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Transfer Case Upgrades and Modifications

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oldtime View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 Aug. 2018 at 3:22pm
Text updated.......... Start here: ....


Edited by oldtime - 01 Sep. 2018 at 2:47pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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bobevans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug. 2018 at 6:33pm
Wow, this is great! I can hardly wait to see the post on the addition of a low gear set in the D18.

'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug. 2018 at 8:21pm
Once again Ken you have raised the bar on tech info. Thanks for all the info you pass on to eager eyes.
'53 Cj3B 4 cyl D25/D44 lockrights,11" brakes, Belleview ol skool winch.


Texan at heart,GA by paycheck

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug. 2018 at 8:46pm
OK so I have a pre 1966 small hole (3-5/32" index bore)  2.46 ratio D18 with the 1.25" shaft. Which is what I asked Richard Darr for when I went to him to do my Tranny and transfer cases.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug. 2018 at 10:37am

Quote   OK so I have a pre 1966 small hole (3-5/32" index bore)  2.46 ratio D18 with the 1.25" shaft. Which is what I asked Richard Darr for when I went to him to do my Tranny and transfer cases. 
 
That's the Time Proven Standard CJ Transfer Case.
 It's an excellent case but may have a few limitations depending on the remainder of your drivetrain. 
Much ore to come concerning transfer case comparisons.



Edited by oldtime - 25 Aug. 2018 at 10:40am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug. 2018 at 4:58pm
Well my drive train is pretty simple.

134L now making 140cu in and 7.2-1 compression and hopefully with the other modifications 80-85 HP

9.25" clutch

T-90A (all new gears save the reverse idler shaft) tranny

ATV 30% OD front shift

1.25" small hole 2.46 ratio D-18 transfer case

HD rear drive shaft with 1040 DOM .120" wall tube Spicer 1310 grease able U joints

Stock rebuild front drive shaft Spicer 1310 grease able U joints

1970-71 1/2 Dana 44 30 spline  flanged rear axle with Eaton E-Locker G-2 5.38 gears 11" brakes

Completely rebuilt Dana 25 front axle low miles ring and pinion all SKF bearings and seals Warn W2 Locking hubs Bendix Axle shafts also low miles. (jeep got hubs in 1963) and no use from fall of 76 to present)

Running 1968 Wagoneer 11" self adjust brakes internal E brakes.

29" tall 7" tread Radial tires on 6x15" wheels Mostly with Passenger tires with agressive winter type tread pattern. I will also have a set of Off road tires also 29" tall and approx 7" wide tread. Again Radials something like KM2's

75% of this Jeeps use will be on Pavement about 20% on unimproved roads and trails and about 5% in 4wd.

And 25-30% of that will be towing a 1200lb trailer.



Edited by Mark W. - 25 Aug. 2018 at 5:00pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2018 at 11:19am
Looks like IMGUR pic hosting  is having problems. 
I currently cannot access the site and I will need to edit and update much of this info anyway....
I may just delete this post and start over....

Hang in their and we'll see how it goes...



Edited by oldtime - 28 Aug. 2018 at 11:21am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2018 at 8:16pm
Pretty frustrating. 
Imgur is now back online  but somehow lost many of the pics that I took. 
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2018 at 8:59pm
it's frustrating when your computer goes down and I refused to pay photo bucket what they wanted. I lost several pictures...
uncamonkey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2018 at 9:05pm
Hope you don't smack the screen too hard or throw the mouse against the wall so hard that it breaks.  There are those of us waiting with baited breath for your next post.

'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2018 at 9:35pm
So far nothing about modifications on this post.
 so I'll delete this initial draft after I get the new postings up in proper forum and then we shall get to the modifications a bit later when or IF  I get organized. 


SEE



Edited by oldtime - 28 Aug. 2018 at 9:47pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2018 at 2:43pm
This topic is now a continuation from Transfer Case Progression



Successful build decisions come down to arranging the jeep as a synchronous system.
All assemblies and sub assemblies need to compliment one another.
For this reason I will provide some detail that is not solely about transfer cases.

The HEART of the JEEP  D18 vs D20 

The transfer case is essentially the "HEART" of the Jeep.
It is the central component that made the Jeep what it is today.
Here I will cover the Dana 18 and the Dana 20 transfer cases.
Simply because I believe them to be the best choices for most older Jeeps..
These two are both time proven and are both highly durable and fully gear driven units.

