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'48 CJ2A #204853, Pietermaritzburg, South Africa

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    Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 12:04pm
 
After being inspired by so many great looking restorations out there, I have decided to start my own project post. Not only is it a great way to get help and advice, but it serves as a good journal of the project as it progresses.
 
I'm going to have to step back a bit to start at the beginning...
 
After looking for some time for a decent project vehicle, and some near misses, I found a CJ2A in Sept 2014 that was advertised as an original 1947. The price was right, and the seller wanted to let the vehicle go for a restoration (which was my intention), not for a butcher job like so many old Jeeps end up with here in South Africa. So we did a deal and I drove up to Pretoria, not knowing much about Jeeps, what to expect or what was in store for me.
 
It was not running, and partially disassembled. However the PO assured me it was all there, and all original, and that it "used to run like a sewing machine" and I largely took his word for it, not knowing much about Jeeps and not being in a position to argue about the price. This was a large leap of faith!
 
This is the day I picked it up:
 
 
 
And at home, loaded into the garage space I have available:
 
 
Very largely, the vehicle is original, and all there. After a few days of going through the vehicle and parts that came with it, I know the following:
 
The engine, transmission, transfer case, drivetrain, and front and back axles are all there and original.
The body is original and fairly well preserved, although some things have been added/modified, like spotlights on the front, non-original lights at the back, and the windshield outerframe is not stamped, hence, it must be repro. The innerframe is home made, although he did supply a fairly beat up original innerframe that I may be able to salvage still.
Front hubs are Warn Lock-O-Matic, and although old, I don't belive they are original Jeep hubs.
The fuel pump is metal top, not glass bowl. The carb is a Weber, not the Carter, and the steering wheel is a two spoke off a 50's or 60's Jeep truck, not the original three spoke.
It has had a 12V conversion, and there is an alternator fitted, not a generator.
 
Apart from that, it does appear all there, and all original. I think it is more than what a lot of folk have to work on when they start out!
 
My first instinct was to tear into it and take it apart, but it is difficult to fix something if you don't know if it is broken or not! I have no idea of the condition of the gearbox for instance, and won't know until I drive it, unless I take it apart. Bear in mind that parts are not easily available in South Africa, and most orders come from the USA. With a 6-8 week delivery window, you don't want to tear something apart until you know you have to!
So my intention is to try to reassemble the Jeep to the point I can get it running, and then to drive it for long enough to develop a list of what needs doing, and in what order. Then the tear-down can begin!
 
It may be easier from here on if I summarise progress with the plan as it happened chronologically:
 
Oct 2014:
 
I found out that the engine turns if you crank it, so that was a good sign. However with fresh fuel I failed to get the engine started, after assembling everything as best I could. I decided to go through everything logically and slowly:
1. Fuel is being delivered to the carb, but the carb condition was unknown. I took it off and had it serviced.
2. Spark plugs and leads looked old. New ones fitted
3. Distributor, points, condenser etc all old and condition unknown - distributor serviced and restored.
4. Tested compression. I got 72, 79, 94 and 0 psi. To diagnose the 0, I removed the inlet and exhaust manifolds and found that the last valve was stuck. Read all about it here:
 
I also found that the flange of my inlet manifold was broken, and only being held on by the nut. My first big problem!
 
 
While chewing on my broken inlet manifold problem and freeing the stuck valve, I stripped and painted up the air filter, cross tube and valve side cover. They came out really nicely:
 
 

 
 
 
 
Happily, once I freed the stuck valve, my compression readings are now as follows:
104, 116, 101 and 94 psi.
A big improvement on all cylinders!
 
November 2014:
 
I removed the alternator and had it tested (working perfectly) and cleaned up. It is now re-installed. I also attempted to find out the real engine number of my Jeep. Read all about that story here:
 
I adjusted the valves while the side cover was open.
 
I stripped and have cleaned up the steering box.
 
 
This required ordering parts from Walcks (new sector shaft and bushings), so the reassembly has not yet happened. Photos when it does Wink
Read about how I made a tool to press out my old bushings here:
 
While waiting for parts, I cleaned and painted the oil gauge and ammeter, because they are both still working, and had the radiator tested for leaks (100% good) and painted.
 
December 2014:
I realised when my new 3 spoke steering wheel arrived that my old steering tube and cam/worm gear had been modified "bubba style" as you say, to fit the 2 spoke steering wheel. Read about this saga here:
 
January 2015:
I have had to change parts incorrectly supplied by the only guy in SA that has parts - this being a 6 hour drive away (he does not do anything via mail - only over the counter Angry). He supplied me a second hand inlet and exhaust manifold that was cracked, and various other incorrect parts. So I drove up and got a decent second hand manifold set, and also picked up a new 41.5" tube and worm gear which he assured me was correct for my Jeep, and NOS. It appears to be NOS, but not correct for my Jeep! See the discussion on it here:
 
I think I will keep it, but just shorten the shaft length by 1".
 
