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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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dasvis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: A little project update on Chug A Lug
    Posted: Yesterday at 1:11pm
Cool. 
Please post a photo of your kitchen setup once itโ€™s completed. ๐Ÿ‘ 
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 11:37am
I'll post a photo of the kitchen set up for use here in a day or two.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 11:30am
The little platform on the end of the Kitchen box folds down and locks in place the Sink is a collapsible camping sink that fits on the platform with a short drain pipe that will in sensitive areas drain into a collapsible bucket to be moved to a suitable dumping spot or stored in a gray water jug.
I might come up with a very simple water faucet set up but they tend to waste water. So might just work from a heated pot on the stove for washing dishes and hands etc.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr. 2024 at 10:18pm
Where does the kitchen sink go?
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WildBlue Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr. 2024 at 10:11pm
You have done a great job maximizing the available space. Looks great Mark! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2024 at 9:04pm
Ok the platform is all fabbed up and ready to be taken apart and sealed when I get time.

You can see the bolts where its attached to the Micarta surrounding my roll bar plates


The straps will hold the gear in place. I need to come up with two more Footman loops to get the middle straps finished

with the Kitchen Cooler and Water jugs stored below


And with the gate closed


Next I need to make a tray to hold my Jeep fluids and some misc. stuff in front of the Water jugs and Recovery gear.

Then finish out the Kitchen Box. I need to make legs for it as well as a way to secure it to the Tail gate when pulled out to be used. And then make a shield to keep cooking what ever off the inside of the Hatch.



Edited by Mark W. - 13 Apr. 2024 at 9:09pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2024 at 8:15pm
OK as this was covered in my thread in the Tech section I will only give a short blurp here.

My rear springs are shot my rear springs are no where near up to the load I have put on them.

CHUG IS FAT to the tune of about 3200lbs mostly empty with the Hard top. SO with the front axle carrying 1500-1520 lbs (with two big passengers) and 2300lbs on the rear I am getting new springs.

Micah recommended General Spring in Kansas City MO as a possible source for a quality spring that meets my load requirements and I am thankful to him.

I found their CJ-5 10 Leaf rear springs with a 1355lb rating and approx. a 5.5" arch to be what I am looking for. These should be about a 1.5" lift compared to a set of std. 9 leaf springs which have a 4" arch.

The spring pack is only .5" thicker then my current springs so while I will need new U-Bolts I won't loose to much ground clearance.  If it turns out they are to much lift I can pull one leaf out and should still be in the ball park for the weight rating.

Anyway $300 for a pair of springs and $111.00 for shipping OMG and the wife letting me float them on the CC for a month until my drivers bonus shows up and they are as they say in the mail.

I am pretty sure I can source the proper U-Bolts locally if not I will order them from the same St. Louis co I got them from last time their service was excellent. And the price very good.

Should only be a Morning job to swap them around since everything is virtually new.

As I have started back to work for the year most likely a Sat or Sun morning LOL.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2024 at 8:27pm
OK some progress on the camping setup for CHUG

First up is a photo that shows the Kitchen box on the left Cooler in the middle and water jugs on the right.


The kitchen  box has work yet to be done on it but its pretty much fleshed out. The Coleman stove and collapsible sink will along with all Kitchen gear and the non refrigerated food will store inside of it. The BBq grill is in the black pouch on top of the box. It assembles and makes a grill just big enough to do a couple of steaks to feed two people. The top of the box which is shown actually upside down will have a Formica top I happen to have a scrap of our Kitchen Formica from 25+ years ago (glad I kept it as that stuff is insane expensive now) The top flips over and ends up extending the box working surface to be 21" long. The stove sits down in a pocket so it can't move around (I put Velcro on the feet to make sure) I'm working on a  shield to make so cooking heat and grease doesn't get into the Hatch upholstery may end up just being a piece of .040" aluminum that Velcros to the underside of the Hatch. The kitchen box will get about 3 coats of Sanding sealer inside and out I doubt I will do more then that no need for it to be painted.

