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Building a Universal Modified

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jpet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Building a Universal Modified
    Posted: Yesterday at 1:14pm
... hey, BTW, What size is that snatch ring you are using in your YouTube video?

Edit: I could run those in CNC if I had some dimensions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 1:02pm
High-dive and Upchuck are both doable in a SWB with some careful lines. They are also both easy to bypass if you need to.

White knuckle hill on the other hand is a HUGE drop these days. That is what you would have driven by on the way out of Pritchett up Hunter canyon. You can drive around it but it adds a lot of distance to the trail.

Running Behind the Rock backwards in the new truck is one of my new projects...





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 8:43am
Behind the Rocks looks like a good one Hi Dive looks cool have to look it over first. Doing the entire Helldorado trail looks intriguing. This time of year the toughest obstacle for me and BAM BAM is Vail Pass Looks like Moab will have to wait till next Spring. For now, BAM BAM and I will be in the trees, mud, and ditches.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 12:23am
Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

Have you done Behind the Rocks yet? That is a 'fun' one for a SWB. 


Closest we’ve gotten to that was driving by on the way out of Pritchett.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 12:11am
Have you done Behind the Rocks yet? That is a 'fun' one for a SWB. 


42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2018 at 11:19pm
I'm down for Rusty Nail. Let me know when. 

The Currie's had something back in the day they called 'the secret weapon' on one of their red comp TJs. It was basically a retracting air cylinder connected to a winch line that ran to the front axle. They hit a switch and it would suck down the front axle, it was very similar in action to how we think about a suck down winch these days. The same concept could be doubled up for control over each front tire or both at the same time. Getting the cylinder large enough in diameter for the 'retract' function to be strong enough was the hard part from what I remember. It was a neat system. With the ability to dial in the air pressure you could make it almost act like a negative rate spring which could be nice too.

Chewy makes you feel like you are way up there and sideways at the top for sure. Axle hill is my least favorite. I need more gearing to make the upper part smoother. 



 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2018 at 8:38am
Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

How did the new mods work out? ....
I don’t know that the mods helped me or not on Pritchett. I definitely didn’t hang up on any obstacles. The main trouble I had on Rocker Knocker the last time was that I simply was not turning hard driver the entire time. This time, I was hard driver. If you listen to the video, you hear a popping sound as I’m crabbing to the v-notch. That is my tire lug hitting the back of the springs. If there was anything mechanically I did that made a difference, it was that I attached a strap from the front axle passenger side to the frame to hold the chassis from unloading. I attached the strap before running the obstacle. I feel like I can do it every time now. The recipe is 3 wheels on the ledge, hard driver, low gear.

Quote ..... What's next? .....
I want to integrate my front windshield into the roll cage so that it still looks stock, but if I roll, it doesn’t break off. I also want to raise it a couple inches for better vision. I’m thinking about a poly windshield where the whole front can be removed.   I think my biggest mechanical issue is unloading on hill climbs:





..... the last set of changes I made have caused it to be a hassle to connect my winch to the front axle. I need to rethink that and come up with something simpler. I really wish I could pull either front corner down individually for climbing and let them go for rock gardens and such. I see a night and day difference on off camber climbs compared to Grandpas Jeep. Broken step was a struggle for me. I want to post a video, but I’m still looking for someone with footage of me actually making it. By the time I got over, everyone stopped filming . Stan did much better.

Of the entire trail, I felt like Chewy was the toughest/most dangerous obstacle.

Quote ...The way you guys are burning through trails in Moab, you should go hike RearSteer/Big Balls next so you have something to work on for a few years.
The next Moab trail I want on the resume’ is Rusty Nail. Stan and I have done all the 8 and 9 rated trails on the RR4W list:

Pritchett Canyon
Cliffhanger
Hell’s Revenge (Escalator)

.... all we need is Rusty Nail to complete the ensemble.

Edited by jpet - 16 Nov. 2018 at 8:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov. 2018 at 3:46pm
How did the new mods work out? What's next?

The way you guys are burning through trails in Moab, you should go hike RearSteer/Big Balls next so you have something to work on for a few years. Embarrassed


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2018 at 8:52am
Originally posted by chasendeer chasendeer wrote:

Did the Dana 18 help you out at all on this trip?
Jay
As far as clearance? ... I'm not really sure. I never got hung up on anything. As far as comfort to shift from 2WD to 4WD and low to hi, yes, much better.

Edit: the new fuel cell was MUCH better. No vapor locking, and No fumes coming up in the cab like I have had in the past. I need to coil my vent tube up some to keep gas from spilling out on steep climbs but other than that, VERY pleased.

