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The Power of the Dark Side (Dauntless 225)
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52 M38 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Apr. 2015 at 8:52pm
I am shifting my post from tech question "Dauntless Advice" to here.  I have plans of building a complete second Engine-trans-xfer.  My currently one is close to original, and I have all of the original parts.  I needed something to continue tinkering and have always wondered about "The Power of the Dark Side," when it comes to the oddfire.  I have made an appointment to drop the engine off at the machine shop on Tuesday for a clean and mic.  I have to clean my xfer case some more and then put in new seals.  I have bought a T15 and am waiting on delivery.  I plan for this build to take about a year.  My jeep is running like a monster so this is just a side project.






Edited by 52 M38 - 26 Apr. 2015 at 9:24pm
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Points: 4184 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2015 at 9:24pm
The Dauntless like all Jeep engines is certainly a fun engine to build.
Nothing difficult. Just basic old school V-engine design.
Yes I also tend to build up spare engines and drivetrain assemblies.
Gives me build options to have extra assemblies.
 
Depends on how the Jeep is used but for my needs the stock Dauntless (non modified) is the way to go.
Swapping out the standard engine components is only of benefit if one plans to operate the engine at higher RPM. 
(Any sustained RPM that is notably beyond the max torque output of 2400)
Increasing the engine RPM operating range will always yield to a shortened service life.
If one needs more power than supplied then they really should have opted for increased displacement.
Due to it's much lighter flywheel the 198 Fireball can feasibly outperform the Dauntless.
 
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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52 M38 View Drop Down
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Points: 1286 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2015 at 9:33pm
I am sure the dauntless will have more than enough available power.  I have yet to find an offroad situation that I could not overcome with the L134, and a poorly performing dauntless has twice the power of the L134.  I will have to be careful not to break stuff.
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52 M38 View Drop Down
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Another problem I need to solve will be making the dipstick in the 225 watertight.  It is a very simple dip stick with just a hole in the block, not recessed or milled in any way.  The dipstick itself is also simple with just a concave washer on the top curved away from the block.  My thought is to make a mold slightly larger than the dipstick hole and cure some RTV onto the at the top of the dipstick to include a slight skin of it on the bottom of the washer.  I think this would probably be watertight enough for my purposes.  All of the other engine vents will just be connected into the intake so I only have one point of access to worry about water infiltration.  I will have to do some more reading up on the T15 to figure out how to keep that water tight.  Any other simple ideas for sealing the dipstick would be appreciated.
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Points: 137 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harry E Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2015 at 12:47am
hi 52 m38
it looks like we are in the same boat. I just finished my transfer case and bolted it to the t15 trans today. the 225 is at the machine shop. I am planning on starting on the frame soon. it will be a long proses I know but will be worth the work. I cant wait to see how the 225 will be. a lot of long hills around here. I am hoping on not slowing down at all on some of them. my 1960 cj5 with the f head really struggles on hills.

I need some left angle rocker arms if you happen to know were I could find some. just picked up a full set of rights last week.   

Harry E
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Harry,
There are a few guys on here that have some 225 parts.  I have had some luck with craigslist, there currently is a gentlemen in NH with a parted out 225.  He might have what you are looking for.  Have you decided on an adapter yet for the 225 to T15?  I am hoping that my engine will be just a simple re-ring and new bearing, but we shall see.  I know the heads will need some work, but the last thing I want to do it have a full burn-down and restore.  Anything else I have been working with TA Performance.  They have all of the stuff you could ever want, but they are not inexpensive.
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.

I love it on the dark side. LOL   
 
Currently my '2A has 225, T-90, D18,  5:38s in axles and OD.    I have another 225 with only 40k miles,  preserved away,  a SM420, adaptor, D300 xfer,  and flanged-axle D44 with 3.73  . . hopefully one day this combination will be installed,  but as long as my current setup works, the priority for swapping never gets high enough.
 
