AutoZone store here in Anderson, California, and rented some bearing puller stuff.

The following article in Four Wheeler website explains the T-18 disassembly.
And it confirmed the necessity to remove the front bearing to be able to get that heavy mainshaft assembly removed from the T-98 case.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/1703-t18-transmission-rebuild/

    More later:



Edited by Greaser007 - 15 June 2019 at 7:03pm
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 4139
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 June 2019 at 10:49pm
Yes Ford T98/T18's uses a larger set of direct drive and second gear synchronizers (cone clutches) than do the Jeeps.
The mainshaft pilots are also of different diameters.

So those parts the maindrive gear (AKA input shaft), the synchronizer assembly and the second gear (The T98 gear that rolls on needles) cannot be mixed around  in a hodge podge  fashion.
In other words your  just not going to get a short Jeep maindrive gear (not a Jeep  T98 nor T18) to fit into your Ford T98.

You could feasibly have the Ford maindrive diameter turned down to 1-1/8" or 1-1/16".
Then you could get a Jeep 1-1/8" bearing retainer or turn down a Ford 1-1/16" bearing retainer.
That said you must determine if Ford T98 maindrive has enough stick out length for custom your Willys bellhousing
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2019 at 3:22am
Ken,
   Whew, to my knowledge (yes it is limited at best), I don't recall any specific article I have found, which CLEARLY explains the "differences" between the Jeep, IH-Scout and Ford applications on the synchronizer-assemblies, 2nd gear, main-shaft Snout and STUFF.
   From just "reading" articles on the net, I am unable to say what I will be able to interchange with what, until I get both transmissions disassembled to physically get my measuring hands onto those parts and pieces to find out the differences in decimal or inch format.

   The ONE-THING I have not found is the "T-18 Interchange" bible.

Novak may be the bestest, but he does not explain in measurement-terms just what will match with what of the 3=choices ( Ford, IH and Jeep). This is the Confusing part for us guys who haven't dealt with these trans ever, or like me, the last one I tore-down and installed, was 35-years ago.

    Please bear with me, and I Do appreciate all knowledgeable input.

   Until I read the Four-Wheeler article for guidance, there was No-Way the mainshaft assembly was going to squeak-out of the case without removing the Reverse-shifter pivot-and retainer-pin. Doggonit, this thing is a Turd !
I say that from the Robin-Williams movie "RV", and they nicknamed the rv the Turd because it was Big and sluggish. This T-98 is Big and HEAVY.

   First off with the Bearing Separator, it would not expand enough to fit over the input bearing to lock into the retainer-ring groove.
A brand new 4-1/2 inch separator will only expand to 2-1/2" inside, and the outside diameter of the bearing is 3 and some inches. (I cannot quote the diameter off my head) sorry, too many numbers. Here I have the largest of AutoZone's separator's and it only expands to 2-1/2", so why is it advertised as a 4-1/2 incher ?



    Moving forward one step and backward one-step:   it took me forever to mock-up the Separator and Puller onto the transmission. Please see below:


   I have a "confession" to make regarding THIS PHOTO !!
I no-sooner got this separator retrofitted to pull, and then realized I had not removed that Pesky front bearing retainer CLIP.   Oh No.
Yep, I had to take it all apart after feeling so Rosy about my good endeavors, and fought that dang Clip for what seems like an "effort-less-Eternity."

   Anyway, on one article I have read the guy said that his trusty retainer-ring pliers were really not up to the task of removing the clip holding the input shaft bearing in place. Nor was mine, and I have a nice pair of Proto's.
   I fought that clip for at least 30-minutes cussing and swearing. My dad is a religious man, and he can Cuss-like-a-sailor. I don[t think I got it from him, but from my Own-Aggravation. That clip tested my patience and when I FINALLY got it, whew, I was dripping sweat from head-to-toe, and wound up jumping in the pool. It is a real booger trying to strip-off wet clothes while wet, to then get wet.   and I don't live in a humid climate.


   this photo shows my Bearing Separator "mock-up" that I had to do to get the Separator to expand enough to reach around the front bearing race and attach to the retainer-ring groove.
   What I did is used a nut for the threaded rods to act as a coupler, joining the two together end-to-end for one side of the separator. Then for the other side, I used a piece of 1/2" tube steel "scrap" with Vise Grips to lock the other side of the separator. Then I attached the long rods for the Puller-bar to attach to and bolted the Puller-arm to the rods. Presto !

