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A little project update on Chug A Lug

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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr. 2019 at 7:52pm
OK so I have now sanded out the first of the repaint patches. And while not perfect its pretty dang close. The patches tend to be slightly darker. Which of course makes sense as the Blue is thicker in those areas now. I have feeling by the time I have them all out to 1500 grit then burn over them with the Meguiar's #105 and #205 that unless I'm looking at them with my bright little flash light I won't notice them.

The New Air Brush only putting on a little bit of paint is a PITA as I had some fairly large areas on the hood I wanted to lay another layer or two on. I'll see how it does when I can sand it out tomorrow. I can always go over it again I guess.

But all in all I think I am on the right track. I tested the Meguiar's #105 on a section of the hood and while I only worked it for a little while it showed me the compound was no to aggressive and at the slow speed of my Makita Angle Drill (800rpm) I'll be able to work with the compound for quite a while before I get myself into trouble. Since this is the only thing (well except for the Top and Trailer) I will ever be buffing out. I am in no hurry.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr. 2019 at 9:06pm
Well I can say without a doubt I hate Paint and mosty anything to do with painting a vehicle. I'm pretty sure I will be repainting CHUG some time in the next year or so. The paint is just to thin for the surface texture I ended up with. SO sanding it out even with just 1500 grit I have thin and bare spots. Trying to patch in those spots leave me with variations in the tone of the paint its all the same paint as in out of the same CAN.

Not happy I now wish I had layed on a couple more coats or some how got it to lay better.

OH well.

I also got the call today I got paving work to do Monday and I would assume that will be the start of construction season for me. SO work on CHUG will drop to weekends and evenings from now until NOV.

I'm hoping to be far enough along by Memorial Weekend to set the Tub in place. Lots of misc. stuff to do before then and a lot of Under dash work.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike F Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2019 at 12:20am
Like I always say. I’d rather take a whipping than paint
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr. 2019 at 7:06pm
OK I been working on my rock sliders all weekend. Was supposed to work today but the weather said screw that. And now I get a message no work this week YEA!

Anyway after building the left front slide outrigger and the mount to attach it to the frame. And then rebuilding it to mount just ahead of the clutch when depressed and then building another style to allow the front mount to sit behind the Drivers Floor body mount. All of that work has been tossed and I came up with a mount that attaches to the frame forward of the clutch arm and across the frame from the Master Cyl. using an outrigger that angles back to meet the slider tube about 3.5" from the forward end. I have two more holes to drill into the frame and I have created something that I won't be able to remove once the tub is set on the chassis. I doubt a need will come up.

Once I get the two holes drilled I can dial in the Height the mount and outrigger holds the front of the Slider tube. I'm hoping to end up with the top of the 1.75" .090" wall tube to center on the outside edge of the Tub and sit about 1/4" to 3/8" below that.

On both sides I plan on putting a tube with a square hole in it through the Slider Tube to act as a mounting place for a step to help the wife get in CHUG. I'm going to make a round step about 4" in D that hangs on a 1/2" square bar that at the top makes a 90° turn and plugs into the square hole in the Rock Slider. This will then allow her to reach down and remove the step while she's in CHUG.

She was worried with her bad knees and such that she would have a hard time getting in and out of CHUG. My 66 F-250 at stock height was a PITA for her and her knees were a lot better then. SO this should help.

I'll get some photo's to show off later. Once I have all the fabricating done I still have to tear it all a part and sand blast and paint the parts.



We aren't talking about ^*S )$)@ **()_E$_) Paint right now.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Grumpy1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2019 at 8:39am
My wife doesn’t like getting into the Jeep it’s too tall, so I just leave her at home. It’s a much quieter ride then.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2019 at 8:15pm
Mark - How much original Jeep will be left when you're done?

