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Trailering a jeep...which way and why
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Points: 9653 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb. 2022 at 10:15pm
  I use MAC’s tie-down straps. They’re custom made for my jeep and trailer, and the trailer was built to accommodate their straps. They fit. I dont have to adjust hooks or slide straps, and I dont have to deal with a lot of extra strap. Just wrap ‘em, hook’em, and cinch ‘em. Done. Seemed a bit expensive at first but I wouldn’t do it any other way. As Steve said, their video(s) explain it all very well. 
BW 


Edited by Bruce W - 16 Feb. 2022 at 10:16pm
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
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I've run Mac's tie downs ever since I started trailering Ol' Red to the Fall Color Tour three years ago. Never had a problem. 16 foot tandem axle with electric brakes on all four wheels. The ramps stow underneath the trailer. Plenty of room for a Knaak box up front.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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I watched the Mac's Tie Downs video on the "Cross or Not Cross" debate and see a glaring flaw in his first point.  Migrating can only happen if the straps aren't secured correctly - which he demonstrates.  But this really depends on what type vehicle is being strapped down - and this was pointed out.

 

The second and third point he makes are accurate and valid.

 

Going with an entire system by one maker makes a lot of sense as all the components are designed to work together - not to mention that if issues arise on anything, that one manufacturer will be able to address it.

 

What I found more informative and valuable is Mac's video opened up a rabbit hole that I went down to see more information with different perspectives.

 

That trip definitely helped clarify some changes I need which include going back to straight line strapping.  Learning new stuff or how to do things better always helps.

 

Safety first.
Rus Curtis
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I'm trying to switch to axle straps, but can't figure out how that works on a 2a/3a in the front.  There is basically no tube on the passenger side and not much on the driver's side.  I called Mac's and they recommend getting a welded attach point on the axle (not sure where that would go) or using the rim slots and pass the strap through those (not sure there is enough space).

So how are those of you using axle straps positioning them?

Barry
https://www.farmjeep.com/
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I drape them over the leaf spring an draw them tight against the back of the axle housing
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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I spent several hours this afternoon figuring out how I'll position Old Chigger in my jeep hauler/camper. The kitchen I built in the nose is complete except for a counter backsplash so I bought a hanging scale off Amazon and hooked it to the bucket on my tractor. 

With the jeep in headfirst, I get a little more tongue weight than I want... about 950. If I back it in just far enough to close the ramp door, I'm at 750. That suits me and gives me some wiggle on the tongue weight.

Now that I know where to put the anchors, I'll place them to use my axle straps and just hooks on one end and straps with short chains and boomers at the other end.

When I complete a few more little odds and ends I'll post pics in the off-topic area.
James 4:6 God resists the proud, but gives grace to the humble.
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Originally posted by lhfarmbt lhfarmbt wrote:

I'm trying to switch to axle straps, but can't figure out how that works on a 2a/3a in the front.  There is basically no tube on the passenger side and not much on the driver's side.  I called Mac's and they recommend getting a welded attach point on the axle (not sure where that would go) or using the rim slots and pass the strap through those (not sure there is enough space).

So how are those of you using axle straps positioning them?

Barry


I’m not too worried about the jeep trying to back itself out of the trailer - what forces are at play here, the inertia applied when you accelerate from a stop? I use a single strap on the front axle, just to the left of the center section, very near the middle. Two straps on the rear, outboard of the springs. My main concern is the jeep trying to join me in the pickup cab on a panic stop or a collision. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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I always have to shake my head when I see something loaded as far forward on a trailer as it can get and the tow vehicle’s headlights pointed at the sky and the trailer’s rear wheels barely on the ground. While it is better that way than the opposite it does make me wonder if they got their driver’s license out of a CrackerJack box. I look for my truck and trailer to sit loaded about the same as they do unloaded. My trailer is an 18’ dove tail and I load it as level as I can get whether I am hauling a CJ, lawn mower or one of the tractors. The Ford tractor does make it squat some but it’s right at the max weight for the trailer. Can’t hardly tell it’s behind the half ton unless going uphill. Most people don’t tow a trailer light on the hitch more than once in their life. The tail can get to wagging the dog pretty bad.

Edited by Jeff J - 06 May 2022 at 9:50am
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
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Originally posted by lhfarmbt lhfarmbt wrote:

I'm trying to switch to axle straps, but can't figure out how that works on a 2a/3a in the front.  There is basically no tube on the passenger side and not much on the driver's side.  I called Mac's and they recommend getting a welded attach point on the axle (not sure where that would go) or using the rim slots and pass the strap through those (not sure there is enough space).

So how are those of you using axle straps positioning them?

Barry

I use Mac's double axle straps. It is tight on the front axle but do manage to go through just inboard of the brake drum. I connect the straps to the tiedown ratchet hardware. The rear axle straps are much easier to find a place to put them on the axle.

I do see the weld on attach points, but I have seen some kind of cheesy welds in my day and if I used those the welding would have to be done professionally. I'm not sure there would be a place to put an attach point on the front axle anyway. What I use is the Ultra Pack. https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/collections/best-sellers/products/ultra-pack-tie-down-strap-kit-with-detachable-axle-straps-511206?variant=32324076568650
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.)
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lhfarmbt View Drop Down
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Originally posted by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A wrote:

 I use Mac's double axle straps. It is tight on the front axle but do manage to go through just inboard of the brake drum. I connect the straps to the tiedown ratchet hardware. The rear axle straps are much easier to find a place to put them on the axle.

I do see the weld on attach points, but I have seen some kind of cheesy welds in my day and if I used those the welding would have to be done professionally. I'm not sure there would be a place to put an attach point on the front axle anyway. What I use is the Ultra Pack. https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/collections/best-sellers/products/ultra-pack-tie-down-strap-kit-with-detachable-axle-straps-511206?variant=32324076568650
Thanks.  I've ordered the Ultra Pack, but not from the Mac's store.  The wanted $90 shipping!  I called and left a message, but never got a call back.  Not sure if it was an error or what.  They are available elsewhere with free or $14 shipping.

Barry
PS- I did receive a call and something was causing me to be quoted 3-day air.  Should have been a flat $12 or so or free.


Edited by lhfarmbt - 06 May 2022 at 12:42pm
https://www.farmjeep.com/
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Stev View Drop Down
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Engine forward, positioned to give tongue weight, Chains with binders (drivers side) on the axles, hooks through the anchors - then up and hooked down on the anchor positioned on the load side.  Jeep in reverse - low range with parking brake on.  Kick the chains  and check again at every stop.  

Windshield down with a towel between the hood and windows bottom edge.

So far it has stayed on the trailer. 
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Chains and boomers on all 4 corners. Actually, it’s 2 long chains with 4 boomers so each corner is connected individually. The chains get looped through the side pockets. On the jeeps I loop the chain over the frame at the bumper intersections. 

Everything faces forward unless I have a balance issue or my options are that limited. 

I shouldn’t admit this but I don’t use trailer brakes. My other trucks had brake controllers but this one doesn’t and when I first bought the dovetail 12 years ago I was all about getting the brakes hooked up. I even got my hands on a controller but I never got around to installing it. It’s probably still floating around under a seat somewhere. 
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