   Why do we always have to retr0-fit stuff to make it work.   Because !!

   Next item of interest is to remove the roll-pin that locks the pivot shaft for the Reverse-idler-gear (which engages and disengages Reverse Gear) to the transmission case.


   this photo shows the Pin after I finally got it to MOVE.



No wonder some articles or service manuals say to "remove part xxxx" without any detail on procedure. I am trying to describe procedure to help the next poor soul who takes an interest in the T-98 / T-18 conversion to the L134 Willys engine-bellhousing.
   In my case the driven-end of the pin was visible. The end I was to smack to drive out Was-not !   I cleaned and scraped to no avail. So, I broke out Dremel !   yep, good ol Dremel that I swear I use each-week on Something.



   20-years ago, I bought a set of Diamond-cutting-wheels for Dremel, curious of if they would really cut anything, because _ _ _ they were made in China.
And we all know the reputation of some goods produced back then. But, while I am kicking China, I do have to praise them for One Thing. High
Speed drill bits.   I have to fess up that I have never had a better cutting set of drill bits than the ones I purchased at a Sacramento, California Price Club in 1982. Most of those are working fine except for the ones I have broken.
    Ok, I scarified a spot on the transmission casting trying in vain to "spot" an outline of the end of that drift-pin on the Reverse shifter shaft-to-case issue. So I lined-up best I could with the pin from two directions and with my short handled 3-lb maul and punch I gave Her a big Smack ! No-Movement. yep
   I repeat this monkey-motion about 6 Times with fingers-crossed for movement.
YES _ _ it happened, and with some finaggaling, the pin came out.



Please note that the shaft that the Reverse shift arm pivots-on does have an "O-ring" to seal the shaft-to-case !   very clever guys there at Borg Warner. The little shaft pushes out from the inside very easily.   Finally, yes, something EASY on this transmission "sweat-job" to disassemble.



    Pulling the input bearing was a loooong-tedious-task. That front bearing was TIGHT.   yes it was, and I remember a guy in one article who disassembled a IH Scout T-18, and he said it was TIGHT removing bearings and syncro-hubs off of the Scout shafts.   I have to say that Corn-Binders were TOUGHT-TRUCKS. and Gas-Hogs with the 345 engines. ( I had a nice '71 4x Travel-all ).
    
   Now, I am at the point where the front input shaft (driven-gear in French) and the rear output bearing of the main-shaft has been removed, and the Reverse shift-arm, we Can-Now remove the Main-shaft Assembly up and out the top of the case. Before doing this, I was going to be "smart" and pic the roller bearings carefully out of the back of the input shaft with my magnet. It didn't work.

    Ok, I am stopping here and will come back to edit-in photos.


Edited by Greaser007 - 19 June 2019 at 5:55pm
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2019 at 4:26am
Good grief, this task of trying to be descriptive is tedious.
The photo loader is a real challenge, and I have been having trouble with my description-box "freezing-up" and not being responsive. Geesh, I don't know if it is me, or my sensitive lap-top pad.
   I keep loosing my entered text upon "refresh" and am learning to input my text, and Post-Reply. Then go back in the thread and "Edit" to drop-in photos.

   I am wondering if all this is worthwhile, but in the back of my mind, there are many guys who can benefit from this information.

Below is the Ford T-98 case with driven-gear (input-shaft) and the Main-shaft assembly removed.