I have had more luck with the inlet manifolds. Here is the evolution:
 
 
 
 
The exhaust manifold is being cleaned up as I write, having a broken stud removed, and the heat riser flap removed so I can replace it with a new heat riser kit I have from Walcks. My intention is to get it all working as intended, even if our climate here doesn't really need the heat riser. It is still cool to have it all working as it originally did.
 
So the current status is that I think I am close to reassembling the manifolds, and then with the stuck valve freed, good compression on all 4 cylinders, distributor serviced, new plugs and leads, and refurbished carb, I can't see any reason why this engine shouldn't run. Then I can drive the Jeep for a while, make my notes, and then begin the tear down in ernest.
 
I feel that things are going slowly, but when I look back through this posting and see the progress that has been made, I take heart than in only 4 months I already have made good strides, and if I persevere and keep on chipping away, I will one day have a Jeep I can enjoy and be proud of.
 
Thanks for reading. More updates as and when they happen.
 
Mike 
 
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 2:46pm
Mike,

You are doing great work!. I admire  you guys that keep at it when you have to wait so long to get parts. If it takes a week for my stuff to get here from Walcks I get grumpy.

By the way. Any type of locking hub that is installed on a CJ2A is NOT factory original. They came off the line with a drive flange. The front axle and drive shaft were turning all the time. You just used the transfer case to engage/disengage 4WD. There was an optional "summer hub" that did not engage the axles and was free wheeling all the time, but you then did not have 4WD available.  Nowadays you hardly ever see a rig without locking hubs installed but they didn't come from the factory that way. See # 7 in the illustration below from Sean's parts database to see how the drive flange looks.


Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 2:51pm
Here's a thread where someone was selling some summer hubs. They posted some great pictures.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 3:03pm
Thanks for the info Stan,
 
Yes, I haven't yet got to the front hubs. I see they are quite greasy, so at the very least they need to be stripped and cleaned and new seals put in. Maybe more if I'm unlucky. Do you know if parts are still available for the Warn Lock-O-Matic hubs?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zuma58 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 4:00pm
Warn sells no parts for their hubs Mike, I have tried, and it sucks as I can't get the bushings or the bearings that the axles ride on from anywhere that I have checked with. All you can get is their Service Kits anymore. Sorry to lay the bad news on you, but that is one good looking Jeep you have there!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2015 at 2:23am
So I thought it time to post some of the updates that have kept me busy for the last few weekends!
I have cleaned up and painted the left front Warn locking hub. Big difference!
 
Before....
 
 
...and after....
 
 
I plan to give them a clear coat before re-installing to keep the brass looking good. Smile
 
I also managed to get the rest of the hub off - thanks for the various help and diagrammes, guys. The brake cylinder is toast, so I need to put in an order for a replacement. I thought I may as well get new linings at the same time, seeing as brake fluid looks like it has leaked onto the front shoe and lining. The kit from Walcks comes with rivets, but the rivet tool is not included in the kit. Does anyone know if these linings are easy to rivet onto the shoe? The current linings look like they have been glued onto the shoes somehow. Certainly no rivets. Anyone know anything about this method?
 
 
Lastly, I have cleaned and painted both inlet and exhaust manifolds, and installed the heat riser. I have tested it on the bench with a blow torch, and it works! Big smile This might be one of the few working heat risers on a CJ2A in South Africa - due to our climate most of the heat risers are jammed with the flap in the bypass position and left like that. I'm pleased to get mine working and hope to keep it that way. Now I can get back to reassembling my engine and trying to get this baby running!
 
 
 
The plan of action for the next month:
1) Reassemble manifolds, carb, air cross over tube, fuel line etc etc and try and start this engine!
2) Strip, clean and paint the other hubs
3) Redo wheel brakes while the hubs are off
 
If I can get the engine running, I then plan to take the body off so the restoration can start in ernest. I haven't wanted to start properly until I know if my engine runs...
 