I believe the D18 units generally supersedes the D20 as the best choice for most Willys Jeeps.
Furthermore I feel it's most often the better choice for building of a Rock Crawler.

Primarily > The D18 rear output is inline with the front output and that means your low hanging differential carriers are both inline. 
That can be of great importance during off road maneuvers. 
This fact is particularly true with a short wheelbase.

Secondly > The D18 has lowered outputs at both front and rear.
The output drop allows for decreased propeller shaft angles. 
This becomes increasingly  important  if ever your transfer case is moved rearward in the frame.
It also enables one to "lift" the jeep with less concern about the propeller shaft angles.

This pic shows a standard rear propeller shaft compared directly to the shortest possible shaft that may be used in a flatty. 
This transfer case was moved 5-1/2" aft for installation of the longer T98-A .
Was installed with no other re-positioning to the drive train nor any suspension changes.


Here you see the standard rear axle at full droop and the propeller shaft at maximum possible angle:
If the shaft gets any shorter, then the Cardan crosses will bind in their yokes with rear axle at full droop.
The longer companion flange yoke (previously shown) must be used to achieve that much angle.

Thirdly > The D18 readily accepts the famous  Jeep Approved Special Equipment Option;  the  Warn overdrive unit. (since 1964)


That said if your D18 is a built using a big hole then your O.D. unit must be the late type: having rear shift.
The early front shift O.D, units will only mate to small hole transfer cases.

Fourthly. > All D18's readily accept the common yet highly desireable D18 twin stick front bearing cap assemblies.

Shown: The common D18 twin stick front bearing cap:


The main downfall of the D18 is excess noise during 2WD when at high speed.
For the D18 there now is a partial solution to this excess "on road " noise.
Install larger, quieter and more durable tapered intermediate shaft bearings.
The benefit of installing the tapered intermediate bearing kit is both increased longevity and a reduction of transfer case noise when operating at a high traveling speed.

Shown: Tapered bearing intermediate shaft kit.


The D20 may be a better choice for Jeeps that encounter a lot of "on road" use. 
This is mainly true because it is the "Silent Type" transfer case.
The noise reduction is due solely to the D20's ability to engage the transmission output direct to transfer case during 2WD high output.
Like the D18, the D20 intermediate gear is always spinning during operation. 
But unlike the D18 the D20 intermediate gear is not "driving" other gears when engaged  into 2WD high range.
The D20 intermediate bearings are only under power when in low range and or when in 4 wheel drive.
For that reason a  D18  will receive far greater benefit from the installation of tapered intermediate bearings than the D20.
Also for D20's the rear propeller shaft moves higher up and away from the "kill zone".

The main pitfalls of D20 units:
1st   >  D20 requires the Jeep to navigate obstacles with axle carriers that are not aligned. 
This potential off-road problem decreases as the wheelbase increases.

2nd  > The rear propeller shaft Cardan cross angle is more likely to become acute if transfer case is moved rearward in the frame.
And here again this problem also decreases as the wheelbase increases.

3rd  > Their is no common O.D. unit to mate with a D20. 
And the very rare Warn Auxilary transmission only mates to the T98 or T18.

4th  >  D20 "factory" twin stick front bearing cap assemblies are very rare find.
Otherwise they are exceedingly desirable.
More on this later.


Shifting Twin Sticks D18 vs D20 

For D18 one lever controls front  wheel drive  >  IN or OUT.
The other lever controls  >  HIGH, NEUTRAL and LOW  
Without an interlock one can operate the rear axle in  2WD LOW range.

A D20 shifts notably different  
One lever controls the front axle only. > HIGH  NEUTRAL and LOW
The other lever controls the rear axle only. > HIGH  NEUTRAL and LOW
This can be of great benefit and operation depends on how the shift interlocks are positioned.
Assembled without an interlock, then either axle can independently be engaged into high neutral or low range.
One can get into certain trouble if operating with differing ratios at opposing axles.
Or one can even have front wheel drive in either range with the rear disengaged. (neutral)


Transmission Influences

Your preferred transmission will certainly influence the possible transfer case selections..
Here I will be covering the common Jeep transmissions.
These transmissions include Borg Warner models T90 A, T90 C, T86 AA ,T14, T15, T98,T18 NR and /T18 WR.

Most any common Jeep 3 speed or 4 speed can work with either the D18 or D20.
And choosing 3 speed vs 4 speed will certainly have the greatest influence toward drive train configuration.