Looks awesome, BTW. Dying to see it done. Been driving mine for over a year now. Only one small oil leak...
'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear
Lock-Right locker
11" drum brakes
Dual master cylinder
T90C Transmission
16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels
Cooper STT Pro tires
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2019 at 9:09pm
Which original jeep when dad bought it in 1962 it was a 2A on a CJ5 chassis with 2A axles. After dad got done you could add in a 58-59 134L engine and swapped body parts. So I have no Idea.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Syreal_CJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2019 at 5:07pm
Like the Axe George Washington chopped down the cherry tree with. Its the actual Axe, only the handle has been changed twice and the head three times...
1948 CJ2A #206,482
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr. 2019 at 9:04pm
SO I have been working a little more on the paint. And I have come to a realization  I either live with a very thin paint job with white showing through in places or I put more paint on it. One thing is for sure this thing is blocked out as good as it could every be.

SO I am thinking that I will "repaint" over memorial weekend. I'll go back and sand the exterior of the Tub, The Dash, exterior of the Hood, the Exterior of the Fenders, maybe the Windshield (still need to see how it comes out being sanded to 1500grit) to 700 grit with my P1200 sand paper.

Get everything else masked off and taped up.

I'll clean up the huge mess the spray booth has become, get a couple of the booth lights working again, Hang new Plastic, and put up the air filter wall and get the fans set back up.

Then on Memorial Weekend I'll shoot at least 3) coats of Paint on the above parts and give it a week to cure and start color sanding again.

Really this only puts me 6 weeks behind where I wanted to be right now. And it would drive me insane to not have the paint at least close to the way I want it.

gee's I might have to shave again.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr. 2019 at 11:31pm
Been a few days the Paint stuff got me down a little so I spent a day cleaning up in the shop. Then I got distracted by working on The wiring for the Dash lights (I have 6 gauges & Speedo) all of the Gauges are internally lighted. SO I made up a little plug and play junction block to plug each line from the gauges into and then one to plug the power supply line coming from the Headlight switch rheostat ( I am using a Pair of Late 60's GM Headlight switches to control all my lighting) 

Then I went to daisy chaining a ground wire to each Gauge mount (or the Ground terminal of the Gauge if it has one) I'm going to have a dedicated Ground cable up under the dash for everything that needs to be grounded to plug into this will go straight to the Battery Disconnect Switch (I'm putting it on the Ground side ) I don't want to rely on painted metal as a ground.

Here is a little snap of the Junction block I made up. 



Its made from a piece of K&S hobby brass .032" thick that I cut out so it had 8) Male tabs and then bent it to a channel shape. I then cut and machined a piece of Micrata to act as a base and shield. All the connections are crimped and then covered over with heat shrink.  I'm going to mount it to the Dash brace right under the Speedo.

This shot shows the On Board Air System.


I am using a Viair 400P. I'm mounting it off the frame rail a few inches behind the over sized Battery tray I made. Hopefully if my measurements are correct the Lead Hose that comes off the compressor will curve up 90° and head right into the bottom of one of my Air Manifolds I made that will be mounted on the firewall. The remote air intake and filter for it will end up either high up on the firewall or possibly under the dash (I have to see how much noise it makes. Most likely it will end up on the Firewall. Choosing this location for the Compressor was a no bariner there is nothing in that area, it allows me to make sure the compressor is oriented the best way (cylinder vertical) It also has the advantage of ending up with VERY short power cables and a couple great places to mount the control Solenoid and Fuse Block. Hopefully when I drop the tub on and hang the Fenders none of this will change LOL.

So far only thing I don't like is how close the Starter main cable and solenoid cables will be to the compressor without some fancy routing.

I'd show off the Dash Lighting wiring harness but its a huge jumble since the gauges are all sitting on their faces in roughly the correct position with the wiring and stuff all running between everything.

I do wish I had made it to have 10) tabs as I still need to light my Tach and Vacuum gauge which will be on the steering column. But that will be easy to work out.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Apr. 2019 at 12:09am
Do what you want to do but in my over 50 years of dealing with compressors most of the noise comes from the intake side. Or you might just put a switch in place to not run it on the road?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr. 2019 at 8:54pm
So I been working on stuffing some stuff on the Firewall so I can put the Heater in as it has to go in last.

