Threads & fittings for oil, fuel, crankcase lines

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   I just finished connecting all of my oil lines and the fuel line from pump to carb and am working on the crankcase ventilation. I thought I'd post the sizes of the parts that I sourced locally (O'Reilly and NAPA) in case someone finds this post using search.
Thread sizes

Most of the ports in the block, in the fuel pump are 1/8" mnpt (pipe) thread.
There are also ports in the manifold (towards rear, for vacuum source), and both crankcase ventilation valves, they are also 1/8" mnpt
You have to have a fitting in every port because you cannot just screw a flare connector into a hole, it needs to have a flare inside the hole to "mate with".

Oil Filter Lines

Filter housing on the side: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, straight fitting; connect the longer oil line from it to driver side of the block, route it through the "loop" that is a part of the bracket that holds the oil filter.

Filter housing, bottom: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting; connect the shorter oil from it to the timing cover.

Block, driver side, under the fuel pump: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting, connects to the longer oil hose.

Timing cover: has the 1/4" flare fitting, I didn't remove mine, don't know if it's removable.

Oil lines, 1 short, 1 long, flexible, both have 1/4 flare male fittings on either end.

Oil Gauge Lines

Block, rear of driver side: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting; connects to the flexible oil line.

The other end of the flex line connects to a steel line and the steel line connects to the pressure gauge. The steel line has two female flare fittings on both ends, so, cannot be replaced with just a standard brake line but can probably be manufactured easily.

Fuel line, pump to carburetor

Fuel pump inlet (towards front of motor): 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, straight fitting; connects to the flexible fuel line.

Fuel pump outlet (towards rear of motor): 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting; connects to a hard line that goes to the carb.

Carburetor inlet: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting.

Line from pump to carb: I used a 20" long 1/4" brake line, 1/4" flare on both sides, looks like a good fit; you could probably use an 18" line if you can find (or make) one.

Crankcase ventilation line

Here is where you are starting to think "aha, they are all 1/4 inch!"... Nope! 

Crankcase valve: 1/8" mnpt x 5/16" flare elbow fitting

Manifold valve: 1/8" mnpt x 5/16" flare elbow fitting

Hard line between them: I am using a 12" long, 5/16" steel line from NAPA, looks like just about the perfect fit.

Manifold

There is a port to the rear of the manifold where the vacuum hookup goes (presumably for the wipers). For now, I just put a 1/8" mnpt brass plug in it.

Head

I blocked the heater hole with a 3/8" mnpt brass plug while I am welding up the tub which is off the jeep at the moment.

Part Numbers and Sources

1/8" mnpt x 1/4 flare fitting, elbow - Edelmann #122420 (O'Reilly), NAPA also has them
1/8" mnpt x 1/4 flare fitting, straight - Edelmann #124420 (O'Reilly), NAPA also has them

For temporary tank hook-up, on the inlet side of the pump I used Dorman #785-410D, its a brass 1/8" mnpt x 1/4 barb

3/8" mnpt plug - O'Reilly

1/4" mnpt plug - O"Reilly

Flex oil hoses (2 short, 1 long) - I had to mail order those from Ron Fitzpatrick.

Steel lines - I bought all of mine at NAPA. On the short end of the length spectrum they seemed to have a good selection.

One thing to keep in mind: the NAPA lines are all coated steel, while the Advance Auto's, for example, are all cupro-nickel. 

I used their cupro-nickel lines to do the brake line runs from the master cylinder to front and back - they are easy to bend and you can cut and re-flare one end (I had to).

The steel lines -- I just can't flare them with the hand held flare tool, they are way too hard. Also, bending a 5/16" steel line is not exactly trivial.