Yesterday I took my '2A for a drive to visit some old friends.  It was approx 15 miles thru some very scenic hilly backroads.  The Dauntless was never lacking for power,  I love low-rpm pulls.    After arriving, a group wanted to take a spin on some trails.   With 5 bodies in the Jeep,  I thought it was cool how effortlessly it traversed some rough terrain,  basically idling thru the rough spots.   The dark dauntless works very well in a '2A. Smile
 
 


Edited by JeepFever - 04 Apr. 2021 at 5:02am
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The Dauntless 225 is nearly ideal for a SWB Jeep. My 2A is mosty stock, but I have a Dauntless  (freshly rebuilt) on a stand in the garage, with an SM420 standing nearby. Maybe one day I'll drop it in the 2A, but more likely I'll just start another build. I have headers and a Offenhauser intake for the V6 and am starting to think about the virtues of TBI for a rough country Jeep. And I am thinking about a CJ6 build with this engine and the 420 or T19 with  D300 and FF rear...
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hi 52 m38
I got an adaptor from advance adapters. jeep t15 3 speed transmissions 1972- 1975 to chevy & buick engines. it looks good and comes with a front Bering retainer extension and pilot Bering. the instructions say that you must cut off the original Bering retainer to 1 3/4 inches. the extension bolts to the opposite side of the adapter and makes up for the tube that has been cut off. advance adapter p/n 712510

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My AA T15 adapter has  "CJ  514" embossed onto the casting.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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I installed my TA Performance high volume oil pump kit tonight.  What is supposed to be a simple kit was actually very involved.  The tolerances in my oil pump housing were so tight it was very hard to fit the shims in to hold the spacer so it could be drilled properly.  Once that bridge was crossed then when I would try to torque to screws that hold the cover, the pump would not turn anymore.  I sat and very patiently would sand the gear faces, test fit, and repeat about a dozen times so I didn't over shoot on the sanding.  It appears to be a nice tight tolerance now, but still spins freely.  Next project tomorrow night is to install the new front crank seal. 


Edited by 52 M38 - 30 Apr. 2015 at 5:13pm
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Are you going to install the rope seal or have the timing cover machined to accept a modern rubber seal?
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No need to "machine" the timing cover.
One simple removes the steel packing ring that is "staked" into the aluminum cover.
Then remove any burrs and fit the neoprene seal using Permatex.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Originally posted by otto otto wrote:

Are you going to install the rope seal or have the timing cover machined to accept a modern rubber seal?
 
I am going with a modern seal.  As already described i have to file off the crimps that held in the old rope seal, but it doesn't look to be too much of an issue.  All of the seals I put in stuff are modern.  i have no nestalgia for drips and leaks.
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Originally posted by JeepFever JeepFever wrote:

The Dauntless was never lacking for power,  I love low-rpm pulls.    While visiting, a group wanted to take a spin.   With 5 bodies in the Jeep,  I thought it was cool how effortlessly it traversed some rough terrain,  basically idling thru the rough spots.


Do you have the stock super heavy CJ5 flywheel?  I have been thinking about having it lightened by about 10%.
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Originally posted by 52 M38 52 M38 wrote:

Originally posted by JeepFever JeepFever wrote:

The Dauntless was never lacking for power,  I love low-rpm pulls.    While visiting, a group wanted to take a spin.   With 5 bodies in the Jeep,  I thought it was cool how effortlessly it traversed some rough terrain,  basically idling thru the rough spots.


Do you have the stock super heavy CJ5 flywheel?  I have been thinking about having it lightened by about 10%.
 
Honestly, I do not know for sure.  This engine was in the Jeep when I acquired 20+ years ago.  I have always assumed it did,  because when I had it apart (way-back-then) - >  the flywheel seemed awfully heavy Smile. .  Plus,  in operation, it seems to have a lot of inertia . .  difficult to stall out. 
 
Are you thinking of lightening for better acceleration?   For on-road that might be better,  but off-road,  I prefer the heavy flywheel.   I can remember times going so slow that I could almost feel every cylinder fire,  hit a rock and think for sure it would stall,  only to have it roll forward just enough for the next one to fire.  With a light flywheel, it would have stalled for sure.
 
 
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I will be working on my front cover soon as the block and heads should be back from the machine shop soon. is there a part number or seal number for the seals you guys are using in the 225 cover. I definitely want to use the modern type seal.

thanks for any help.
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The stock (rope seal) GM part numbers are
Front crankshaft seal GM # 1193965
Rear crankshaft seal GM # 1192796
 
I have both Victor and Felpro crankshaft seals at home.
I'll check on those part numbers
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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