Edited by jpet - 12 Nov. 2018 at 9:14am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasendeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov. 2018 at 12:35am
Did the Dana 18 help you out at all on this trip?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov. 2018 at 9:13pm
Originally posted by Metcalf Metcalf wrote:

Yup, sometimes the drivetrain just doesn't like going into front dig. I think having the rear locker open sometimes helps that. Having an automatic seems to make it more possible too. Slight changes in front to rear gear ratios could cause issues too. 
. In my case it doesn’t matter I had the same problem with the rear elocker when it was unlocked.
Quote ....Did you end up trying an automatic front locker and selectable rear locker yet? I know you fought some lock-unlock-lock issues with the Eaton unit. .....
still select/auto. I want to run the rear auto this winter on the pavement/snow to see for myself what the fuss is all about. Then I may go auto/auto, then auto/select so that I can analyze and compare every combo for myself. The problem with the Eaton elocker is that it tends to disengage without warning if the voltage drops. The solution seems to be to get rid of the connector at the pumpkin and solder the wires direct. On Pritchett 1.0 there were several instances where the elocker was disengaging. For Pritchett 2.0 I cut the connector out and soldered the wires. Problem solved. JeepFever, sonoblast77, and I have all had the same problem and resolved it by removing the connector.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov. 2018 at 3:57am
I believe you Lee. I’m surprised that it makes that much difference but I’m guessing it has been researched and tested.

Originally posted by LuzonRed47 LuzonRed47 wrote:


Every time I see detail photos of jpet's Bam Bam, all his smartly engineered upgrades, I think how it must piss off the originality snobs in the MVPA....
.... it shouldn’t. BAM BAM is a Jeep made of parts. Even though the title of the thread has the word “Modified”, no actual g503s were modified in the build.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee (MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2018 at 10:30pm
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

Originally posted by Lee (MN) Lee (MN) wrote:

... as the hub warms from use it gets slightly larger from expansion and the rollers in a tapered bearing will expand lengthwise not in diameter like a ball bearing, so as the hub expands the bearing looses a bit of its preload.
If the hub expands, wouldn't the bearings get tighter since the outer races are inboard? ... unless the dead shaft and hub expand equally.
Quote
2) on a “Live Shaft”, or one that turns, like an output shaft on a D-18, the shaft slightly increases in length due to heat, if you set the output shaft with preload and after the T/C warms up to it’s operating temp you will run the risk of overloading the bearing!, so if your running .004 of end play on the shaft at assembly odds are if you checked it at operating temp on a warm summer day you would find there would be little if any end play!
Why would the front hub expand with heat but the T'case box not expand? ... Why would a dead shaft not expand but a live shaft does?
Quote .... I’ve been into many gearboxes, swing boxes and final drives on heavy equipment over the years, .004-.006 is pretty common on most every “Live Shaft” situation.
If that is how its done with a live shaft, I'll believe it, but I still don't quite understand why a dead shaft wouldn't expand or contract any more or less that a live shaft. I don't doubt you, but it isn't clicking with me. Not that it is that important


Thanks for reading.


1) I believe your correct!...
2) I’m certainly no mechanical engineer 😮, but would assume the live shaft is doing the work, therefor creating the heat (?) and lacks the ability to loose the heat that the case does so maybe the expansion rate of the live shaft exceeds the expansion rate of the case... if so it may be the case with why the dead shaft doesn’t expand as the hub is doing the work creating the heat ?...

I guess at this point all I can offer is Joe Dirts Dads opinion, “How does a positraction rear end work on a Plymouth!, Who cares it just does!” 😂

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2018 at 9:46pm
Originally posted by LuzonRed47 LuzonRed47 wrote:

Every time I see detail photos of jpet's Bam Bam, all his smartly engineered upgrades, I think how it must piss off the originality snobs in the MVPA....


That's probably not hard to do...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LuzonRed47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2018 at 2:31pm
Every time I see detail photos of jpet's Bam Bam, all his smartly engineered upgrades, I think how it must piss off the originality snobs in the MVPA....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov. 2018 at 7:30am
If you switch to a diesel engine it will prevent the transfer case from making noise. haha! Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spinnas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2018 at 9:13pm
Those u-bolt plates are right on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Metcalf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2018 at 9:03pm
Yup, sometimes the drivetrain just doesn't like going into front dig. I think having the rear locker open sometimes helps that. Having an automatic seems to make it more possible too. Slight changes in front to rear gear ratios could cause issues too. 

Did you end up trying an automatic front locker and selectable rear locker yet? I know you fought some lock-unlock-lock issues with the Eaton unit. I don't have that issue with my OX-locker. Overall, I am still a very big proponent of this combo over other options. We are talking about small differences, but I still think there is a clear advantage. The only disadvantage I can see is that sometimes with an automatic front locker if the vehicle starts bouncing you can 'overrun' the tire causing the locker to ratchet. This isn't the best for the front shafts or locker. Here I am about 6 years later though without issues and my big wide dumb tires. 

The other thing that the rear open diff can let you do is to brake one tire or the other to help load the chassis one way or another. I've seen some people to crazy things with an open rear diff and cutting brakes. 

My new truck with the selectable-selectable-selectable combo is interesting. I still haven't got a great feel for it. It works, but I think its too many buttons to press when you need to be concentrating on other things. The ability to open the center diff adds something, but I'm not sure how useful it is yet. I have been able to do some sudo-front digs/burns with the center diff open and e-brake on the rear axle. That seems to let me shift the front end of the vehicle around a bit more. 

So many ideas to try, so little time. 


42 MB that had a one night stand with a much younger 69 CJ5 and a 50s GM truck.

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