   This photo shows the case with Counter-shaft and Reverse idler in place yet.



   this shows the input shaft and main shaft assembly together
Here is what I know about Syncro's: if you look at a gearset like this and wondering if the syncro's are good, there must be a Gap between the sycro and the gear it is meshing with. If no gap 1/16-inch approx., then the syncro is most likely worn. On this Ford T-98, there is the 1/16-inch clearance, and the grooves in the tapered area are very distinct. These are Fine.
Granted, I am no expert, but in my lifetime I've had many a transmission apart.
One of the EASIEST transmissions to work on is the New Process 435 4-speed.



   my red CJ-7 in the background of the previous photo, and this shows the
mounting of the 2-inch tube steel crossmember I had fabricated-up when I installed the Ford T-18 trans back in 1984 using a Novak Adapter kit.


   Forgive me for the undercarriage being dirty, but this shows more of the crossmember and T-18 mounting in my '77 CJ-7 renegade with 304-V8 engine.
I have to admit, this transmission makes the Rubicon Trail a fun outing.



   This shows the backside of the 17-tooth input shaft where those pesky roller bearings reside. I tried carefully removing them with a magnet, and it didn't work well because the gear teeth would strip them off and the drop to the bottom of the chasm.


   this shows the "ring grooves" on the beveled portion of the Syncro Ring or in French terms (Blocking-ring). Why aren't parts described in one-language ?



   this shows the wire clip that holds the "gismo's" in place. My brain is getting numb, and I forget what those 3-clips are called that lock the locking-ring to the Hub on the shaft.
Note: when sliding the locking-ring into the forward position, I think this will be 4th gear locked to the locking-hub. This forward locking-hub is for the 3rd / 4th gears.
   The big locking ring towards the rear of the Main-shaft assembly is for the 1st (compound-low) / reverse, and 2nd gears. These two gears also have a locking-hub for 1st / 2nd gear "locking-ring".
    Geesh, hey, you guys make of this what you want, because I am not a professional mechanic, so I don't speak in mechanics terms, but shade-tree.

   Ok, I wanted to say something about removing the Cluster-Gear out of the case. First thing to mention, this is a 60-year old Ford T-98 tranamission. The roller bearings compared to the T-90 are Bigger. Yes, we all know that every component develops a wear-pattern. We would like to keep the rollers in the correct order but that Ain't going to happen. Shet happens, and we just do the best we can and sometimes those rollers must be mixed-up plain and simple.
Roller bearings are very difficlut to wear-out when proberly lubed. This transmission has already outlasted the guy who bought it new, and it will outlast me, and probably the next guy behind him.
    I keep pipe and tubing laying around because we never know what we may need tomorrow, and luck was on my side today, and I found a piece of aluminum pipe that I can cut to the correct length to use as a "dowel" to push the cluster gear shaft out, and it will retain the rollers and spacer washers in place.
    This I will do on Wednesday or later in the week so I can flush the case and get it over to the machine shop.

    This has really drug-on, but I have been busy dealing with moving my 91-year old parents into a Senior-mobile park, and driving them here and there.
I love my dad, and am following my instincts to nurture him and mom.
Funny how we are so much like parents, but So-Different.   right !

   Hope this may help somebody in a disassembly.

   I am chomping on the Bit to get busy welding-up my L134 Willys bell-housing to accept the Ford T-98 transmission, but it is at the machinist's shop.

    More Later as the project continues.



Edited by Greaser007 - 19 June 2019 at 6:01pm
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 June 2019 at 7:13pm
   Wed, June 19th UPDATE:

   Ok Everyone - I stopped by my machinists shop yesterday late.

   HE'S DONE !!

