Transmission Issues (I think) |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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There may be a thread like you ask about, I don't remember it specifically, try a search ( I think there's a thread on how to search, but you'd have to search for it).
Seriously, though, I know there are several threads dealing with pulling the rear hubs. Once you have the hubs (or hub, if you find a broken axle and only want to pull that one) off, just disconnect the brake line, remove the six bolts that hold the brake backing plate on, remove the plate and pull the axle out, the bearing & cup will come with it. If you find an axle broken near the differential (that's where they usually break) I have a trick or two for removing the short piece. Let us know. BW PS You might as well get yourself a copy of the Universal Jeep Service Manual , you'll be needing it. In the meantime, I might see if I can copy the applicable pages from mine and e-mail them to you.
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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Correct. If the wheel turns but doesn't turn the spider gears, the shaft is probably broken. It could be stripped splines or something, but not likely. At any rate, the repair is essentially the same. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Bruce, I'd sure like to hear at least the Readers Digest version of your tricks to remove broken axle bits, even if the original poster doesn't need to...
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html for a lot of great stuff you need to know!! |
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jimmcld
Member Joined: 17 Nov. 2005 Location: Denton, Texas Status: Offline Points: 187 |
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If it moves a little, might it be just a sheared pin?
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Jim
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Bob3b
Member Joined: 08 Mar. 2010 Location: Akron, Ohio Status: Offline Points: 3095 |
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I know guys used to use the attachments from a shop vac to get them out.
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1946 CJ2A #23881
1953 CJ3b, nice! 1949 Jeepster 1947 Empire Model 90 1985 CJ10A Spen "S" Utility trailer Kubota l3400 |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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That's why I keep thinkin' sheared hub key. BW |
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Bob3b
Member Joined: 08 Mar. 2010 Location: Akron, Ohio Status: Offline Points: 3095 |
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That would be a good thing compared to a broken shaft. The hubs are known to crack at the keyway too. Might want to keep an eye on that.
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1946 CJ2A #23881
1953 CJ3b, nice! 1949 Jeepster 1947 Empire Model 90 1985 CJ10A Spen "S" Utility trailer Kubota l3400 |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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Disclaimer: These tricks were learned and used on GM and Ford vehicles, and I cannot guarantee that they'll work on a Willys. Heck, they didn't ALL, ALLWAYS work on them. I know there are some differences between the axles used here & there, but GM and Ford did use Dana axles in some applications. If I am aware of differences, I have altered the procedures to accommodate the differences. My Dad's Favorite: Make a "noose" of baling wire just large enough to fit over the shaft. Tape the running end of the wire to a broomstick so the loop or noose is a little beyond the end of the stick, with the bend a little greater than 90 degrees, so the side of the noose away from the twist contacts the axle stub first. Slide the noose in until it touches the stub and you have to push it in to get it to slide over the axle stub. When you pull it back, it should grab the stub and pull it out. I hope you can visualize this from my description. My "mentor"s (the old guy I apprenticed under when I first started with Chevrolet) Favorite: Remove both axles. Slide a stout steel bar into the housing on the side that the good axle came out of, until it gently touches the spacer block, then using it, gently push the block as far toward the axle stub as possible. Using a broomstick or etc, gently push the stub in as far as possible, pushing the block and the steel bar back the other way. Remove the broomstick. This ensures that all three parts are touching, with no gaps. Then, with a good-sized hammer, SMARTLY strike the end of the bar inwards. The stub should shoot out the end of the axle housing (except in the case of the Willys, the inner oil seal will probably stop it, but it'll be near the end of the housing and easier to fish out). It might be possible to break the spacer block, if it's cast iron (I don't know if it is). if you're worried about that, remove the differential pinion (spider) pin (will it come out in a Willys?) and block and gently seat the bar directly against the axle stub. Then Whack it. I suppose you could use the good axle for the steel bar, but you might damage the threads on the outer end. Another, simpler, method that should work better now than it did in the '60s: Tape a powerful magnet to the end of that broomstick, reach in there, and pull it out. We used magnets that veterinarians put in cows' stomachs to collect nails, pieces of wire, etc. Magnets, more powerful than what we had then, are available today. I kinda like the shop-vac idea too! BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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"remove the differential pinion (spider) pin (will it come out in a Willys?"
I can answer this cuz i have my rear end in pieces right now. Thr differential pin in a Dana 41 WILL NOT come out without unbolting the ring gear from the carrier. Edited by smfulle - 09 Aug. 2013 at 4:33pm |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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I was afraid of that. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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So, Thor, Update? BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3396 |
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Ditto! |
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BOULDER 48 2A
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Thor Schanck
Member Joined: 31 July 2013 Location: ColoradoSprings Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Thank you to everyone who has been helping me with these issues. Sorry I haven't replied in a while I have was out of town for a bit and am actually getting ready to head out again for a while. Looks like I'm not going to have time to finish repairing the jeep until I get back. I was under the car tonight putting the differential cover back on and noticed something that didn't look right. I have posted several pictures below. If you look closely there is a crack straight across the piece of metal that sits between the two spider gears. I don't think this is stopping the wheels from moving because all of the parts inside the differential case move when the car is put in gear. I haven't taken the axle shafts out yet to see if they are broken. I think that will be a project I do once I get back in town. I guess I just wanted to see if anyone who knows more than I do could tell me if the crack in that part is normal as well as if it should be replaced. Thanks again for your help.
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Schimms15
Member Joined: 17 Jan. 2011 Location: milwaukee, Wisc Status: Offline Points: 2953 |
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Looks like a cast mark not a crack n
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46 2a
51 truck project named Karen |
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Joe Friday
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3633 |
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The crack is not normal and that part should be replaced.
Figuring which side to pull the drum and axle from should be pretty easy based on which side gear does not rotate when the wheel is turned. Like the guys said, a strong magnet on a telescoping rod out to pull out the stub . I always seem to snap the left axle just outboard of the side gear. As a result I didn't need to pull the carrier to repair. Edited by Joe Friday - 30 Aug. 2013 at 3:09pm |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6123 |
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Thor,
That piece is a spacer block. The ends of the axles butt up against it. That spacer block along with the shims and lock plate out on the ends of the axles are what maintains the proper endplay on the axle. If that is, in fact, a crack it could be an issue in the future if the whole block cracks in half. I am thinking like Schimms, that it is a casting mark, but it is hard to tell from the photo. The lock has a hole in the middle for the differential pin to go through and then it just kind of floats in there.
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Thor Schanck
Member Joined: 31 July 2013 Location: ColoradoSprings Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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I thought the same thing when I first saw the mark but if you look closely at the first picture you can tell that it is definitely a break. So my next question is how do I get to that piece to replace it? would that involve removing the rear axle and disassembling it?
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Thor Schanck
Member Joined: 31 July 2013 Location: ColoradoSprings Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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I have circled the areas that show that it is a crack if you look at the edges they don't match up at all. They are offset because as it turns it is beginning to move and separate.
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