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Transfer Case Leak at Emergency Brake Drum

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Schimms15 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr. 2013 at 10:49pm
How warn is the original one? If its in spec I would say use it. The 2nd would work if the seal rides on the metal still. If not its to short but the other one looks like it would ride the same area. Measure the distance down the splines to the seal. Then measure the distance of the piece that goes in the splines. Measure both of your pieces and see if they are long enough when fully seated to get the seal
46 2a
51 truck project named Karen
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bretto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2013 at 12:03am
What is nice about the seal opening on the tcase is that you have some play in the depth of where the seal can go to ride on the yoke. On my build I started to notice it leaking so I looked at the yoke and it was a tad worn at where it was riding. So I drove the seal in about 1/8" in to have it ride on a new spot on the yoke, stopped the leak. I found a 1.5" PVC coupling worked nicely as a driver to keep it square when driving it in.
When putting on sealant to seal the splines, I only put it on the on the yoke's splines area, right behind where the washer sits. If you put it on the tcase splines, it just smears it down the shaft when the yoke gets pushed on..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scurvdogg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2013 at 12:12am
Originally posted by Schimms15 Schimms15 wrote:

How warn is the original one? If its in spec I would say use it. The 2nd would work if the seal rides on the metal still. If not its to short but the other one looks like it would ride the same area. Measure the distance down the splines to the seal. Then measure the distance of the piece that goes in the splines. Measure both of your pieces and see if they are long enough when fully seated to get the seal


Yah, it is pretty bad:



I really think that is what the issue is. Its just too short. It seals fine without the e brake drum on and then when I put the drum on it leaks. I think the drum is preventing it from seating in all the way.


Edited by scurvdogg - 06 Apr. 2013 at 12:14am
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scurvdogg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scurvdogg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2013 at 12:16am
Originally posted by bretto bretto wrote:

What is nice about the seal opening on the tcase is that you have some play in the depth of where the seal can go to ride on the yoke. On my build I started to notice it leaking so I looked at the yoke and it was a tad worn at where it was riding. So I drove the seal in about 1/8" in to have it ride on a new spot on the yoke, stopped the leak.


What do you think about trying to bring the seal up? Would I only destroy it if I attempted it? Or does it need to sit deeper than not?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote autolite Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2013 at 1:10am
That what those leather type seals did back then.They wore a groove on all the jeep drive yokes.Think about it.What did the old barber use to sharpen his blade?The leather strap.Thank god they came out with the rubber type seal.
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bretto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2013 at 2:53am
Originally posted by scurvdogg scurvdogg wrote:

What do you think about trying to bring the seal up? Would I only destroy it if I attempted it? Or does it need to sit deeper than not?


You wont be able to without messing it up.  Seals are a one time shot going in.
I would find out where it rides now and go from there. 
Here is a trick.  Get a Sharpie or any good permanent marker.  Clean the yoke seal surface real good and draw a few lines on the actual seal surface of the yoke in the same direction as the splines all around the yoke.  Then mount the yoke in place with nut as if it were to be used then give it a bunch of turns.  Disassemble and pull the yoke.  The seal will rub the marker off and that will tell you right where the seal rides.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan_289 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2013 at 3:09am
If the splines are good on the old yoke take it to a napa, crow burlingame, or some other REAL parts house and ask them about speedi sleeves.  Its a very thin metal sleeve that will go over the yoke but thin enough to be able to use the correct seal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom in RI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr. 2013 at 4:16am
Speedi Sleeve #99156 will fit the yoke.  They were available on Amazon for about $25 ea a few weeks back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote porsskar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr. 2013 at 5:04am
For some reason I got a short one from walcks a year ago. Could never use it. Had no problem with the old used willys part. I ended up with a tight brake and put the new short one in the bin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scurvdogg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2013 at 12:42am
Originally posted by porsskar porsskar wrote:

For some reason I got a short one from walcks a year ago. Could never use it. Had no problem with the old used willys part. I ended up with a tight brake and put the new short one in the bin.


I am hoping that is not the case as I just ordered one today. Guess Ill find out when it gets here. If it is I guess I will just eat it and get a sleeve.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote porsskar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2013 at 4:11pm
I remember a discussion with walcks they got a delivery of to short sleeves. Cannot remember how they solved it, I think theu gave me a refund. You could check you check for your self . The speedy sleeve is more exensive than the new correct part.
Sten from Finland
1947 CJ2A serial 94118
1949 8NAN Ford tractor
1965 Mahoghany Snipe FIN 14018
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scurvdogg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2013 at 10:26pm
porsskar,

Just got my "new" companion flange form Walck's today. However, it doesn't look "new". Is this how yours looked?





Good thing is that it is the same height as my old one. (One from Walck's on left, my old one in the middle, and the one that came with my reproduction D18 on the right)

 





Edited by scurvdogg - 13 Apr. 2013 at 10:43pm
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porsskar View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote porsskar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr. 2013 at 2:42pm
Cannot remember it was rusty, but for sure it was short so i put it in the bin. No, it was brand newly produced and too short.
If the one from walcks has the correct dimensions I would use it. I feel comfortable buying from Walcks but misstakes can ocuure for anyone.
Sten from Finland
1947 CJ2A serial 94118
1949 8NAN Ford tractor
1965 Mahoghany Snipe FIN 14018
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scurvdogg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2013 at 6:32pm
Update:

It has stopped leaking after putting the new companion flange in. The problem ended up being that the companion flange that came with the repro D18 was too short to add the E-brake.  I put the one I ordered from walck's (see picture) on last night and it has not leaked since.
Problem solved. Thanks for everyone's help.

Justin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scurvdogg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2013 at 9:11pm
Originally posted by scurvdogg scurvdogg wrote:

Update:

It has stopped leaking after putting the new companion flange in. The problem ended up being that the companion flange that came with the repro D18 was too short to add the E-brake.  I put the one I ordered from walck's (see picture) on last night and it has not leaked since.
Problem solved. Thanks for everyone's help.

Justin


Ok, back to square one. I took my jeep out for a test ride and it is back to leaking. I guess I will change out the seal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr. 2013 at 11:39am
As Carl said a few post back, your current seal looked buggered up in the 1st place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scurvdogg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr. 2013 at 2:51pm
Originally posted by bretto bretto wrote:

As Carl said a few post back, your current seal looked buggered up in the 1st place.

That's what I can't figure out. I inspected it and I don't see any tears or anything else in the rubber. But I am going to change it out regardless, hopefully it works.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr. 2013 at 3:10pm

I assume this is the pic Carl was referring to.  Unless the lighting is bad or that is just grease, the seal rubber on the right side looks wavy.  The metal ring also looks dented up.  They are delicate buggers and have to be driven in with care to do it in one shot evenly and squarely.  Did you make sure your splines were sealed to?  Maybe your trouble to is the seal is too far in



Edited by bretto - 18 Apr. 2013 at 3:26pm
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