   OMG, _ _ _ I am so thrilled with his work. I am very very pleased with the little "coffee-cup-coaster" Adapter that he made for me. As I had mentioned earlier, I had made color prints of the photos that Seth (mellenial-falcon) had posted on his T-18 thread, so my machinist, Mark, could understand the goal.
   No-kidding, after boring my bellhousing out to 3-3/4 inches I took the Scout T-18 trans into him so he could make sure the Adapter ring (Coffee-cup-Coaster) would fit to his satisfaction. I instructed him to copy the measurements of the back-side of the Front Bearing Retainer that came off of the Scout T-18.
   We were sitting in the "foyer" of his shop, and he looked at me and said "I am still confused." Hey, at least he admitted his confusion. We need good communication for sure for a good understanding of the goal.
   That was when I told him to think of the Adapter as a "Coffee-cup-Coaster" with the transmission side the exact replica of the front brg retainer, and the front side having a "cup" to receive the L134 front brg retainer / throw out brg spud. He looked at me in the eyes, and said " I've Got It " !!
    And I explained that in the end, the Scout T-18 input shaft gets sent to Moser Engineering to be turned down and re-splined to match the L134 spec.

   That was the day that an old-guy walked into the shop and him and I began visiting. I explained what I had the machinist making for me for my Willys, and he piped-up and says " I have an old Willys engine " !
    Ha, so I asked him what he would pay me to haul it off. I got a puzzled look from him. :)    I figured that would get him off-balance. hahaha
The old guy mentioned that the engine powered an old Hobart Welder.
   I wanted to visit with this old guy, because he got going on his earlier years as a Mill-wright. The largest timber holding company, I think, in California, is SPI (Sierra Pacific Industries), owned by a guy, Red Emerson.
This old guy told me that he re-furbished every Piece-of-sh*t Sawmill that Red Emerson bought over the years. Ha, I just love visiting with these old guys.
    Uh, _ _ _ _ I like to think of myself as a youngster, but at age 67, I am fooling myself only. yep, gray-hair and thinning badly. The curse is too, is the brain-fade associated with aging.   God help us ALL. (early Alzhiemerz)


   I was sent out back of the machine shop yesterday, and here is that Hobart welder mentioned by that Old-Guy. His name is Dave.
   When I was talking to my machinist, Mark, I told him that I left early the other day while chatting with that Old-guy mill-wright, because I thought I was interrupting business, and cut the conversation-short, and left.
   Mark chuckled, and said:   "that is my DAD" !!   OMG, what a small world.

   Below is a shot of my current Mock-up with my new "Coffee-cup-Coaster" with bellhousing slid over it, and up against the Ford T-98 transmission case, and the L134 front bearing retainer in place with the L134 shaft sticking out.


   this photo shows the L134 front bearng retainer bolted into the new Adapter and with my L134 Bellhousing slid on over the adapter. ( it is not rotated perfectly, so disregard any alignment ). I pieced it together just for Staging-purposes and mock-up. One thing is For-Sure, if my welding proposition concept of attaching the Ford T-98 transmission ears to the L134 bellhousing doesn't work, then I can do like Seth did and just Bolt the bellhousing direct to the Ford T-98 transmission face. Yep, either way.


   this photo shows the Scout T-18 transmission with the "coffe-cup-coaster" Adapter that my machinist made for me. I am liking it yes.

Well, again, I have been "had" by the computer-world, and my photos come-in Sideways.   Granted, I took them with my I-phone and once copying them to my lap-top harddrive, I rotated them and saved them. for some reason, something is remembering the orginal 'orientation', so here I am Sideways-Again !!!

    Heaven help me. I give up.








   this is a "dummy-photo" in a sense, hahaha, because the input shaft is the T-90 shaft just stuck through from inside the Ford T-98 transmission case.
But, in my out-dated-opinion, I think it is coming along nicely.
Which now, I can finally send my input shaft to Moser Engineering which came out of the pre '79 IH Scout T-18 transmission. YEP




   this shows my "mock-up" of L134 Willys bellhousing in place up against the Ford T-98 trans face, and over the "coffe-cup-coaster" Adapter.
Don't worry aobut rotation, because nothing is bolted together here. The reason one retainer-bolt is missing, is Because.   _ _ the head interfered with the bellhousing index-hole. uh huh, but the snap-fit of everything was reassuring that Mark paid attention to tolerances. I just love it. :)
What was once a "pipe-dream" in my brain, is now a Reality.
   ( I will soon be able to cross-off another Bucket-List Item.


   well, I negotiated a deal with my machinist, and I will be taking delivery of this old Hobart in a few weeks. Heaven-help-me, I have the ADDICTION !!