Edited by konstan - 15 Aug. 2018 at 6:16pm

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konstan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 22 Aug. 2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 351	Post Options Post Reply Quote konstan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Threads & fittings for oil, fuel, crankcase lines Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 4:29pm
	I just finished connecting all of my oil lines and the fuel line from pump to carb and am working on the crankcase ventilation. I thought I'd post the sizes of the parts that I sourced locally (O'Reilly and NAPA) in case someone finds this post using search. Thread sizes Most of the ports in the block, in the fuel pump are 1/8" mnpt (pipe) thread. There are also ports in the manifold (towards rear, for vacuum source), and both crankcase ventilation valves, they are also 1/8" mnpt You have to have a fitting in every port because you cannot just screw a flare connector into a hole, it needs to have a flare inside the hole to "mate with". Oil Filter Lines Filter housing on the side: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, straight fitting; connect the longer oil line from it to driver side of the block, route it through the "loop" that is a part of the bracket that holds the oil filter. Filter housing, bottom: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting; connect the shorter oil from it to the timing cover. Block, driver side, under the fuel pump: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting, connects to the longer oil hose. Timing cover: has the 1/4" flare fitting, I didn't remove mine, don't know if it's removable. Oil lines, 1 short, 1 long, flexible, both have 1/4 flare male fittings on either end. Oil Gauge Lines Block, rear of driver side: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting; connects to the flexible oil line. The other end of the flex line connects to a steel line and the steel line connects to the pressure gauge. The steel line has two female flare fittings on both ends, so, cannot be replaced with just a standard brake line but can probably be manufactured easily. Fuel line, pump to carburetor Fuel pump inlet (towards front of motor): 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, straight fitting; connects to the flexible fuel line. Fuel pump outlet (towards rear of motor): 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting; connects to a hard line that goes to the carb. Carburetor inlet: 1/8" mnpt x 1/4" flare, elbow fitting. Line from pump to carb: I used a 20" long 1/4" brake line, 1/4" flare on both sides, looks like a good fit; you could probably use an 18" line if you can find (or make) one. Crankcase ventilation line Here is where you are starting to think "aha, they are all 1/4 inch!"... Nope! Crankcase valve: 1/8" mnpt x 5/16" flare elbow fitting Manifold valve: 1/8" mnpt x 5/16" flare elbow fitting Hard line between them: I am using a 12" long, 5/16" steel line from NAPA, looks like just about the perfect fit. Manifold There is a port to the rear of the manifold where the vacuum hookup goes (presumably for the wipers). For now, I just put a 1/8" mnpt brass plug in it. Head I blocked the heater hole with a 3/8" mnpt brass plug while I am welding up the tub which is off the jeep at the moment. Part Numbers and Sources 1/8" mnpt x 1/4 flare fitting, elbow - Edelmann #122420 (O'Reilly), NAPA also has them 1/8" mnpt x 1/4 flare fitting, straight - Edelmann #124420 (O'Reilly), NAPA also has them For temporary tank hook-up, on the inlet side of the pump I used Dorman #785-410D, its a brass 1/8" mnpt x 1/4 barb 3/8" mnpt plug - O'Reilly 1/4" mnpt plug - O"Reilly Flex oil hoses (2 short, 1 long) - I had to mail order those from Ron Fitzpatrick. Steel lines - I bought all of mine at NAPA. On the short end of the length spectrum they seemed to have a good selection. One thing to keep in mind: the NAPA lines are all coated steel, while the Advance Auto's, for example, are all cupro-nickel. I used their cupro-nickel lines to do the brake line runs from the master cylinder to front and back - they are easy to bend and you can cut and re-flare one end (I had to). The steel lines -- I just can't flare them with the hand held flare tool, they are way too hard. Also, bending a 5/16" steel line is not exactly trivial. Edited by konstan - 15 Aug. 2018 at 6:16pm

konstan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 22 Aug. 2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 351	Post Options Post Reply Quote konstan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 4:30pm
	I will post some part numbers when I get home, and maybe take some pics. I consider myself still new to willys, so, if I made any errors in my post above, please feel free to correct me and I will edit the original post. Edited by konstan - 15 Aug. 2018 at 4:32pm

ggordon49 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 30 June 2017 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 1437	Post Options Post Reply Quote ggordon49 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 4:39pm
	Nice write up
	- Don't Let The Fatherless Ones Grind You Down - - I like them stock, survivor's with original paint are my favorites -

alaskanrocket Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 17 Feb. 2010 Location: Alaska Status: Offline Points: 112	Post Options Post Reply Quote alaskanrocket Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 6:34pm
	Thanks Konstan! This should be put in the tech section as I see questions about this asked a lot.

Stev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 27 July 2016 Location: Cincinnati Status: Offline Points: 2391	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 7:05pm
	Konstan, Nice work. I would suggest you keep any plugs or fitting you remove in case some day you want to do a historical rebuild. If you don't think you will ever do a historical rebuild you probably could post them on the parts board of The 2A Page and someone just might purchase them from you who is doing a historical rebuild.
	Stev 1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored

konstan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 22 Aug. 2016 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 351	Post Options Post Reply Quote konstan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Aug. 2018 at 7:19pm
	By historical rebuild, do you mean not only using the correct parts but actually finding those parts that were actually made back then? Yea I have a box of stuff left over... for example, the master cylinder core, stuff like that.

FarmallFan44 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 11 Oct. 2018 Location: Lizana, MS Status: Offline Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote FarmallFan44 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 June 2019 at 12:19am
	Holy Cow! Wow! Is that ever useful. I am just starting the process of putting back together, the right way, my CJ2A motor and you sir have saved me a lot of measuring, guessing and research. I had just completed making a preliminary list of what i needed in all of these places and am now prepared to just go get the parts without sorting through all of the junk I took off and threw over my shoulder. Thank you. PS This site is an amazing resource, I could have not gotten as far as I have without all of the excellent advice and information I have found here.
	Dave 47, 50, 53 Farmalls 46 CJ2A

48walker Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 17 Mar. 2017 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 366	Post Options Post Reply Quote 48walker Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 June 2019 at 1:04am
	Great information