When choosing either T90 A or C the small hole case may be most sensible for D18's using the factory gear sets.
Factory gear sets include the 2.03, 2.43 and 2.46 gear sets.
When opting for any of the larger diameter, optional gear sets the T90's will be better if driving a big hole D18.
Optional gear sets includes Terra Low 3.15, Rock Eater 3.05, RE 3.6, RE 4.07, and RE 4.86.
For T90's mated to a big hole the T86AA rear mainshaft bearing adapter ( # 928477) will need be used in place of standard T90 bearing adapter.
And for most all applications the T90 is a poor choice to mate to the D20.

The generally undesirable T86AA was factory mated to the big hole.
That said, it could feasibly be mated to a small hole via the T90 mainshaft bearing adapter.

T14's and T15's are always mated to big holes.
The T15 is certainly the finest 3 speed that one can mate to a big hole,
 It uses no sort of TC nor bearing adapter and it cannot be mated to a small hole

The T98 and T18 transmissions can be be mated to a small hole via the T98 rear adapter plate.
T98's and T18's  can also be mated to a big hole via the T18 rear adapter plate.

You can see how the rear is indexed into the transfer case via the protruding ring.
This ring is specific for small hole transfer cases (3-5/32" index bore)
Jeep T18 transfer case adapter plates are identical except they have a 4" bore ring.
You can also see how the T18 adapter (on the right) is still  marked as T98-A

Further more the rear adapter plate can influence case selection due to pivot stud relocation.

Jeep  T98 and T18 clutch control ball pivot studs always thread into the side of the rear adapter plate.
You also see the original # 912721 Insulator

With the clutch control pivot stud relocated into the adapter plate, the transfer cases (previously shown having that same hole tapped into the side of the case is not required.

Yes there is an oil seal positioned in the T98 /T18 to Dana 18 adapter plates.
With a few exceptions ...The factory T98 was only mated to the small index bore D18's and the T18 was mated to a large index cases.. 
The adapter seal itself is the same regardless.

Bottom line is that big holes are typically better than small hole for all Jeeps especially true if you install an  aftermarket gear set.



Edited by oldtime - 09 Sep. 2018 at 5:30pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 11:56am
 BUILDING MODIFIED TRANSFER CASES
 
 Building a "Super Dana 18"

The custom made unit often referred to as a "Super D18" was not a factory built unit.
Therefore I consider this as a modified unit. even though it can be entirely assembled using only Dana Spicer manufactured components.
To describe this build I shall begin with the most advanced of the D18's.
The Jeep factory "Big hole D18" (1966-1971 - D-225 applications)
Of course a Super D18 may also be pieced together from any source of these same parts.

Basically the complete big hole D18 single stick assembly is removed and that is replaced with the typical D18 twin stick front bearing cap assembly.
And so in order to accomplish this build,  the transfer case must be completely dis-assembled. 
It must be built from scratch because shift forks will always be the first part fitted into a bare case.

Here we see an otherwise bare D18 big hole case with a common D18 twin stick front bearing cap assembly.
These particular factory parts parts were never combined from the factory.

This pic shows all twin stick parts (less levers) that will be required in place of the single stick front bearing cap assembly.
These may be sourced from any common twin stick D18.

FYI: the Jeep big hole D18 was also factory equipped with the typical civilian park brake assembly.

And that my friends is the basic modified big hole D18 which may be assembled using only DS factory available components. 
No aftermarket parts are required.

But lets now go even further using only factory parts, or you may opt to replicate this factory part.
This option must be considered If you ever dream about installing a T98 or T18 .
We go from the standard D18 twin stick front bearing cap to the special use T98-A twin stick front bearing cap.
Luckily one can easily duplicate a factory T98-A  twin stick front bearing cap by grinding away a portion of the standard bearing cap.
Here in this pic you see a standard twin stick bearing cap.
This one has been modified exactly  like the factory cap to accept both T98 and T18 transmissions.
The only difference being that the factory T98-A front bearing cap was milled from the standard cap.
In this pic you see one that I ground down then filed it flat with a large bastard mill file.

Simply grind away a portion of the thickness as shown so that it does not hit the transmission case.
The final  thickness measured at the left shift pin hole area should be from .650" nominal to .675"  maximum thickness..

And also the twin stick shift lever pin must be shortened accordingly to fit.
I'll show that later on.

And that my friends is as far as we can go using factory available components.
We have assembled a D18 transfer case using only factory available parts even though this configuration was never in actual production.