    I'm ready to head to the Lake !
    This shot is at the Lake Almanor boat launch at the south end of the lake.
Now, I've kept this 1971 Winnebago motorhome running since 1994, and we roll out July 26 for a "weeks-Vacation" from the Willys.   hahaha
    I cannot count how many times this motorhome has launched our boats over the years. In this photo are the two Sea Doo GTX waverunners that I maintained for the "family" for six years. they have the 851 Rotax engine, 2=stroke.

Edited by Greaser007 - 19 June 2019 at 10:59pm
Back to Top
AKoller View Drop Down
Member
Member

Sponsor Member

Joined: 19 Sep. 2018
Location: Moundridge Kans
Status: Offline
Points: 647
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 June 2019 at 7:35pm
Your project is starting to come together! You're doing a lot of what I'm doing on my SM420 swap which is hurry up and wait. I should be getting the rest of my parts this week from Novak and than I can finally get back to work on mine. Good luck to you and keep up the good work.
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1
1942 GPW #70221
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 June 2019 at 11:17pm
   Koller,

   I tried in vain last week to get a call through to Novak to order a sealed bearing from them, and got their recording, but it would not switch me over to a working line. hmmm    _ _ is this part of their move to Utah ?

   Very Cool ! _ _ _ i'm with you on the "hurry-up-and-wait" protocol.
There are many times that I have considered the SM420. My buddies who ran Land Cruiser's on the Rubicon, installed chevy 350's with the SM420 trans, and they had good luck with them.

   Each little step takes so many hours of working-and-waiting. And then there is the element of Anticipation. I remember all those years of prepping my jeep ahead of the Rubicon run, hoping that "everything" mechanical was lubed and adjusted properly and ready for the green-flag-to-drop. These Granny-Gear transmissions make trail-crawling such a treat.

   

   

Edited by Greaser007 - 19 June 2019 at 11:19pm
Back to Top
AKoller View Drop Down
Member
Member

Sponsor Member

Joined: 19 Sep. 2018
Location: Moundridge Kans
Status: Offline
Points: 647
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 12:22am
Originally posted by Greaser007 Greaser007 wrote:

   Koller,

   I tried in vain last week to get a call through to Novak to order a sealed bearing from them, and got their recording, but it would not switch me over to a working line. hmmm    _ _ is this part of their move to Utah ?

   

   

I called Novak several weeks ago and got right through to customer service. The guy I talked to was quite helpful and was able to answer all my questions. I ordered my parts from them online last weekend. I had an email from them Monday with a receipt and a FedEx tracking number. I should have it all tomorrow!
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1
1942 GPW #70221
Back to Top
Millennium falcon View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 20 Sep. 2016
Location: Central PA
Status: Offline
Points: 1521
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 1:16am
That looks familiar! haha! nice work! Im happy for you! keep it up! 
Back to Top
smfulle View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 16 Sep. 2010
Location: Ogden, Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 6123
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 June 2019 at 5:38am
Originally posted by Greaser007 Greaser007 wrote:

  

   I tried in vain last week to get a call through to Novak to order a sealed bearing from them, and got their recording, but it would not switch me over to a working line. hmmm    _ _ is this part of their move to Utah ?
 

Sorry you’re having trouble getting to Novak. I’m pretty sure they have always been in Utah, or at least as long as I’ve been dealing with them for the last 5 or 6 years. 
 

Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 June 2019 at 7:54pm
Lee,
   So TRUE I am finding out, because when I spoke with the young man at Moser Engineering, he said "bring-it-on" and send both shafts.
    It was such good news to hear that encouraging-word.