Here is whats hanging there so far:



In the far Right corner is the PVC and Aluminum duct that will bring my huge electrical bundle from the rear junction box into the dash. Feeding it through there should be a blast! Then of course the Data Plates from Robert at dataplates4U.com I had him stamp them with the numbers that are on my title. Which I believe are from either the original engine or one somewhere before 1962 when dad bought CHUG. As I have Dads title and the submission date is in 62 and it has those numbers on it.  Next are my fancy Heater Bulkhead fittings I had to get parts from China to make. No where here had the simple threaded brass pieces.

Just to the left of the Patent Plate is the little Aluminum Air Manifold I made. The Lead line from the compressor will come right up into the bottom of the Square then you see the Air chuck for anything I want to use air for under the hood and to the front of CHUG. The little dodad to the left is the 175 PSI safety relief valve. Then the 90° fitting on the Right side is where the Air line will run to the back of the Chassis and at the Junction Box split off to the rear air chuck and then the two 1 gallon tanks in the back of the Wheel houses.

What you can't see is the fitting coming right out of the center on the back side. This will lead to the Air Chuck under the Dash as well as to the Dash mounted Pressure gauge. I will most likely add a small air dryer into the system some where.

Then that great big RED THING my MSD-6A Captive Discharge Ignition box. Its a Garage Sale find and the other day I carefully sanded it all nice and smooth and the masked off everything and shot 4 coat of Apple Red Paint on it. A little lighter then the original Red but I like it. Once the paint was dry I sanded off the top of the Ribs with 150 grit and Ta Dah it looks new.

The 4 holes you see 2 just to the left of the Heater Hose bibs and then just to the left of the MDS unit are where the Heater mounts.

And I finished up something I been planning for a Long time now. The Heater Face plate. Its what you will see hanging below the dash. I think it came out pretty nice. Hopefully I won't mangle it to bad by the time its in place for the wife to kick every to jerks. LOL

Its only got one coat of clear on it so far I'll put a couple more on tomorrow.

The Little Willys Button is the same kind I used for the Horn button I made. And of course the Orange is my little nod to the color Dad liked on CHUG.


I also made up a special grommet for the three air control push pull cables to pass through as well as another one that the Braided lines for the Oil PSI Gauge and the Vacuum Gauge will pass through. I need to polish off more of the over spray on the firewall before I can install those.

The official word is work starts up next week On Tuesday for me as the wife is draggin me to the Coast for 4 days for her birthday.



Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Syreal_CJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr. 2019 at 12:18pm
Looks so clean. Nice work. Eric
1948 CJ2A #206,482
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr. 2019 at 11:08pm
So today I did one of those things I hate. I gave up on a couple days work and went a completely different direction. The PVC conduit I was making to route my massive electrical cable bundle from under the Tub up to and through the firewall. Ended up being way to small.

SO I went to a 1.5" Sq aluminum tubing I had laying around and rebuilt the conduit. This one will have plenty of room. Along the way I also solved a problem I been working on for a long time now.

When dad had CHUG one of the improvements he made was to make the Hood Hinge Gutter much much longer. NICE no water on the head in the rain. I then came along with PC-7 Epoxy and smoothed this all out real nice so water would flow well. ONLY THING IS as I progressed more and more I realized that while this longer gutter would keep water off the head it was also going to dump out on top of where I want to put my fuse box and right on top of my Air manifold and MSD captive discharge ignition unit.