Up next : Non factory D18 aftermarket modifications so stay tuned


Edited by oldtime - 09 Sep. 2018 at 5:34pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep. 2018 at 4:11pm
D18 Aftermarket Modifications

Now  let's consider yet another modification to our freshly built Super Dana 18.
Here we consider an aftermarket product, the  AA tapered intermediate bearing kit  #  DANA18-INT.
This may be done  both to lower the noise at higher speeds and to  increase the intermediate shaft service  life.
If you hope to truly quiet transfer case when operating high speed 2WD then consider this as help and not the solution !
To accomplish you will need to have the intermediate gear bored to accept taper bearing cups #.L44610.
The change required to the intermediate gear is irreversible.
This kit could be ideal solution in situations where the intermediate bearing bore has gone bad while the gear teeth remains serviceable.
Note that due to the gear's "case hardening", few machinists will accept this precision boring.
Years ago these kits were supplied with bored intermediate gears but that is no longer the situation.

Here you see 2  brand new TL 3.15 intermediate gears.
One on left was tailor machined to accept taper bearing cups and is destined to go into a D18.
The non modified 3.15 TL intermediate gear is destined to go into a D20 transfer case.

The standard intermediate shaft thrust washers are eliminated with installation.of this kit.
Just like wheel bearings these taper bearings need be adjusted for correct tension.
In effect the beaqrings are lightly squeezed together to achieve very light tension.
The replacement shaft uses an ajustable sliding sleeve for that purpose. 
The tension adjustment is held via the shafts  castellated nut
And proper tension of these taper bearings should be maintained. throughout their service life. 
Here you see the adjustable sliding sleeve with integral "O" ring seals.

Here you see how the adjustable sleeve rides in the case intermediate bore where it can press inward against the bearing cone:

If I recall  correctly at one time there were some early manufactured tapered bearing  kits available for use with 1-1/8" intermediate shafts.
The difference only being the special shaft diameter.

Overall I rate this as a good idea "IF" you have a D18 and frequently operate in 2WD at relatively high speeds.
Other than the increase of service life this modification is not an advantage for  slow speed operation nor for rock crawlers.
Likely that most jeeps are just as well off with standard high quality intermediate shaft kits.

.And finally let's also consider installing one of the aftermarket gear sets. 
If you like the ratios available with Rock Eater gear sets then by all means talk to Jack O'Brien.. 
He knows his product better than anyone and will gladly assist you as long as you can stand it. Ha Ha Ha !
Note that his kits are available as 3.05,3.6, 4.07 and perhaps 4.86 ratios.
His taper bearing kits use much larger bearings than AA kits and intallation for most of his products will require permenant machining changes performed to your main casting.
RE kits larger than 3.6 ratio may require additional body clearance concerns.

Myself I really like the lower cost and the excellent ratio provided by the TL 3.15 gear sets.
3.15 is an excellent ratio that ranges well with all Borg Warner Jeep transmissions.

Here we see a standard DS 2.46 gear set vs TL 3.15 gear set:

With the TL 3.15 intermediate gear fitted into a big hole case you can see that this larger than standard gear has ample clearance:
The actual clearance is just over 1/4" between gear teeth and the big hole case.

If attempting the TL 3.15 gears into a small hole case always expect to encounter an interference fit.

In this instance I fitted a TL 3.15 into a small hole case without grinding the case . 
Not all cases will be the same but in this instance the taper intermediate shaft nearly fit minus the adjusting sleeve.

If you look closely here you can see where the TL gear was pressing against the top of this small hole case. 
Note the light spot in front of the bore hole:

So the highlighted area will need to be clearanced for the large diameter gear to fit

My die grinder gave out as soon as I tried to use it. 
So I decided to try removing some of the area with a drill mounted roto burr and file. 
The roto burr was much faster at removal than anticipated.
I filed a little then fit the gear back in the case.
Spun the gear by hand and it left it's mark where it needed more clearance.
After two or three tries I got minimal gear clearance of maybe 20 thousands inch.
I  only had to remove about 1/16" of thickness so no outer patch will be required.
Here's the finnished look:

And here is the TL 3.15 gear in a small hole case:

Of course I'm going all out here on this Super Dana 18 so lI also plan on TL compatible bowl gear so it can operate a Warn O.D. unit.
Tera Low bowl gear vs assembled Warn 2.46 bowl gear.

TL 3.15 ratio 4 gear set having special OD bowl gear in place of the usual TL mainshaft gear.

