WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011)

Did a bit more work on the Jeep today. Dad and I got the PCV replaced. (Turns out, there WAS a vacuum leak from the PCV fitting that I had apparently partially stripped...) After that, I tried to adjust the idle stop screw a bit. The thing actually idled down! Sounded about as healthy as it ever had. But the throttle linkage rod that connects to the pedal was set too far forward so it couldn't idle down fully. Tried to loosen the nuts and it snapped the threaded part in half. Confused

One trip to the hardware store later, I came back with some 3/16ths steel rod. After some trial and error, we manufactured a new rod with a threaded end got it back to where it was, but it actually ran worse?! How frustrating.

At least the vacuum leak is gone and it doesn't die at idle. Though the idle is still as rough as ever.

Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431

Once you have a notch, you can use a tooth pick to paint inside the notch to make it way easier to see.

1946 CJ2A 14098

It seems that it might just be a CJ2A pulley after all. One side is slightly larger, though the front of the pully is somewhat bent up. I bent it back as best I could while the engine was out of the Jeep. It's definitely the same pulley in both pictures. Paint and a pair of pliers can do wonders. (Plus I was too lazy to remove it to begin with.)

I might just take the easy way out on this one. I need to replace the oil pan because what's on there is too bent and leaky to continue using and I already have a new one. While I have the pan off, I can visually rotate it to TDC from below, add the timing indicator as suggested, and paint a mark on the pulley while I'm at it.

Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431

Hobo, i'm not convinced you have an m38 pulley. the m38 pulley dia is 6-3/8", much larger than the std 5-1/4" pulley. Both grooves on the larger pulley are 1/2" narrow belt. i've attached 2 pics of the different m38 pulley types, note the shape of the face is much different than what you have posted. the back side pics show both the notch type and the hole.

Edited by muley - 07 Mar. 2023 at 9:27pm

Joined Jan-8 2015
I never met a mule I didn't like!
OD Mule 51 M38
Big Red 19fiddy CJ3A salad

Speedway motors sells a conversion pulley for that Alternator that will adapt it to a 5/8" wide belt. PITA to swap but really saves belts. I recommend highly the Gates Green belts in the wider size. Do a search on their web site for a flat head V8 Alternator pulley a number of choices will come up.

Edited by Mark W. - 08 Mar. 2023 at 12:04am

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962

Yeah, looks like the crank pulley is for a 5/8” top width belt & the alternator uses a 1/2” belt.

1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!

Might just be the angle of your photo.......are you certain both belt slots are identical in width? The outboard slot in the bottom photo looks fatter to me.

A CJ double pulley used a fat outer belt for a governer belt I believe.

There's some inconsistency in how M38 pulleys were marked.

If it has a notch it would be a small v-shape cut into the outer circumference on the inboard pulley.

If it has the hole (about 1/8-inch) it's on the inside of the inboard pulley (very difficult to find, usually only used to transfer a notch to the easy to find position).

As already mentioned, get yourself a timing pointer bolted on, find TDC for #1, mark the pulley, and you'll never have to look at the flywheel again for timing marks.

The pointer uses the 2 studs just below the oil hose fitting.

Yes, there's a pretty reliable way to tune by vacuum and dwell (google it) if that's how you want to roll.

By the way, the belt in your bottom photo looks way wrong size (width) for that pulley. Maybe my imagination.

Edited by Ron D - 07 Mar. 2023 at 8:37pm

1951 M38
1951 M100

Well, I have an M38 pulley then, because it's two of the same size. But I never saw a hole drilled, or a mark. I figured it would be obvious. Though the pulley was a bit dinged up so I might have painted over it without seeing.

Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431

Well, it looks like you may need to use the vacuum gauge method. I can’t tell you how, because I don’t use that method, but I’m sure someone will be glad to ‘splain it to you. If you don’t have a vacuum gauge, go get one. You should have one anyway.

BW

It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

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We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.