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Transfer case rear bearing cap sealing

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SteveBonny View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 1:10am
Hi folks.  I just removed the rear bearing cap from my transfer case (cj2a).  I'm replacing the seal due to a bad leak but I also appear to have oil leaking from the joint between the cap and the transfer case.   There are a couple of shims in there but all metal to metal joints.
Is there a recommended way to seal this stack of joints or am I missing something?
Thanks for any guidance - Steve


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ndnchf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 1:27am
Clean each shim well, then spray with copper coat sealer on both sides.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote outlw21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 5:02am
Need to seal the bolt threads in the case. Also I put a little sealer on the OD of the seal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swampman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 7:09am
I would recommend anaerobic sealer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 12:35pm
Check out part 8 of my Dana 18 rebuild series. I discuss shimming and use of sealers.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 1:22pm
Perfect. Thanks for the help.....It'll never leak again 😇
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 2:56pm
Originally posted by SteveBonny SteveBonny wrote:

Perfect. Thanks for the help.....It'll never leak again 😇
Now there is a REAL optimist!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 4:05pm
Originally posted by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A wrote:

Originally posted by SteveBonny SteveBonny wrote:

Perfect. Thanks for the help.....It'll never leak again 😇
Now there is a REAL optimist!!!
 
Ain't that the truth. It took me three tries.
 
Are you replacing the output flange?
 
Micah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 6:05pm
Yeah I put a new one on and about 3 lbs of permatex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 7:36pm
Back together and filling with oil as we speak.  Here is a hot tip for filling with awkwardly located fill plug locations.....
Also handy for bleeding the brakes on your cj.
It's fairly slow with gear oil so I just put my best guess at the fill quantity in the bottle, pump it up and leave it to fill while I tidy up tools, go for lunch etc.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2019 at 12:11am
I'm gonna call this a success, thanks for the help.   I've been commuting to work the last 2 days and ran around a few miles at the w/e (about 50 miles total) and I only have a drip or 2 of fresh oil on the floor....... rather than a pint a week.  The new drips aren't coming from the rear seal area either, looks like rear engine seal and somewhere on the gear box.

I used a new seal and output flange.  There was also a gasket under the seal that I replaced and put in with permatex.  Permatex under the head of the bolts that hold the brake backplate on. These also had copper washers which I reused. Gold seal sprayed on the shims both sides.   I did seal the yoke splines with permatex too although I don't think this was a part of the issue as it would have to leak out at the driveshaft joint which was dry.  Permatex on the fill and drain plugs.
The old seal was a bear to get out and the rubber was hard and crumbly - maybe original part?
I'm happy at the moment anyhow  :)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2019 at 12:16am
Sounds like success to me - good job!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2019 at 2:07am
  Has anyone ever measured the bearing clearance/preload both before and after the application of Copper Coat on the shims? It has to amount to something........... There's a video where a guy measured the thickness of a Sharpie mark.   BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2019 at 3:01am
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

  Has anyone ever measured the bearing clearance/preload both before and after the application of Copper Coat on the shims? It has to amount to something........... There's a video where a guy measured the thickness of a Sharpie mark.   BW

I did.  It went from .005 to .0065 ish.  I coated both sides of each shim with one coat of Permatex copper spray.  This could vary though, depending on how many shims were used, and how thick a coat one might spray on.  I didn't count the shims, but I used a complete pack from Novak, Plus two or three more from an additional pack.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2019 at 3:06am
Originally posted by athawk11 athawk11 wrote:

Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

  Has anyone ever measured the bearing clearance/preload both before and after the application of Copper Coat on the shims? It has to amount to something........... There's a video where a guy measured the thickness of a Sharpie mark.   BW

I did.  It went from .005 to .0065 ish.  I coated both sides of each shim with one coat of Permatex copper spray.  This could vary though, depending on how many shims were used, and how thick a coat one might spray on.  I didn't count the shims, but I used a complete pack from Novak, Plus two or three more from an additional pack.

  As long as we are aware of that, and can keep it within specs, we're good, right? Thumbs Up  BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2019 at 3:28pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

Originally posted by athawk11 athawk11 wrote:

Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

  Has anyone ever measured the bearing clearance/preload both before and after the application of Copper Coat on the shims? It has to amount to something........... There's a video where a guy measured the thickness of a Sharpie mark.   BW

I did.  It went from .005 to .0065 ish.  I coated both sides of each shim with one coat of Permatex copper spray.  This could vary though, depending on how many shims were used, and how thick a coat one might spray on.  I didn't count the shims, but I used a complete pack from Novak, Plus two or three more from an additional pack.

  As long as we are aware of that, and can keep it within specs, we're good, right? Thumbs Up  BW

Yep. Definitely.  I anticipated this during assembly.  If memory serves, all the shims were .0075 thick.  I wasn't sure how much additional thickness the copper spray would add.  I did the initial set up dry, then removed one shim.  I sprayed them, then reassembled and hoped for the best.  It worked out okay for me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveBonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2019 at 6:08pm
Good thought, I hadn't considered that and didn't check it.   I'll likely end up rebuilding the Tcase sometime soon - seeing as it had no oil in it I'm guessing it's not in too great a shape!    It competes with the gearbox and front axle to make the most noise.
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