Ohhh.... I nearly forgot the best news of all: I was struggling with a paint shop in town for them to match Normandy Blue, which is the colour I'd like to go with. All I had to go on were some paint codes (which they said were old and they couldn't cross reference on their computer), and some photos and swatches, downloaded from the web. Who knows the correctness of the vehicles in the photos, and who knows how my colour printer interprets the swatches onto a piece of paper!!! I eventually threw in the towel after just getting no-where with them. I tried another paint shop that was recommended to me. These guys went onto their computer, and searched under "Willys, 1948" and up came Normandy Blue as an available colour. All the others are there too! I nearly fell over!! I actually didn't believe them, and asked if they would paint me a sample, which they did. It looks, as far as I can tell (comparing to the same photos and swatches mentioned above) to be the real thing.... very, very dark blue, with a hint of dark purple in there somewhere. I am super impressed, and reading about the challenges everyone has with matching original colours, who would have thought that these guys would actually have a match on their computer?! So that is the good news for the month!
 
Til the next update Wink
 
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb. 2015 at 9:10am
so whats the code?  mine is normandy blue also and I am struggling with painting it OD green or the normandy blue.
- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, ford reverse steering, dual master cylinder
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb. 2015 at 2:52am
Hi Speedy,
 
The system my paint guys use is Glasurit. Apparently it is a German system, and is used in the Mercedes Benz and BMW factories.
 
I have looked at it on-line, and you can search for your own colours and mix ratios in an on-line database. I don't know much about paint, but perhaps you can fiddle with it, or get your paint shop to take a look.
 
This is what it gives for Normandy Blue.
 
 
For me it is a good sign that the Glasurit database has a matching colour for Normandy Blue that sits under Willys for 1948. And the swatch that they painted up for me looks pretty good. From what I've read elsewhere, most paint shops just draw a blank when you give them the old paint codes. They seem to have all the other colours too in their database...
 
Good luck, let me know if you have success with your paint guys.
 
Mike


Edited by JeepSaffer - 25 Feb. 2015 at 4:41am
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep. 2015 at 5:40am
Hi guys,
 
It's been a long time since I have done an update. No excuses, just been busy with my work which requires a lot of travel, and other projects such as a bathroom remodelling at home which took up some time. Fortunately that is now finished!
 
Happily the Jeep project has not stood completely still, and I have worked on it as and when I have found time.
 
I have taken out the front axle completely, stripped both hubs, and cleaned off the diff housing. All the diff internals have been stripped and cleaned. The inner pinion bearing is useable, the outer pinion bearing and both carrier gears were toast and will be replaced. Here is a pic of the races of the carrier bearings - apparently localised pitting and shear like that will have been caused by water standing in it for some time.
 
 
Lots of parts cleaning and getting ready for paint!
 
 
I have also sorted out something of a spray booth outside from an old tent frame and some plastic to contain the overspray. It works quite well!
 
 
And here is the end result of my efforts...
 
 
 
 
I am pretty pleased with the results for never having done any spray painting before! The results are not perfect, but good enough and as I get more practice I will improve along the way.
 
On the engine side of things, I have managed to install my new fuel pump, restore and fit an AC Delco glass bowl fuel filter (not Jeep original, I know, but at least period correct) and I got the engine started! This was a big moment for me!!! Smile
 
 
So I actually have all the parts to put the front axle together again. New inner seals are in, new diff bearings have arrived, diff is painted, I have new wheel brake cylinders, all new seals, knuckles are painted..... Oh, and I have restored the other Warn locking hub too.
 
 
So, some good progress has been made!
 
By the way, I made a very detailed record of how the Warn hubs, front drums and brake backing plates, steering knuckles etc come apart. This was to make sure that I can put them all back together again properly! If anyone needs these step-by-step instructions with photos, PM me and i'll gladly pass them on.
 
In the next few weeks I plan on finishing the rebuild of the front axle, while I wait for my rebuild kits for the T90 and T18 to arrive, and then I plan on getting stuck into those. Then probably towards the end of the year or even early next year it will be time for the back axle!
 
Thanks for following my thread, and for the advice I have received from members on this forum!
 
Cheers,
 
Mike
 


Edited by JeepSaffer - 17 Sep. 2015 at 9:51am
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep. 2015 at 10:18am
Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:

I am pretty pleased with the results for never having done any spray painting before! The results are not perfect, but good enough and as I get better I will improve along the way.


 Smart to start the painting on something not seen as much.   From what I see they look perfect! Clap 
 

Originally posted by JeepSaffer JeepSaffer wrote:

By the way, I made a very detailed record of how the Warn hubs, front drums and brake backing plates, steering knuckles etc come apart. This was to make sure that I can put them all back together again properly! If anyone needs these step-by-step instructions with photos, PM me and i'll gladly pass them on.
 
