Took me 6 years, but I finally got one

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Thanks for the advice Mike, I talked to Jeff today and he gave me
very similar advice.

After the carb
change, I had more power, but then something changed, and I was
lacking power all the sudden.  It kept getting worse to where it
didn’t want to idle even more than before.  That’s when I took it
to a friends house and we did the pressure test.

After the initial
frustration, I got over it and started troubleshooting.  With the
valve guide off, I took a photo and sent it to Rick.  He sent this
back.  He noticed right away the valves were not in line with the
tappets, once he pointed it out, I could see it to.

I didn’t think I
was going to use the automotive plugs that Andrew installed so
quickly, but here we are.  I’m grateful for sure, I was able to
disconnect a few bolts, unplug some plugs, and bam, electrical out of
the way.

I had a ton of
trouble getting my head off the block.  I think the bolts were either
gummed up or warped.  Whatever it was, I had a 2x4 and a ratchet
strap and all my might pulling up and it wouldn’t budge.  Even
putting in wooden shims all the way around I was still fighting it. 
Finally I gave up, got out a 3/8 bolt remover, and went to town
removing studs.  The head came right off.  

I’ve checked the
cylinders for size, and it looks like I’m .060 over.  I also
checked for roundness and I’m within tolerances.

Bore size 90 degrees
apart:
Cylinder 1:  3.1775
/ 3.180

Cylinder 2: 3.1835 / 3.183

Cylinder 3: 3.178 /
3.180

Cylinder 4: 3.180 / 3.184

I then checked every
cylinder as best as possible they all look good except for #2, it has
a ring of pitting or rust that I can feel running my fingernail
across it, but not my finger.  It looks like eventually I’ll need
to re-hone the cylinders.  I’m not an expert, but I can’t see
where the valve seats have been replaced.  They look original.  With
this in mind, eventually I’ll need to do a complete engine rebuild.

On to the valves, I
took 2 very close pictures of the valves for cylinder 2 and 4.  They
are both visibly not lining up, and you can tell when they are seated
that they are crooked.  

I put an order in
tonight to replace the valves, valve guides, spring, retainer clip,
spring retainer, and tappet adjuster for the 2 exhaust valves.  I
also ordered the same thing for the #3 cylinder intake valve because
the spring is crooked.  A copper gasket, and an oil pan gasket to
clean up after the mess I make.  I have an 8” valve compressor on
the way, and will be getting some lapping compound to do a bit of
sanding between the new valves and old valve seats.  

I’ve seen it
mentioned that the studs should be installed with a specific tool,
but don’t know the name of the tool or the size that is needed for
the head studs.  I’m also wondering what the correct size is for a
thread cutter to clean out the threads in the block and the head.  

Well, now it’s
mostly a waiting game for the parts to get here.  I’m sure it will
take a while, and then there will be a rush to get everything ready
for FCT.  I guess I’ll have plenty of time to clean the head and
block.