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Transfer case shift lever slop?

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BD1 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 Mar. 2021 at 8:27pm
I pulled my transfer case and transmission this week. The thing that took the most time was trying to drive the transfer case shift lever pivot pin out. I wasted 2 hrs on that before I sawed the levers off and pulled the tranny and T-case out as a unit. It took some Kroil, and an hours wait before a 2-1/2 lb hammer ton a brass drift broke that pin free. While the pin was corroded very tightly into the bosses, the levers are wicked loose on the pin. How are they supposed be be? Currently my pin is .497 +/- .002 wear in two places. The holes in the shift levers are about .512 in the center and around .525 at the ends of the hole. If I line up the wear the levers will rock about 7 deg on the shaft. Seems like a lot to me. 
I do not see these shift levers for sale new. Has anyone ever bushed them?  If I tapped the passenger side boss is the M38 style pivot pin a direct fit? At this point  I'm thinking the shift lever pin is not one of the high points of design in the CJ2a


Edited by BD1 - 06 Mar. 2021 at 8:33pm
BD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar. 2021 at 10:31pm
Kaiser willys lists the levers, I am sure other suppliers have them too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 12:11am
Originally posted by BD1 BD1 wrote:

I pulled my transfer case and transmission this week. The thing that took the most time was trying to drive the transfer case shift lever pivot pin out. I wasted 2 hrs on that before I sawed the levers off and pulled the tranny and T-case out as a unit. 

 Umm, you could have just jacked the jeep up & lowered the transmission & transfer case down with the levers on & then wiggled it out from under.  No need to cut the levers off..........
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 12:13am
Kaiser Willys sells a "kit" for $174 that includes a pair of used shift levers.  I have also found used levers on Ebay.  I did find a link to a KW listing for a NOS 4x4 lever only for 29.99. I'm thinking I'll need to go to backyard engineering for this one. Maybe a new pin with some sort of addition to get ahold of to pull it out of there and Oilite  bushings in the lever holes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 1:39am
A new pin did wonders for my jeep's levers. Don't forget about the anti-rattle clips that go along side the levers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote refrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 6:16am
You will not regret modifying your case to fit an M38 style pin.  When removing my transmission/transfer case for a rebuild, I was pleasantly surprised to discover my CJ2a had an M38 transfer case.  Makes it very easy to remove that pin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 6:53am
try Army Jeep Parts for the levers and pin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 2:41pm

  Weld them back together. Smooth up the welds with a angle grinder with a flap wheel and a little paint and nobody will know but you.

   Jim

  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 3:15pm
I can cut the levers off and re-weld them in 30 minutes. Add in another 20 minutes if I want to make the bead disappear.  there is no way I could move the transmission back far enough to lower it with the levers attached due to the 2” GM adaptor which includes a 9” stick out input shaft. I like the m38 design of the pin, but is it otherwise the same?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar. 2021 at 4:02pm
Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:

  Weld them back together. Smooth up the welds with a angle grinder with a flap wheel and a little paint and nobody will know but you.

   Jim

YES!

Another option is to purchase from Harry Sheets (if you want original) - he'll have the springs too:
Midwest Willys

I also noticed a listing for just the levers at KW (don't know if they are only available as part of a larger kit):
NOS Transfer case Four Wheel Drive Shift Lever Fits 41-71 Jeep & Willys with D18 transfer case (kaiserwillys.com)

Two observations from me.  

1.  I agree, the shift lever springs are necessary (without the springs, the levers easily pop loose of the notches in the shift rods).  If the pivot pin is operating correctly, it will slide out (it only slides out half-way) allowing each of the shift levers and the springs to fall out of the bottom.

Images from my Service Manual and Parts Manual show the springs outboard of the shift levers.  I've also seen (and tried successfully) to insert both between the levers.  Wait till after everything is assembled before attempting to position the springs around the levers.

2.  IMHO, the reason you had such a rough time disassembling is because the PO didn't lubricate the pivot pin correctly.  There should be a zerk on the end that needs grease (did you have one? was it plugged?) for the sticks but this also keeps the pin itself lubricated.

After correctly assembling the parts AND regularly lubricating the assembly, this problem won't be a repeat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar. 2021 at 11:49pm
So today I welded my shifters back together and drilled out the sloppy pivot holes and pressed in some bronze Oilite bushings. I didn't spend much time making them pretty. They basically match the over all level of fit and finish on Shiney.  I also attached a pic of the old pivot pin that gave me so much trouble that I cut the levers off. In addition to being stuck hard, it was also a little bit worn LOL  

Edited by BD1 - 22 Mar. 2021 at 1:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2021 at 1:00am
I would spring for a new pivot pin. The wear groove might have been what made it hard to remove in the first place. I like the bushings you installed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar. 2021 at 1:17am
Yeah, I did spring for a new pin LOL   The inside of the bore on the shift levers was also worn lopsided, that's what led to the bushings as the levers were loose even on a brand new pin. Turns out the bushings were easy, although I don't know if I'd try it with a hand drill.  They are only about $1.75/each. I will need to hone them lightly as while they were a clearance fit on the new pin out of the box, they are a "finger tight" fit after being pressed in.
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