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Changing the inner axle seal - Dana 25 |
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TateC 
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Joined: 23 Feb. 2018 Location: SLC, Utah Status: Offline Points: 508 |
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 Topic: Changing the inner axle seal - Dana 25Posted: 03 Feb. 2021 at 6:03am |
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I’m reviving this thread. Our ‘45 CJ has started with the tell tale sign of inner axle seals going bad with some oil leaking from the hub area and axle shaft on the real axle. I am wondering if anyone has more details of steps involved and maybe pictures of the process including using a pipe to install seals. Thanks
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Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687 1943 Willys MB #263100 1944 Ford GPW #234613 1945 Willys CJ2A #10226 |
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Spinnas
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Joined: 24 Apr. 2018 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 371 |
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Posted: 18 May 2018 at 10:16pm |
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National is 40576S
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
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Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3013 |
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Posted: 18 May 2018 at 7:55pm |
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Any COMPETENT counterman(+) at an auto parts store should be able to interchange the OEM number to their brand of seal.
The SKF number for the seal is 11771 and if memory serves, SKF uses the same part numbers numbers as C/R. The key to the whole exercise is finding a counterman(+) that know how to use an interchange.  Some know how, and others don't.  (+) For those that prefer, please substitute the word counterperson here. 
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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JeeperJim
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Joined: 02 Jan. 2007 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Status: Offline Points: 154 |
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Posted: 18 May 2018 at 7:37pm |
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Sorry but this does not help. I don't need the source but the actual part number for National, Circle Rawhide, Victor, etc.
Jim |
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JeeperJim
cj2ajim@gmail.com |
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smfulle
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Posted: 18 May 2018 at 3:13am |
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JeeperJim
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Posted: 18 May 2018 at 12:17am |
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Does anyone have a part number for the inner seals on the 25 & 27.
Thank you. Jim |
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JeeperJim
cj2ajim@gmail.com |
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BrianJ
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Joined: 06 Oct. 2014 Location: Hagerstown, MD Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2015 at 7:38pm |
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Mine were snug, but I pulled them out by hand. I re-used the bearings after cleaning everything up with brake clean and degreaser.
I'll probably replace at some point, but it's a whole lot better than it was! Might as well service your knuckles too. I had bendix on one side, and rezeppa on the other. The bendix wasn't worth saving and I replaced with a u-joint. The rezeppa had the small pin broken in the end, but I saw these were later omitted i think. I cleaned/repacked and left it out and haven't noticed any issues doing so. Definitely soft cast iron. I stripped a few on the knuckles, and some were already helicoiled. Lowes has a decent selection of fine thread grade 5 bolts.
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Brian Jenkins
1946 CJ2A - SN: 12275 |
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pjensen641
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2015 at 6:25pm |
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Yes, two pry bars. Orient the carrier so you can pry against the case and hook under the carrier frame where it goes over the spiders. Either have a helper to catch the assembly or fold over a bunch of cardboard and lay a pan under the diff. When it falls out, the cardboard will cushion the landing.
The universal manual describes the pry method and installation methods. Chase the bearing cap threads and use a small amount of red loctite on the tip of the bolts when reinstalling. The loctite will also seal the threads. Do not over tighten, its a soft cast iron case.
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JeepSaffer
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2015 at 5:42pm |
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Thanks for the tips guys. How do I get the gear cluster out of the diff? Do I just gently pull or pry it out?
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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pjensen641
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2015 at 4:46pm |
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You will be puling the hubs and axles too. Once those are out, it can help to have a section of pipe long enough to use for driving the new seals in. Getting a hammer in between the carrier bearing saddles is challenging. you just run the section of pipe in from the hub end and then use a socket or seal driver between the pipe and seal. There was a special press tool to drive them in originally.
The carrier shims won't be disturbed. If there is any pre-load left on the bearings, you may have to tip the outer races a but to get the carrier started back in. Use a plastic mallet to knock them in. When removing the old seals, pay attention to orientation AND make sure the axle guide tube stays put. This little piece helps guide the axles and prevent seal damage. Its located just behind the seal. I would have some emery paper handy to clean up the axle shaft where the seal rides. Typical to have some pitting and ridges there. Edit: Whoops, didn't see BrianJ had already described the pipe trick.
Edited by pjensen641 - 13 Aug. 2015 at 4:48pm |
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BrianJ
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Joined: 06 Oct. 2014 Location: Hagerstown, MD Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2015 at 4:34pm |
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That's about how I did it. Don't mix up the bearing caps, and make sure they're installed in the same orientation when you're done.
A seal installer makes it a little easier, although a matching socket would work too. I used a piece of pipe as an extension to tap it into place. When I had everything out I cleaned the hell out of it. Mine was a rusty soupy mix.
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Brian Jenkins
1946 CJ2A - SN: 12275 |
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JeepSaffer
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Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1175 |
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Posted: 13 Aug. 2015 at 8:01am |
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Hi guys,
I would like to change the inner axle seals on my Dana 25. I have read up what I can but still have a few questions, particularly on how to access the seals. Is it as simple as unbolting and removing the carrier bearing caps, pulling out the diff gear cluster, changing the seals on both sides, and replacing everything again, taking care to replace the caps and bolts in the same position they came from? Or is this an oversimplification, and are there things I should be particularly careful with here? This is my first time attempting this, and I would appreciate it if somebody could step me through it. Thanks in advance, Mike
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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