The cooler is .040" aluminum sheet folded to make the center section with the ends being riveted on to 1/2" aluminum angle The the top edge is 1" angle. The lid is recycled road sign (the metal recycler sells them with the sign peeled off for $2.50 a pound)  real simple just a flat sheet. With the Insulation Epoxied to the under side. As I said above insulation is 2"  in bottom 1.5" in the sides, ends and top. This gives me a 7" x 10.5" x 23" or a 24 quart cooler. I will be using 6) 1 quart square bottles to store Ice and Dry Ice leaving me 16 quarts for perishable food. As we are planning on no more then 4 day out and about at a time that should work fine as I also have my Lunch cooler (shown ahead of the main cooler painted White which is another 7.5 quarts though with Ice in it that will drop to about 5 quarts.   The cooler is amazingly light.

And then on the right side you can see the two 3.2 gallon water jugs. Behind those will be my recovery straps and such and then ahead of that room for a bag of briquets and the Jeeps support fluids etc. (these will be able to be accessed by tilting the pass seat forward) I can also if need be wedge another water jug into this space.

Inside of cooler


And the Platform its 31.5" front to back by 38.75" wide it sits 3.5" above the roll bar plates on the Wheelhouses. I will secure it in place with 4) 1/4" bolts threaded into the almost 1" thick Micarta that surrounds the Roll bar plates) On the leading and trailing edges of the Platform I will be putting 4) Footman loops to attach ratchet straps to so that the gear stored on to of the platform can be secured. I'm going to rework some of the 20+ sets of ratchet straps I have so they work real nice for this.


My huge first aid kit, travel bar. and firearm support bags will all fit nicely on the sides of the platform As will a clothing bag for each of the two of us. Granted packed for adventure I will loose a lot of that great visibility out the side windows.

We plan on packing

A so called 4 man vertical wall tent
A 6 x 6 popup canopy
Two full sized cots
Two air filled sleeping pads
Two sleeping bags as the planned adventure will be in the summer I have a very compact summer bag the two of them take up less room then one normal sized bag.
Two folding camp chairs
a small collapsible table
Pillows
2 to 4 rifle bags
Some sort of folding camp toilet or a Bucket etc. Yet to be figured out.

I can also store some items on the ceiling of the hard top I have a rack for three fishing poles and footman loops for items like a wool blanket or even a soft tackle box.

Its going to be my great big Backpack on 4 wheels

With a 300-350 mile range between fuel stops with the two fuel cans.





Edited by Mark W. - 07 Apr. 2024 at 11:13am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar. 2024 at 8:22pm
Going nuts today. I been building the special Cooler I have designed for the back of CHUG its an odd shape 10" wide 14" tall and 26" long so it can fit between my little Lunch cooler and the tailgate. It will have 2" insulation on the bottom and 1.5" on the sides, ends and lid. Its a dry cooler in that the Ice will be kept in food grade 1 qt square bottles with wide mouths. So that when the Ice does melt it can be added to the water supply and so I don't have to worry about sealing up or draining the cooler. As cold air sinks the Tall skinny design will help retain temp.

Anyway whats got me nuts is No where local sells 1/2" Pink Foam board insulation. SO I ordered some off AMAZON and of course it won't be here for 5 more days. Everything else under the sun shows up with a day or two. But as this now has the project completely stalled Its driving me crazy.

Weather is supposed to go bad this coming week so I guess tomorrow I switch over to finishing out my Passenger door Priming and Weather stripping. You watch I won't have enough of the weather stripping I have to order from Mc Master Carr LOL. At least I have a good supply of the Primer.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar. 2024 at 1:54am
Seriously thinking on either Air shocks or a new set of rear springs. CHUG is starting to look like one of them stupid squatting trucks. OK no where near that bad but not good. I'm thinking the Springs I bought back in 2004 were not of the highest quality. Though the fronts seam to be doing just fine.

Air shocks are the easier and by quite a bit cheaper solution. I can use the current rear shocks on my Trailer build as its going to mimic the rear end of CHUG for suspension. FOr that matter I could do the same with the springs as the Trailer will hopefully be a good bit lighter then the back of the jeep especially with the tongue weight on it.