 


 I'd say you could write up some tech how to's, but it does sound like you don't have a lot of spare time LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep. 2015 at 4:23pm
Wow looks great.
Nothing like hearing a engine run for the first time. 😃
Thanks for the pics.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2015 at 3:20am
More progress - I got the tub off on Tuesday! This is a bit of a challenge as I have a single garage bay to work within for disassembly, restoration and reassembly! My solution was to punch through the ceiling board and attach chains around the roof trusses, then hoist the tub up with pulleys. So far it seems to have worked. The tub can still go up more, but at least I have access to the frame and transmission/transfer case now. My next job is to get these out.
 
 
I have some questions on my transmission crossmember, and some mods that appear to have been made. I'll post a question over on the tech section. Take a look and let me know if you can advise. All advice appreciated!
 
Thanks for looking!
 
Mike


Edited by JeepSaffer - 17 Sep. 2015 at 4:10am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2015 at 11:23am
Mike,
Looking good!  I like your solution for lifting the tub. I did it with an engine hoist and a strap. I stood the tub on it's end and worked on the floors standing up.
 
 
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2015 at 8:51am
Nice idea Stan! You are lucky with the space you had available. I am really jammed with the space I have. Unhappy But I am doing the best I can with what I have..
 
So last night I got the tranny/TC out from under the vehicle. Felt like progress even though it's just a part removal!
 
 
I might have to put it back in place temporarily though to confirm the heights of the tranny and TC relative to the frame. Seems there was some well meaning work done on the crossmember by the PO that had some unintended consequences. I have a thread on the Tech Q&A about it:
 
Take a look at the thread, and if anyone can help with the dimensions I need I would appreciate it!
 
Thanks,
 
Mike
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2015 at 11:04am
So a little update on the last 10 days:
 
I did put the tranny and TC back on the frame and confirmed that they sit at the right height, or within 1/5" anyway, based on measurements a kind forum member sent to me. I'm going with it for now, and will trust that any final adjustments can be made on the rebuild side of the teardown!
 
So the T90 has been stripped, parts rebuild kit is awaited from Novak Adapters. Here are a few photos:
 
Off the frame:
 
Old paint being stripped:
 
 
Ready for painting:
 
  
 
I have painted it now, but realise I don't have a photo to post Embarrassed
 
On other fronts, I have put my front diff back together, and am really happy with the results. The backlash is at the bottom end of the spec range and the wear pattern on the ring gear teeth looks good... I discovered that assembly lube works really well as a mesh pattern marker. The shiny parts on the face of the gear teeth is where the lube has been squeezed out from the pinion meshing with the ring gear.
 
Forward pattern:
 
 
And back pattern:
 
 
I'm onto the parking brake now. The drum and backing plate were a greasy mess, springs seem not to be original, all bent out of shape and with home made end clips.
 
 
The shoe lining was unevenly worn and down to the shoe metal in the worst places. Everything has been stripped and cleaned, ready for paint.
 
The next step is to disassemble the transfer case, strip and paint the housing, and be ready to reassemble as soon as the rebuild kits arrive. I'll also carry on with the parking brake and I want to take a look at the clutch while I'm digging around. I already know the clutch fork has been broken and welded by Bubba!
 
Thanks for checking in! 


Edited by JeepSaffer - 28 Sep. 2015 at 11:10am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2015 at 10:56am
So I've made some really good progress since my last post. I'll try and keep it short and sweet!
 
- The T90 master rebuild kit from Novak Adapters has arrived (remember this takes 6 weeks where I am!) I also decided to go with a NOS mainshaft, shift rails and shift forks from Peter Debella, and good second hand main drive gear. My tranny is going to be like new when I'm finished!
- I have stripped the transfercase, cleaned it, and it is now ready for paint. Rebuild kit from Novak has also arrived. 
- Rear axle has been stripped out, cleaned to bare metal including drums, hubs, brake parts etc, and now ready for paint
- Engine is off the frame and on an engine stand.
- Springs have been stripped and cleaned, leaf by leaf, almost ready for paint.
- Thread that matches the new shift lever knob has been welded onto the end of the shift stick, so this now works
- Rims have been sandblasted and taken to the paint shop for their coat of Luzon Red!
 
Below a few photos.....
 
 
 
 
 
So lots of parts are now ready for paint, I need to wait for a good weather weekend to get this going! I'm also pleased that other things like NOS parking brake linings have arrived so I can re-line my brake shoes. Lots of things to get going with now!
 
Thanks for checking in...
 
Mike
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sarge 46 CJ2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov. 2015 at 5:49am
Looking great Mike! That T90 is going to be nice!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov. 2015 at 7:26am
Nice clean work! I'll bet you built models as a child and haven't ever stopped! Just got bigger models----LOL, John
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