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Transfer case front yolk removal

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101stairborne View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Apr. 2018 at 6:32pm
Hi Folks,

I am trying to remove the front yolk on the transfer case of my CJ2a that attaches to the front driveshaft. I have the driveshaft off, but the bolt doesn't want to budge. I thought I got it to move but it was just moving the whole jeep. I have considered putting chalks behind the rear wheels to stop it from rolling back, but I'm worried that something may get ruined in the transfer case applying so much force to it. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

Ryan
1948 Willys CJ-2A
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Spinnas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spinnas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2018 at 6:42pm
Does it have a cotter pin in it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2018 at 7:12pm
Put the transfer case in high range four wheel drive and the transmission in third gear with chocks under the wheels. Clean any rust off the nut and any threads showing and soak with penetrating oil. Wait awhile for the oil to work in. The nut was initially installed with a rather high torque value so you need a long handle on the wrench. An impact wrench wrench works great here.

DonH
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2018 at 8:11pm
Originally posted by 101stairborne 101stairborne wrote:

Hi Folks,

 ...I'm worried that something may get ruined in the transfer case applying so much force to it. 

Ryan

These Dana 18 cases are tough little bastards.  You're not going to hurt it.  I too highly recommend an impact wrench on this chore.
1- 1946 CJ2A   
2- 1949 CJ3A
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote berettajeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2018 at 8:36pm
I believe the torque specification on that nut is 175 ft. lbs. ( But also have seen 150 - 200+ ) A impact will be your best friend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2018 at 11:04pm
Yes an impact is the the choice of tool here but you can get around that with a tool posted in the following link.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=9866
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101stairborne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 101stairborne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Apr. 2018 at 11:41pm
Thanks for the input guys. The cotter pin is out. I'll try putting it in 3rd and use an impact wrench on it. 

Ryan
1948 Willys CJ-2A
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Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2018 at 12:41am
Ryan,
Just did my rear seal two weeks ago. I ran into the same issue. Even with a neighbor trying to hold the parking brake drum was no help. Two seconds with an impact wrench and it was off.
 
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2018 at 5:10am
LOL Every time I see "yolk removal" I see a mental picture of my Mom, pouring an egg from one shell-half to the other to separate the yolk from the white. LOL  BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2018 at 12:15pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

LOL Every time I see "yolk removal" I see a mental picture of my Mom, pouring an egg from one shell-half to the other to separate the yolk from the white. LOL  BW


LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2018 at 3:07pm
A long breaker bar and a hydraulic jack if the air wrench doesn't do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr. 2018 at 2:32am
Originally posted by DonH DonH wrote:

Put the transfer case in high range four wheel drive and the transmission in third gear ....

DonH

Why high range and 3rd gear?  You'll get more compression braking from the engine in low and 1st.
Bob

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spinnas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr. 2018 at 7:05pm
That’s if the engine is running. Opposite when it’s not. Harder to spin a motor by a t-case yoke in 3rd gear high range than in 1st gear low range.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr. 2018 at 3:24am
Originally posted by Spinnas Spinnas wrote:

That’s if the engine is running. Opposite when it’s not. Harder to spin a motor by a t-case yoke in 3rd gear high range than in 1st gear low range.

Nope, it's always easier for the engine to turn the driveshafts when the gear boxes are in low gears, so it's always harder for the driveshafts to turn the engine that way too.  Think about if you were coasting down a hill with the engine shut off.  Which would slow you down more, 3rd gear high or 1st gear low?  1st gear low gives you more compression braking (engine running or not).
Bob

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spinnas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr. 2018 at 3:57pm
Agree to disagree as I am constantly working on stuff with no engine running and tightening and loosening things. In 1st I can spin the motor, in 5th nope. Yeah you are turning more gear, but you have mechanical advantage. I know what I've personally done in the real world, so I'm gonna stick with that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr. 2018 at 4:18pm
"Agree to disagree" is a good option when it's based on opinion.  Like is Coke or Pepsi better.  But whether the mechanical advantage that high gearing gives the driveshafts against the engine when the engine is running reverses itself when the engine shuts off isn't a matter of opinion.  It's either true or it's not.  Spinnas, clearly I won't convince you, so I won't keep trying.  But to 101stairborne, I also know what I've done in the real world, and as a mechanical engineer I understand why it works like I see it working.  And I still suggest using low gear / low range to get the engine to better hold the transfer case output so you can remove the yoke.
Bob

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