SO today while trying to figure out a grommet for the electrical stuff to pass through the firewall I cut a short section of the Rubber edging I bought to help seal the Defroster box to the Windshield to see if it could be bent into a grommet (NOPE) so this piece of rubber is laying there and I just shoved it on the lip on the front of the tub out past the rain gutter. OK that looks ok. I tool some water I had laying around in a jug from Wet sanding and poured some in the gutter. The water went all the way to the outside of the cowl and ran down the outside of the upper cowl. SO Ta Dah I have a way to keep all the water out of the engine compartment from the back of the hood front of the cowl and its no work and almost no money (like $.10 of edging)

I also figured out how I want to run the heater hose from the Water pump to the back of the engine. I am going to make two hold downs that will go under the Head Nuts and hold a section of Aluminum tubing. A short section of Blue Silicone Heater hose covered by some neat looking Tech Flex braided nylon like stuff will connect the Water pump to the tubing and then at the Back of the engine the Tubing will make a 90 degree turn and again a short length of Heater hose to the heater. This will allow the two heater hoses to parallel each other along from the Head to the Heater. This is the reason I made the 90° Fittings. I want the Heater hoses as short and out of the way as possible.

I'm going to have a little trouble with the Fancy Electrical conduit and the front mount and outrigger for the Right hand Rock Slider but I have multiple ways to fix that. So it will be something to deal with once the Tub is in place.

Wife is draggin me to the Coast for a few days for her birthday and then its back to work so Project time will be drastically cut. I been trying to organize a bunch of stuff I can do in a couple hours as evening projects.

IN a few days a can of Eastwood Aluma Blast will show up that will be to paint the Water pump (so it looks like cast aluminum) I'll Paint the Pulley Satin Black. Thats on the evening work list. As is assembling the front brakes, Painting the rear Brake Drums, Starting work on building my Magnetic trigger Vacuum Advance distributor, OH I also need to Paint and final install the Oil pump, Then I can go through all the fittings in the brake system making sure they are ready for fluid.

I have been also working on various parts of my electrical system. Time to start stuffing some wires.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2019 at 8:26am
Mark,

Always impressive work.  Please post a picture of the improved rain gutter.  

Stev
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1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep, 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Apr. 2019 at 12:41pm
OK here is the best I have. Basically its a piece of about 20-22 gas sheet metal folded in half lenght wise bent to almost a 90 and pop riveted to the bottom of the lip. I then took PC-7 Epoxy Putty and using my finger smoothed the joint in. Then of course the Primer/Sealer/ Paint. It could have extended farther before running into the curve but not much.



The rubber edging I used was from McMaster Carr and is this stuff 


https://www.mcmaster.com/8507k15

I just slipped a length of it over the lip past the gutter and it directs the water all the way to the outside of the engine compartment. Or at least it does now with the Tub on the Rotisserie.

I did a lot of clean up and evening up of this lip while I was doing body work. So I am not sure how it will work on another Tub. But theres no reason you couldn't do the same.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2019 at 9:50pm
OK back from a little visit to the coast for the wifes birthday.

Got right back to working on my heater hose setup. I think it came out pretty nice. its different but for me actually has some historical basis. My 67 Chevelle when I was a Street racing fool in college for Auto tech and working Service stations had the same kind of Copper pipe return line. I always hated them long heater hoses always in the way.

So i thought I would try the same thing on CHUG. I also had to come up with a support brace for the Fancy Oil fill, dip stick and breather I came up with. Luckily it all lined up off one of the head studs so I made some slightly thinner Head Nuts and the two brackets. Whittled them from some scrap 3/4" t 1018 I had.

Would have preferred to have used Aluminum tubing but since I don't weld aluminum and I couldn't find a slip on Aluminum 90° elbow and I knew trying to bend thin wall Aluminum tubing would have been more frustration then I needed. Copper to the rescue.

I think the longest Heater hose (head fitting to Heater intake) will be about 20" so east to carry replacement hose in the tool box.

Da picts


And Da Pict from the top


Kind of bummed the hose clamps hit the Head if I have them at the bottom of the joint. OH well. I still need to solder the elbow on to the long tube I wanted to make sure it would all work prior to doing that since once I do it traps the mounting brackets and the Oil Fill Tube has to come out of the block to remove the whole mess as an assembly. I still haven't put sealer on the Oil fill tube because of this.

Would have liked to coat the Copper tubing with clear but that isn't going to happen so It will get polished up once in a while I guess.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasendeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2019 at 10:41pm
Looks nice and clean!! Who was painting there nails on your engine!!
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