And here we have the AA transfer aluminum case girdle vs standard TC bottom pan.
Designed to increase the assembled case strength and operate somewhat cooler.


Edited by oldtime - 19 Sep. 2018 at 8:23pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep. 2018 at 3:06pm
I wanted to get some of this info up ASAP.
I may need to frequently go back through and correct misleading info.
So if you see anything that seems contrary, then clue me in to the illogical nonsense and I'll try to correct it.

Not finished yet.
I do plan to add more about  building a D20 in particular when I get it all compiled. 
Actually have not even started on that yet.
As far as that goes, I also have additional info on building D18's that remains relevant.

Also I do have a couple of transfer cases ready to be built and can feasably show the actual build procedure if that becomes helpful.
Or I may just add on to (meaning EDIT) what I already posted about building various transfer cases.
If I edit things then you may need to re-read entire portions of the post in order for it to make sense.





Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Sep. 2018 at 9:19pm
Awesome info, we really appreciate you taking the time to do this. Here's a couple of questions, let's say we are building a low geared case for our 2A. What would you suggest we re-use and what should we replace? I bought a D20 and have several parts from D18s. Should I get a master rebuild kit for a D18, maybe a new cross shaft (from Novak?). Then I guess I will need the front output retainer from the D18 (to twin stick it best) and the rear output retainer, and the block off plate (no overdrive in the budget) all from the D18. Should I get new shift rails? Anything else needed from the D18.
Thanks                   

'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Sep. 2018 at 11:46am
Bob,
Well for most I would suggest building a D18 in lieu of D20.
I often suggest starting with a big hole case for installing TL gear sets but that suggestion is not set in stone.
I still recommend the big hole cases for those running larger engines and most any transmission besides the T90.
If your running one of the 134's and a T90 then a small hole case may be doable.
Note that some small hole cases may fit larger gear sets better than others.
A small hole case is a must for those with rear shift Warn O.D. units.

Buy whatever parts your most comfortable with.
Obviously replace all gaskets and seals with preferably double lipped seals. 
My self I am only comfortable with Timken taper bearings and Fafnir or MRC for ball bearings.
I only buy the NOS USA made deep stamped (not laser ink stamped bearings)
I have been using genuine NOS Dana Spicer intermediate shafts. 
Right now I have 1 or 2 extra sets of original DS intermediate  shafts with rollers and thrust washers in VG used condition (but not perfectly nor new) 

GROUP 18-04
A-1007----------------D18 front output-----------------------------------------Fafnir 206 K
51575-----------------D18 main output cone (qty 2)-------------------------14131
52883-----------------D18/D20 main output cup (qty 2)---------------------14276

GROUP 18-05
642190----------------D18 @ 2.43 intermediate rollers (qty 2)
809294----------------D18 @ 2.46 / D20 intermediate rollers (qty 48)

If you buy a TL 3.15 kit then know they are supplied with the intermediate shaft parts.
I have not used and have no feedback on quality of Tera Flex nor Novak intermediate shafts. 
I'm sure that most people buy complete TL kits. 
I tend to buy the needed quantity of individual gears because its cheaper less intermediate shaft parts and  have drop shipped direct from Terra Flex. 
I already had enough NOS DS shafts and bearings to fit my own needs.

You cannot use D20 shift rods for a D18 build. 
If in doubt about condition, then  show detailed pic of questionable parts.



Edited by oldtime - 10 Sep. 2018 at 7:29pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Greaser007 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2018 at 11:08pm
   This is a great compilation of Transfer-Case information.
and I did read through the link you posted to the other 'thread.'

From this, I just learned that if I have a rear-shift Warn overdrive, then I must have a small-hole transfer-case Case ?

   ( I recently did purchase a Warn O.D. with the shift-lever out the rear ).
It is mated to a T-90 from a pickup or wagon, so it has the long input shaft (driven-gear). I just did purchase a short T-90 (driven gear) from Debella's to make it compatible for the little L134 flathead 4 engine.
   Do you feel I may be able to purchase the input bearing from Napa ? or should I be looking elsewhere ?

   thanks for the time to make this Thread. It will be most helpful for many of us who are dreaming of making modifications. I am interested in the Terra Low gear-set changeover at some point to lower my crawl speed in my '46 w/ L134.

One last thing, when you mentioned loosing photos, do you have them backed-up on a Thumb-Drive (flash-drive) ?   I hope you do, and should always make a back-up of the "back-up" for safe-keeping. :-) _ _ easy to say, right.

   Len
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