Sure enjoyed the run into Salem today. Just cruising along in 3rd Over at 2600-2800 rpm 55-58mph maybe a little faster. Driver window open and the vent cracked about 1/2" Tunes at 42 on the volume control. Going to have to find a reason to drive somewhere tomorrow before the weather goes to crap again next week.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2024 at 7:00pm
No the dual fire extinguishers is a direct result of the Harp top. Trying to get either fire extinguisher from the open door on the side it is mounted on is a BIG PITA While reaching across from the seat to pop the quick release and lift the bottle off the little hook its on is very easy.

I have had two vehicle fires and on the first watched most the interior in my 1940 Dodge coupe burn up while the guy  in the car in front of me with a cast on one wrist try to wrestle his fire extinguisher out of the loose bracket it was attached to was VERY frustrating. The Second one was a junker pickup I was bringing home to strip parts off of and we ended up putting the fire out with dirt, NOT the best way to go about it.

I have also put out a car fire where someone fuel line got a leak and started an under hood fire. Luckily I got there with my extinguisher right before the idiot got his hood open (he would have been toast) I shot the dry chemical up under the grill and put the fire out right away.

I have also had an electrical system in a van try to become one with itself and luckily was able to cut the battery cable (battery in the Van was behind the drivers seat engine in a Dog house) Other wise I am sure that would have ended in a fire.

At work I have used my extinguisher to put a brake fire out on one of our heavy haul trucks when his was just not enough did this along I 5 one morning.

So yea two is better then one and one is maybe no where near enough.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2024 at 6:27pm
Two fire extinguishers?
As we say in the Marines --- "Two is one, one is none".

Expecting electrical trouble?


Edited by Ron D - 26 Mar. 2024 at 6:29pm
1951 M38
1951 M100
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2024 at 6:07pm
So wanting to drive around between now and when I can get the top painted I decided that while the aluminum won't be rusting I did not want the Body filler and Glazing putty to absorb any water. So I went down and picked up a cheap can of Krylon Fusion paint/primer in a Satin White and covered all the Body filler. Not a great paint job but as it will be sanded off in a month or so I wasn't worried about anything but covering the filler.

It does from a distance give one an Idea of how the White top will look with the Pacific Blue jeep.

It also lets me know the front corners are good as is.


And a closer look at the Left front


I'm seriously thinking on running up North to Joe Jenkins Last Wednesday get together tomorrow evening. Be about 90 miles each way. Bummer having to go through Portland in Heavy afternoon traffic. But it is what it is. I might swing around Portland have to take a look at the map. Might be worth an extra 1/2 hour to avoid that dump hole.

I'm going to work on a better seal for the Windshield vent as I noticed in my aquatic run home from Albany last month that water was coming in though the top edge of the vent. Might be a good spot to try some of my new weather stripping foam.

ANYWAY Next on to priming and weather stripping the Passenger door.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Mar. 2024 at 1:37am
Short and to the point .

The front corners are ready for primer. 


They are both now enclosed contoured and weather stripped. Everything's sanded down to 220grit. They will set that way rain or shine until I can get the doors skinned and then I'll start prepping the whole top for primer. I can do that as I go with Aluminum no worry about rust. Ideally I would scuff it all up one weekend then get the majority of it masked off. And Primed the next weekend. Once primed a blocking with 400 grit and it will be ready for the Epoxy sealer and right away after the Arctic White top coats. Thinking about 4 good coats maybe five so I got plenty to color sand and buff.

Then I touch up all the scratches and chips in the Blue and Black and I'm done. It can gracefully make its way back the patina.

I got a few things on the mechanical to do list like finally getting the OD to stay in Direct, adjusting the E brake, an Oil change and Lube job, looking at changing some steering geometry, adding a way to add tension to my hand throttle, and choke, Oh and I want to add more spring to my throttle it likes to float a bit before going back to idle.