Smfulle,
   I finally got a line through to Novak, and got a T-90 sealed front bearing ordered Friday !   yeeaaay.
   I am going to send the front bearings with both the T-90 L134 input shaft to Moser as their "template" along with the Scout T-18 input shaft to be turned-down and re-splined to the L134 template.
   For those who have not done this yet, the groove on the front bearing provides a depth measurement from face-of-trans to pilot-bearing-end of Shaft for length determination.

Ken (oldtime),
   _ _ _ I did some "measuring" yesterday, and the hole diameter in the input shaft where it receives the stub from the Main-shaft VARIES.
    My note-paper is out in the shop, but I will edit this at a later time to reveal the subtle difference between the Ford t-98 and the pre-Scout T-18.
I have been doing some 'backyard-pondering" on the idea of what you mention about a different shaft size in conjunction with a standard T-18 front bearing retainer.   Correct me if I am mixed up here _ _ _ but it seems that there is a variation of the T-18 or T-19 front bearing retainer that is 1-3/8 inches O.D. where the Throw-out bearing rides. Then I have found some GM throw-out's that have the 1-3/8 inch I.D. too.   Now, I have not been able to find dimensions on the O.D. of the GM throw-out's, which may prove to be too Large diameter for the forks on the L134 pressure-plate arms.   I feel it would be easy enough to modify a clutch fork to whatever spec we need to fit the throw-out holder, but that is so-far "un-explored" territory.    hahahahaha

   Koller,
    I too have a tracking number from Novak. I told the guy who answered the phone that a week back, the answering system would not transfer me over. And I told him that back in 1984, when I had ordered the T-18 kit for my '77 CJ, that I would have sworn they were in California.   He said YES once-upon-a-time they were before Novak sold the business approx. 15 years back.

Below is a few shots of the Donor Ford T-98 bellhousing "ears" ground to lay over the Willys L134 Bellhousing:


   this photo shows the fitment of the donor Ford T-98 bellhousing ears laid over the early Willys L134 Bellhousing.   pre-welding


   another view of the donor Ford bellhousing ears laid over the Willys bell.

   NEXT STOP:   Grinding V-grooves in strategic locations for welding, and fabricating web-stiffener plates to reinforce the ears at all 4-corners on the engine-side of the donor 'ears'-to-L134 Bellhousing.
   ( I swear I have dwelled on this configuration for HOURS and DAYZ )
I think it has put me into a DAZE !!    hahahaha

   What is that saying about the Best Laid Plans of Mice and Men ! go figure.

   And then there was that guy on YouTube who did the weld strength-test and had best results using 7018 with the flux removed ! go figure that one !
   Now, I have to stress once AGAIN, my Dad, age 91, who was a part owner of an engine machine shop for 20-years and an employee of GM for another 20, reminded me that years ago, some of the best local welders told him they had best-luck welding Cast Iron with straight Cast-Rod.   BOOM !
    I am old-school and have old-school ways. I am not a professional welder, but, I have only been melting things together for 50-years, and always feel as though I am still on the LEARNING-CURVE.   is later-life a "re-learn" of what we have forgotten over the years ! The brain-registery is an amazing reference to draw-from if it is still UPDATED frequently. Now, the storage capability may be lacking, and there are no-known "updates."

    More Later !

    I'm BACK !!

   Below is the welder I will be using:
I think it is a 1957 Lincoln SA-200 Pipe-liner's welder. Kinda Cool machine.




    I think I took ownership of this welder sometime around 1992. The engine had been partially disassembled and the head was off. I floated Marvel Mystery oil on the top of the pistons for 4-years, and then rebuilt the engine after pushing the pistons up-and-out.   I always kept the welder for backup, but only fired it up about every 8-years since and would weld one inch of bead and shut it down.   Until Now !



   So, for the transmission project, this is my only stick-welder.
I have never owned a buzz-box, but did buy a new Linde 225 Mig-Master in 1984, and that has been my main source of welding machine.
    Note: this is a First-Time to weld Cast Iron.

