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The Power of the Dark Side (Dauntless 225) |
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oldtime 
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4185 |
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 Posted: 06 May 2015 at 4:01pm |
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Front neoprene seals Victor 65025SF, Felpro 15200, National 710163
Rear neoprene seals Victor JV742R, Felpro BS40613, Mc Cord BS322 I have a new unopened Dana Spicer full gasket set for Dauntless 225. It comes with neoprene crankshaft seals, I'll sell it for $100 plus shipping
Edited by oldtime - 06 May 2015 at 4:14pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 07 May 2015 at 9:14pm |
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Well good news on the engine. Cylinders just needed to be honed, pistons, and con-rods are all good. Heads are in perfect condition so not doing anything with the seats. I will just re-lap the valves. New bearings all around. Cam is junk, but I mixed up the lifters anyways so that was a going to be new anyways. I will post some pictures when I pick it up next week.
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harry E
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Joined: 23 Nov. 2013 Location: Johnstown, NY Status: Offline Points: 137 |
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Posted: 08 May 2015 at 6:33pm |
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thanks for the seal numbers old time. i dident know that the rear crank seal could also be changed. are any modifacations required to change the rear seal?
thanks Harry E |
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Harry Eisenhauer
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4185 |
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Posted: 08 May 2015 at 10:14pm |
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No changes are required to install a neoprene rear main seal.
The Felpro complete gasket sets for D225 are only available with rope type seals. If you buy a full Felpro set then you will want to source the additional neoprene seals. Victor and Dana Spicer full gasket sets for D225 include the neoprene type seals.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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harry E
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Joined: 23 Nov. 2013 Location: Johnstown, NY Status: Offline Points: 137 |
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Posted: 09 May 2015 at 1:08am |
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the kit I got for the 225 is a felpro kit. I will try to get the better seals. thanks for the imfo.
Harry E |
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Harry Eisenhauer
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 09 May 2015 at 2:08am |
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The plan is to pick up the majority of the engine on Tuesday. I am going to use total seal rings so I need to have valve stem seals added since they were not OE. That will require a touch more machining. I will would like to assemble the long block in the basement and then take it out before it becomes too heavy to move. I think I will replace the cam with a Comp cam built for low rpm. I am contemplating an HEI distributor.
Edited by 52 M38 - 09 May 2015 at 9:38pm |
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4185 |
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Posted: 09 May 2015 at 3:35pm |
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If one is after low RPM torque they can do no better than a stock profile camshaft.
The stock camshaft duration is already ideal for low rpm use and produces the absolute smoothest possible idle. That said many people claim that the Comp cam 252H yields better mid range (2400 RPM) without effecting low range use.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 09 May 2015 at 9:14pm |
The comp 252H is exactly what I plan to use. I need to pace my budget through this rebuild. Summit has a kit with lifters for $190. The plan is to only due about $2-300 a month on the whole project of engine/trans/xfer. |
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 16 May 2015 at 12:08am |
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I was wondering if anyone has a link to a good guide for valve lapping. I am going to start assembling the heads and need to lap the valves.
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 18 May 2015 at 12:16am |
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I lapped the valves today, cleaned it all up and installed the valves. It was very simple to do since everything was in perfect shape and cleaned.
   Edited by 52 M38 - 18 May 2015 at 12:18am |
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 20 May 2015 at 1:13am |
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I had an excellent drive tonight with the dog riding shotgun. I do not know if I will have the heart to swap out my L134 when all is said and done. I enjoyed the drive just as it was.
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oldtime
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Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4185 |
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Posted: 20 May 2015 at 4:34pm |
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Just my opinion here but if one does not need the Dauntless engine or any other modification for that matter then it's pretty foolish to swap parts around just because you can.
I've been daily driving the flat fender CJ's with stock engines ever since the mid 1970's. I take them anywhere and everywhere and it's way past time for me to increase the engine output. When I finally got back to the midwest from a long trip to California in 1981 I switched over exclusively to the F heads. I started to go Dauntless back in the mid 1980's and put it all on hold. I am just now getting around to installing Dauntless power after many, many years of running the original Willys engines. But like I say these are daily drivers for me and I truely need the power to keep up. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Mike S
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Joined: 20 May 2006 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 2318 |
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Posted: 20 May 2015 at 8:47pm |
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Rebuilding my 2A I had two L134s and a Dauntless on hand. Decided to rebuild one of the L134s and save the Dauntless for a CJ6 project. Glad I did… my 2A is "original" & all new, and I expect the rebuilt engine, T90C, and D18 to provide another 65 years of service.
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'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear Lock-Right locker 11" drum brakes Dual master cylinder T90C Transmission 16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels Cooper STT Pro tires |
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 22 May 2015 at 10:13pm |
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I put the crank and pistons into the block. Once I removed my protective bodily coating of assembly lube I gave everything a few good rotations and it turns super smoothly. I cleaned up my valve covers a bit and took off the three hideous tabs that used to ineffectively hold the plug wires. I think I am going to paint the engine the same green as the jeep.
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 21 July 2015 at 11:03pm |
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This reminds me of the partially assembled Death Star.
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Tom in RI
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Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: RI Status: Offline Points: 1126 |
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Posted: 22 July 2015 at 2:16am |
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What is the easy 225 exhaust manifold route for a flat fender? The CJ5 has the forward dump manifold on the drivers side to avoid the MC and steering gear.
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flatfender47
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Posted: 22 July 2015 at 8:55pm |
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Headers if you already have or are planning a steering conversion.
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 22 July 2015 at 11:19pm |
Not what I wanted to hear. Those are crazy pricey. |
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oldtime wrote: