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The Power of the Dark Side (Dauntless 225)

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WeeWilly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2015 at 2:49am
   I made one for my son's jeep (mock M38) that has a 225 V6 using a military ammo can.  we took the can into a local auto parts store and found a rectangular filter that fits  the can nice sitting in it at a angle.. A channel was riveted in each end of the can at angle to slide the filter in from the top. A slot about 1" wide was cut out of the bottom the length and close to one side to allow air to flow up through the filter into the tube that was attached toward the top on the opposite side. A cj2a carb horn with a hole drilled in the top and a little grinding to the top of the rochester carb to hold it on with a screw. Flex hose and a couple brackets to mount it to the pass fender.  To change the filter just unlatch and open lid for easy access.  I think the ammo can was a 30 cal.

   Jim
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2015 at 3:02am
.
If I remember correctly  (installed 25 years ago),   mine is the stock air filter housing from a '65 Oldsmobile (with 225).  

 Let me know if you would like pics.  (of a very primitive engine bay LOL )  
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52 M38 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug. 2015 at 1:29am
Moved the engine from the stand to a cradle this afternoon.  Preparing to add the flywheel and starter.  Hoping for initial light off before winter.  I noticed that I am missing the lower bellhousing cover, if anyone has one. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2015 at 10:40pm
I am trying to put US made parts into this engine.  Some of that is proving difficult.  I want a US made water pump which did not leave many options.  The standard US made pumps were about $95 shipped.  I broke down and bought a Flowkooler performance pump for $120 OUCH. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep. 2015 at 4:53am
Just something I noticed reading through your build. Your motor didn't have the cam button and thrust washer, and the camshaft was the only shot part when you first had the engine checked out. I'd definitely add the parts.
My thought is that an hour or two of labor now may significantly extend the service life of the motor. I'd be all for it. I wouldn't be happy about going back to do it, but I would.
That said, I can't wait to see videos of when it's finished!
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
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rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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52 M38 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Sep. 2015 at 11:35am
I did go back and put one in.  That is an interesting observation though.  It was the edges of the cam that were wiped out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep. 2015 at 11:55pm
Solved a couple of ancillary issues today.  My replacement starter did not have a hole for the support bracket that connects to the block, so I drilled a hole, tapped it and now it does (NAPA lifetime warranty) .  I am still holding to the fact that my M38 will stay 24 volt.  I have found places on the 225 to mount my M38 coolant temp and oil pressure senders.  In the future my gauges can lie to me about a different engine.  I think the only thing I need to drop the voltage for will be the distributor, unless I can do something creative with one of my 24 volt coils.  I plan to use the starter at 24 volts as long as it will take it (once again, lifetime warranty).

Does anyone know if all of the 1/4" plugs on either side of the block are oil galleys?  One of them might provide an even better mounting point for the oil pressure sender.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep. 2015 at 11:39pm
In a moment of evil genius tonight I made a prototype for running the dauntless distributor at 24 volts.  Below is what I came up with.  One end is the spring end off of an old military generator.  I mangled it so that it would thread into the plug wire, the boot fits perfectly into the Autolight 24 volt coil.  I have a spare 24 volt condenser hidden it my parts stash that I will load in the distributor.  I do not plan to use the half melted very old wire, I will replace it when I replace the other plug wires. 





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2015 at 1:09am
Hmm - just wondering.  how does the V6 swap affect value.  My stock 2A with an OD does everything I need it to.  I plow snow with her in the winter (NH) and put her in parades in the summer.  she does it all and never skips a beat!  My friends tell me to buy a Wrangler to plow with so I can  save my restored 46 and I say I can't find one without a ton of rust - ha
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep. 2015 at 1:17am
My original engine has been full of headaches and it continues to be.  It is a monster when it runs right.  I will say this.  I am not worried about resale value, I have built this toy for me and my kids.  If one is worried about resale value find another hobby or just bury money in the yard, it would be cheaper. 


Edited by 52 M38 - 06 Sep. 2015 at 1:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep. 2015 at 10:19pm
Originally posted by 52 M38 52 M38 wrote:

I am trying to put US made parts into this engine.  Some of that is proving difficult.  I want a US made water pump which did not leave many options.  The standard US made pumps were about $95 shipped.  I broke down and bought a Flowkooler performance pump for $120 OUCH. 


Some disappointment to report.  Despite the fact that Flowkooler states that they make there stuff in CA, my new, very expensive, waterpump has Japan stamped on the front of the housing.  I sent a polite, hate message to Flowkooler asking WTF and will let you know what they say.  I know Japan an CA do share an ocean, but it seems a bit of a stretch to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep. 2015 at 12:04am
Their reply:

Justin -
The majority of our customers contact us because they need to cool their engines.  It is our impeller design that generates the flow rates and provides the block pressure they need.

Our aluminum comes out of Los Angeles, we machine in Paso Robles, anodized in Fresno and assembled again in Paso Robles. Operating a foundry in California (in the US for that matter) would drive the price of the water pumps out of reach for most of our customers.

I appreciate the comment and wish more people were willing to pay more for 100% US made products.  We introduced a rebuild service primarily for numbers matching car owners and/or obsolete castings.  The cost is generally more and the lead time is a few weeks longer. You are welcome to send us a US made casting and we will rebuild it with our US made impellers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep. 2015 at 12:53am
That's sad news on the water pump you got.
FYI... I have a real nice USA rebuilt water pump for $20 posted over here:
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep. 2015 at 1:09am
With the implosion of my SS head, the 225 has been pushed up to on deck circle.  I am re-installing my original M38 head, but I am done fiddling with the flat head.  This engine has been plagued with problems that just never end.  It is a beast when it goes, but it is always a crap shoot as to if it will squeal the tires or come apart at the seams. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr. 2021 at 9:44pm
It has been a short 5ish years and I never started the engine, I thought to myself why not give it a quick try today.  I tried it a year or so ago and no dice.  I went back over all the timing notes and made sure I had it set up properly.  I was looking at the distributor and realized why it didn’t start in the past.  I have an even fire distributor cover.  I ordered an HEI distributor just for the heck of it.  I’m sure it will be running soon.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncamoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr. 2021 at 9:56pm
It's interesting you are having issues. My dauntles motors have never gave me a problem and the Fireball 198 would out run about anything on the road.
john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr. 2021 at 10:11pm
There are no issues, just me not paying attention.  I have not really put any effort into getting it going.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncamoney Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr. 2021 at 10:37pm
As my neighbor would tell me "Get out there and fix it".
I rebuilt a 327 in my fathers truck, back to being a Corvette motor. VWs, Volvos?
You just do the right thing.
john
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