   The first electrode to experiment with was Harris Ni-99 rod. I set the machine to 45 volts and laid a short bead.   Geeze-Louise, I have to have the electrode almost floating in the puddle. If I pull-back to increase arc-length, I loose the arc.



    Next try was to turn the voltage up to 70 volts. Hmm, much hotter, but I think I like the 70-volt range.


   so, on this photo, the left-half of the bead was @ 45volts and the right portion of the bead, which looks much better is set at 70volts. I like the 70.

    Lincoln Electric says in their tutorials on the website says to weld at a Low Voltage.    And if you don't have an oven, then pre-heat, and do short welds and peen lightly with rounded-point slag hammer.
    I'm buying into that procedure because that is what my welding mentor taught me many years ago in 1973.

    So, to date - I have burned only two sticks of the Harris Ni-99 rod, and with very satisfactory looking beads. IMO   
If my memory serves me, the Ni-99 is machinable.

Below is an interesting YouTube video of a guy testing weld strength:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zggrKXRPkyI


   that's all folks for now :)



Edited by Greaser007 - 24 June 2019 at 10:18pm
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 4139
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2019 at 3:33pm

This is VERY nice and exactly how I would have approached this particular bellhousing modification.
I suggest you radius the corner when done and scallop the two sides to give a factory look.

Use 1/8" rod @ 55% nickle and it will be best to weld it using AC.
Does your pipeliner do AC ? Not likely....
I've welded several Jeep transmission cases and also Jeep cast steel adapter plates that way with excellent results.
You don't want to vee the casting all the way though. 
Leave about 1/8" without vee for your root pass.
Casting can always be vee'd from other side if need be after you lay in the root pass.

This related article shows an adapter I made using a Jeep casting...



Edited by oldtime - 24 June 2019 at 3:43pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2019 at 10:05pm
   Ken,
   Nice work there guy ! I read through the link you posted for your adapter modification. Such exciting stuff I think, coming up with some next-to-impossible Concept that just might Work if followed through.


   Ken's (Oldtime) adapter shortening concept. _ _ it worked and looks good.

   IS there a mainshaft that can be mated to the T-98 input shaft ?
   I ask because all I know is that the hole in the back of the Ford T-98 and in the back of the Scout T-18 were slightly different diameters.
   You had mentioned something about the synchronizer hubs for 1st and 4th may be different diameters than those of the Jeep T-18 and a possible gear-bevel difference.   Is there a IH Scout forum thread that explains the differences ?

   I have not yet measured-out each and every component for comparison of measurements between the two transmissions. And, I have been keeping my eye on Craigslist for a Jeep T-18 w 6.32:1 granny, and nothing popping up yet, until I am done with the 4:1 pre-'79 IH Scout T-18.


   I scrubbed the T-98 trans case yesterday and gave it a Krylon over-haul.

    Below is another morning Mock-up with early Willys bellhousing indexed over the Ford T-98 transmission case with the new 'coffee-cup-coaster' adapter.
Please note, the Ford truck bellhousing Ears are in place over the face of the Willys L134 bellhousing to check for non-bind.




   Well, upon looking at this photo in the "preview" window, I will need to slightly clearance the Willys bellhousing for the slight amount that the Cluster-gear shaft protrudes beyond the face of the trans-case. another item.

   
    Yep, I need to get down to Tractor Supply for 4-9/16"-12nc x 1-3/4" bolts to attach the donor-ears to the T-98 transmission face.

    So, then, my next step is to V-groove the Donor-ears plate to allow room for my weld beads to Willys L134 Bell-hsg.



Edited by Greaser007 - 24 June 2019 at 10:12pm
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 850
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 June 2019 at 10:39pm



   In this photo - I am looking down the Rabbit-Hole. :)

   There are days when I wonder if the inside of my brain looks like this.