Always something


Edited by Mark W. - 25 Mar. 2024 at 2:11am
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar. 2024 at 5:49pm
OK took longer then I thought but the Passenger corner is currently ready for High build primer and then my White Epoxy Sealer when I get to painting the Top.

I started to get everything screwed together yesterday and ended up adding another block to the internal support for the corner. And I fiddled around with the little pieces of Micarta that seal off the end of the Rain gutter. The Screwing together worked out pretty well the tiny 4-40 and 6-32 flat head screws held everything in place very well. The JB Weld glued everything together and filled in a couple little gaps. I remembered to weather strip the Aluminum curve prior to gluing it in place> I let the JB Weld set up over night then I went out and sanded everything smooth contoured the corner and once that was as good as it was going to get I broke out the body filler and gave it all a skim coat. The using a 22" long flat board I got that worked down and finally touched up any little imperfections with some Spot putty and a good smoothing with 220 grit. Its hard to see in a two dimensional photo exactly how it looks. At least until I get it all one color.

Anyway some photos





Hopefully the Drivers side will go as well and take less time as I now know what I am doing and have premade a number of the parts to this. As long as I don't drop any more of the 1/4" long screws I only bought 4 spare.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2024 at 3:06am
After almost two year obsessing on how to make the front corners on the hard top Yesterday I just went at it and ended up with a simple easy design that looks pretty good flows into the windshield as well as can be expected considering I should have made the front of the top about 1/2" wider over all. 

Now to score some tiny 4-40 x 1/8" long flat head screws to hold the single piece of .040" aluminum that wraps around the corner to the front edge of the Top and then to add a couple longer screws to hold the other edge to the Micarta blocks I will be using to hold it in place. Going to bond this little piece with JB weld as well. That way I can use the JB Weld to fill the little gaps and such. I Had to work today other wise the assembly's would be curing over night right now.

This is such a load off my brain. And it turned out so simple. I used the hyd. press a piece of heavy angle iron and a heavy wall aluminum tube to put about a 2" D bend in a piece of aluminum about 4" X 6" then just started whittling it down until it fit. Once I had the one on the right done I made a masking tape pattern and after bending another piece of .040" I centered the pattern on the curve and cut it out. A little more whittling and I had both aluminum pieces done.

The Micarta blocks that will secure the door side of the curve came from my scrap pile and except for getting the curve on one of them to match the Windshield corner curve were super simple to make. I need to look really close at how this all goes together tomorrow to make sure I don't screw up being able to get the top off should I decide to.

I will need to put the weather stripping on the back side of the Aluminum before I glue and screw it in place. I'm also going to make a small Micarta block to wedge into the end of the Rain gutter to lock the little tab of aluminum that goes into that area. This is one of the places I have to figure out how to assemble without causing disassembly problems later. Maybe some carefully placed wax paper to control the JB weld.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2024 at 2:27am
Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

Be sure & get the area located!


Only thing in the area is my sewer line. All our utilities are over head and on the other side of the house. WE dug about a 30" deep hole when we put the tree in and I won't go anywhere near that to grind out the stump. I have an intimate Knowledge of where that stupid sewer line runs as I have been up to my alligators with a snake cleaning it out. It does go near the tree but is about 3 ft down by the time it gets there. NO WAY I'm grinding that deep. Its Plastic pipe with no tracer so Locating its a guess anyway. 

But yes always a good caution to offer. 
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2024 at 2:22am
OH good grief I just got an email about a new Cobra CB that is the upgrade for the one I have in my pickup. This one is a all in one with all controls in the Mic's and a WIRELESS connected control box that can be mounted most anywhere in the vehicle. And the Mic only needs to plug into a USB which I have on the ceiling above the GMRS radio. I would end up with just two mic's hanging from the ceiling. Its AM/FM with weather channels. No SSB but its also $80 cheaper then the President George.

Hmm I can really reduce the size of the console if I get the CB out of it. Then I can move the passenger seat 1.5" to the left. That would get the wife some elbow room.

Decisions decisions.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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