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The 1949 Build and other Projects

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2022 at 4:02pm

Update:  Finally installed the transfer case with the X98 gear set and the PTO cog gear behind the existing T90C.  Everything works as it should.  The final crawl ratio is around 92 to 1.  Which is close to 1/2 mile per hour.

I did run it at the Southington outing before the 2022 Spring Reunion.  Everything worked as it should.  The Jeep does climb better but limited slip in the front is still a bummer when climbing.  I also did not air down which my have been the real issue.

Overall I am very pleased with these gears.  They are quieter and slower which is what I was looking for. 

The photo is of The Saint helping out by anchoring a canopy Friday morning when the wind picked up.  

I also got rude comment from some M38A1 guy - who told his wife my Jeep was "Just and old beater Jeep".  The guy was from MO and did not bring a Jeep to the show.  --  If people only brought restored Jeeps to the show there would be maybe 10 Jeeps at the show.



 


Edited by Stev - 24 May 2022 at 4:03pm
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1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2022 at 4:11pm
"Old beater jeeps" are my favorite. You get to drive them and have fun, not just look at them.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug. 2022 at 9:33am

And two months later, here is one of those "Just Look At Them" only Jeeps out of the garage!  

This was the first outing with new top JPet made back in 2020 for this Jeep.  Really is a super nice top!

This weekend I took the 1948 to the car show about 1/2 a mile from my house.  The weather was perfect and the Jeep ran great.

The back story:  Saturday I pulled the tarp off of it after about two years of little to no driving.  It was up on jack stands about 1/2" off of the ground.  First I tested the brakes.  They seemed good (the pedal did not go all the way to the floor). Then I started it in neutral (still on the jack stands) after sanding the points with a pass or two of 1200 grit sand paper and cleaning up the battery ground. The next issue was clutch had rust welded itself to the flywheel.   Got the clutch freed up by restarting the engine in first gear, then applying the brakes while depressing the clutch -that worked to free up the clutch.  Then removed the jack stands and went for drive.  Tested the brakes and it stopped straight / no pulling to one side.  So just a few simple things and it was running!

Be careful if you are going to run a car on jack stands in gear.  If it falls off you could have a real mess on your hands if you are nose into the garage.


Edited by Stev - 02 Aug. 2022 at 9:23am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2022 at 12:02pm
Working on the 1946 in preparation for the Ohio Fall Colors Ride.  It starts hard and the battery is not holding a charge. 
 - Replaced the battery (The warranty on the battery was still active - Just a clean exchange once their tester said it was bad).
- Found corrosion in the distributor.  It is a electronic distributor that is 15ish years old.  I have a spare and will change out the unit.  The rotor on the electronic distributor has corrosion and it does not appear to be removable without a lot of forceDisapproveIf anyone has ever gotten the rotor off of one of these electronic distributors let me know. 

The Jeep runs fine once started.

Edit update.  
- the distributor is stuck solid in the block.  I have a one of Joe's pullers and will give it a try to extract the distributor.



Edited by Stev - 12 Sep. 2022 at 2:17pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2022 at 8:22am
Worked on the 1946 hard starting problem.
  
- Replaced the rotor and cap on the electronic distributor. 
- Cleaned rust front the top of the shaft were the rotor mounts. 

Starts right up!  So the rust under the rotor seems to have been the hidden problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2022 at 12:02pm
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

Worked on the 1946 hard starting problem.
  
- Replaced the rotor and cap on the electronic distributor. 
- Cleaned rust front the top of the shaft were the rotor mounts. 

Starts right up!  So the rust under the rotor seems to have been the hidden problem.

This seems strange to me. But I'm a history major so no real actual practical knowledge.
Doesn't the spark come in through the center terminal, across the rotor to the spark plug terminal, and out to the spark plug, grounding on the block? How cold rust on the top of the dizzy shaft between the plastic bottom of the rotor interfere with that?  Not throwing any shade here, I just don't understand how that could make a difference. 