   Ha !    _ _ _ or a worse scrambling of clutter.
Back to Top
oldtime View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep. 2009
Location: Missouri
Status: Offline
Points: 4139
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 June 2019 at 2:39am
Golly, I'm getting a tad confused myself trying to keep up with what you might have in mind... Ha Ha Ha !

For starters lets talk about the various T98/T18 transmissions and their cases in general .
As you know these old BW T98 and T18 were used on most anything back in the day. 
Forklifts, log skidders you name it. 
Some of them had very unusual parts like all the gears being cut at reverse angles and so forth.
So to much simplify I'll prefer we keep it to the big 3 automotive users. Ford, IH and Jeep.

Ford cases are all divorced from any transfer case so none will have a use able 6 spline main shaft for D18 /D20 applications.
Essentially all Jeep and IH have correct 6 spline main shaft  that is required.

Both Jeep and IH models also have the D18/20 adapter plate but the IH plate always clocks the transfer case downward as compared to the Jeep rear adapter plate. 
Myself I find the IH rear adapter plates to be essentially worthless.

The rear of the Ford casting must always be re-drilled to accept a rear adapter plate.
The front of the Ford casting can usually be redrilled to accept GM bellhousings.

The front of IH and Jeep castings can have ears welded onto them so that the transmission may be bolted direct to most any bellhousing.
Welding ears onto a Jeep casting is my preferred method for mating one to a GM bellhousing.
For mating a T98-A to a Willys bellhousing my preferred method is to use the factory bellhousing adapter plate. 
But on the downside that adds another 7/8" to the drive train OAL.

PTO port for Jeep and IH are always on the left where it can be accessed if desired.
For Ford (except T19) its always on the left and so the transfer case interferes with using it.

Otherwise T98 and T18 cases are usually swap able except the big difference between pre and post 1978 versions.

 
Quote   IS there a mainshaft that can be mated to the T-98 input shaft ?
Yes both Jeep and IH main shafts can be used in place of the longer Ford main shafts.
The Jeep T98/T18 or the IH T98/T18 is required to mate the transmission to a D18/D20.
I believe most all the Jeep/IH 6 spline mainshafts are virtually identical.
T98's used a castellated nut on the rear while later T18's used an ESNA (AKA nylok) nut.

Quote  I ask because all I know is that the hole in the back of the Ford T-98 and in the back of the Scout T-18 were slightly different diameters.
 
That will effect the size of bearing that can be used. 
Normally the T98/T18 uses a 308 series bearing.
I'm not familiar with any of the early Ford T98 cases using bearings other than the 308 series.
Even the earliest Jeep T98 used the 308 series for rear output as shown below

GROUP 17-03 
912341---------------T98 mainshaft---------------------------------------------MRC 308 SG
912341---------------T18 mainshaft---------------------------------------------MRC 308 MG

FAFNIR.......MRC.........SKF............TIMKEN..........FM...........BCA
308KG........308SG.......6308NRJ.....308L..............308LI........308L3

Yeah these Borg Warner transmissions are getting harder to find.
I have not seen any T18 show up for about 2 years now in my area.

I'll see if I can measure up on some of the Ford /Jeep main drive differences. 
I rather doubt that anyone has that sort of info charted anywhere.

If you have an IH 4.02 about the only thing worth keeping is the main shaft including the large seal bushing and end nut.
Also the rear adapter plate, the counter haft (88 needles) and possibly the reverse idler shaft with bearings. 
Plus the complete shift tower assembly.
Otherwise IMHO the 4.02 IH parts are about useless for Jeeps.
AFAIK the Ford 6.40 T98 is worth keeping excepting the Ford mains haft and tail shaft parts.

You cannot simply swap many internal parts between a 6.40 T98 and a 6.32 T18.
You basically need to go with T98 or T18 but not both.
Several major parts do not swap between them. 
Like the counter shaft (AKA cluster) gears.
Even though the counter shaft and the 88 counter shaft rollers remain the same.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12345 6>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2022 Web Wiz Ltd.