PS: Glad it's working now.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2022 at 11:42pm
Stan,
I don't know...  The old distributor rotor had rusted on the contact and also was rusted stuck on to the shaft.  The old rotor was some kind of Bakelite/plastic and shattered when I pried it off.   The shaft end inside the rotor was covered in rust.

The new rotor replacement rotor and the old rotor both had a metal disk inside - I assumed that it was making some kind of contact that the "magical" electronic distributor used. that the old school Autolite distributors don't.  After reading you post I went and pulled an additional spare electronic distributor's rotor and checked it for continuity - hoping to discover some contact from the inner to the outer metal parts of  this rotor.  The meter shows no continuity.

So this myth is busted.  The fix must have been completely the new rotors top contact.

Thanks,
Bob


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2022 at 10:45am
OK - New adventure - my daughter just purchased a 1948 CJ2A.  Should be interesting.

This Jeep was one of Ric Megly's (Mighty Mo) final projects that he did not get to finish before he passed.  The man I call "The Jeep Whisperer" here in Ohio did a major labor of love and finished it.  Thanks John very impressive tribute.  John poured hours and parts into finishing it as Ric would have done. 

Details:
1948 with new sheet metal, a V6 from a CJ5, Synchronized 3 speed, T90 with overdrive, CJ5 front disc brakes, 10" rear drums.  Early Bubba Saginaw steering.  Front spring have a 1.25" block between the frame.  Remarkable paint job, modern fused wiring and is really a thing of beauty.

There are projects:
Brakes need to be sorted out.
Fuel pump
Overdrive pops out of low ranges.
Saginaw Steering - needs to be sorted out - Mount, angles, shaft, welds ... all old school home shop welds??  Needs love.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2022 at 10:54am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2022 at 10:55am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2022 at 3:52pm
Looks like a great Jeep!  She's miles ahead of where most of start.

-Barry
1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
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1946 CJ2A 36723
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2022 at 10:41am

Added an old school 102" whip antenna to my old school CB radio.   It really works well.  




Edited by Stev - 21 Oct. 2022 at 10:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2022 at 11:16am
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

"Old beater jeeps" are my favorite. You get to drive them and have fun, not just look at them.

 +1  
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb. 2023 at 2:19pm

This might be of interest to people who want to build a early full floating rear end with drive flanges or lockout hubs.

This is a really old project (1998) that I got a PM question on recently (2/2023).  I set out to build a full floating rear end with a slide locker and locking hubs.  This would allow for flat towing and locking of the rear axle.  

The slide locker  -locked up the spiders in the differential by moving the short side axle across into the opposite sides side gear.   It could be engaged or disengaged by moving the short axle about 1/2".  Karl of Vernco fame had a similar axle on his CJ2A back in the early 1990s.

The spindles were standard Dana 25/27 (front) that were turned down so they would bolt to a early Dana 41/44 rear axle housing.  Standard front hubs and lockouts / drive flanges could then be installed.

The test axle shafts were welded in the center to get splines on both ends.
The axles for actual use, started out as Willys truck or wagon axles that were trimmed to length, turned to the correct end diameter and then splines were cut into them.  Cutting the splines was a real challenge.  It is really important to get the tolerances correct on the splines.


These these are pictures of the test axles and of the actual finished axles front that project.  It is amazing the stuff you can hold on to is you have storage space.




Edited by Stev - 06 Feb. 2023 at 2:32pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2023 at 9:08am
I continue to have issues with Starter Bendix(s) on the 1946.  This will be the third one that has come apart of the past years (Read 1,000 miles).  The other two times it was the bolt that secures the Bendix to the starter main shaft.  When it, goes it sounds like one of the connecting rods has come off of the crank and is banging.  Once you crank through the banging the Jeep starts and runs fine.

Edited by Stev - 15 Mar. 2023 at 9:10am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Mar. 2023 at 10:22am
I am considering Locktite Blue on the Bendix bolt.  Has anyone ever tried Locktite on their starter?
Stev
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