Transmission/Transfer Case Leak

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   I have done some searches but cant seem to find a similar leak what I have. It appears that the gasket between the transfer case and transmission is leaking and has for a while. Is this a wet chamber, or is it leaking from somewhere else and dripping down? I am debating if I should pull the transfer case now and replace all the seals, or should I drive it a while and top off the oil frequently. 

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redneckengineer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 10 Nov. 2010 Location: Chandler, AZ Status: Offline Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote redneckengineer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Transmission/Transfer Case Leak Posted: 15 Dec. 2010 at 4:41pm
	I have done some searches but cant seem to find a similar leak what I have. It appears that the gasket between the transfer case and transmission is leaking and has for a while. Is this a wet chamber, or is it leaking from somewhere else and dripping down? I am debating if I should pull the transfer case now and replace all the seals, or should I drive it a while and top off the oil frequently.

Joe DeYoung Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Madison WI Status: Offline Points: 3358	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joe DeYoung Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec. 2010 at 5:24pm
	Yes, that is a wet chamber. I would first check to see if the bolts are tight. Then start looking form the top down. Do you have a column shift or cane shift. If cane, it could be leaking from the rail bores on the top loader shift assembly and running down. That's a real common problem. Does it continue to leak even after it's been sitting for a several days? If so, then it's not the shift assembly as that is below the static oil level.
	Joe DeYoung to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife.

redneckengineer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 10 Nov. 2010 Location: Chandler, AZ Status: Offline Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote redneckengineer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec. 2010 at 5:44pm
	I had tightened the bolts but they were snug to start with. I have a floor shift model, It only started leaking after I was able to get the engine running and drove it in and out of the garage. The leaking stops after a day or 2 and is not a lot. The outside of the case is caked with oil and dirt mixture so I think that it has been leaking for a long time before I got the jeep. How big of a job is it to seal up the rail bores do I have to pull the case?

Joe DeYoung Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Madison WI Status: Offline Points: 3358	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joe DeYoung Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec. 2010 at 6:54pm
	The rails are in the shift assembly that is bolted to the top of the tranny. This can be removed without pulling the trans/transfer. Stopping shift rail leaks is a bit of a problem though as the design doesn't use seals. The rails are supposed to be a close fit to the bore. When new the fit is close enough that 90 weight gear lube is to thick to get past the shaft/bore in any kind of large quantity. After long time use, the bore and/or rail become worn and no longer have a close fit... thus a large leak ensues. I don't know of a quick fix for this other than buying a new shift assembly. If you want to correctly fix your original one, you would have to sleeve the bore and use a new rail. Another option that I've heard of is to machine and install an o-ring. I'm not a big fan of that fix as the shaft will not be lubricated correctly in the bore. Another thing to think about with that fix is that the surface finish is probably to ruff to get any life out of the oring.
	Joe DeYoung to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife.

redneckengineer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 10 Nov. 2010 Location: Chandler, AZ Status: Offline Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote redneckengineer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec. 2010 at 7:08pm
	Thanks for the information, it looks like in the mean time I will be refilling the oil periodically and buying a new drip pan until I can get around to pulling the shifter assembly. I have access to a machine shop but for $130 for a new assembly from walcks im thinking that might be the way to go.

bkreutz Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Oct. 2006 Location: Fruitland Idaho Status: Offline Points: 7037	Post Options Post Reply Quote bkreutz Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec. 2010 at 7:58pm
	Q: What do you call a Jeep that doesn't leak oil? A: Out of oil I park on top of large pieces of cardboard.
	Gale 47 CJ2A 142857 47 Bantam T3-C 16271 Photo page http://bkreutz.smugmug.com/

TERRY Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400	Post Options Post Reply Quote TERRY Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Dec. 2010 at 8:25pm
	The shift rails also leak because oil is flung up into the rails when driving, then the oil in the rails is forced out by hydraulic force generated when the shift rods are moved during gear changes. There are plugs in the front of the rails and replacements are available if they no longer fit well (I found mine sitting free on top of the transmission, pushed out by pressure). The rear does not have plugs, and there is little space for them. I flat filed the area at the rear openings, drilled and tapped a hole between them and attached a metal plate with sealant. I also drilled some relief holes into the bores from the inside at a point beyond rail travel to allow oil to drain back and reduce hydraulic pressure. I found all of these hints elsewhere on this site, Vernco.com, Rick Stivers guide etc. Also the pin the shift cane pivots on will leak around its swedges and needs sealant.
	BOULDER 48 2A

redneckengineer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 10 Nov. 2010 Location: Chandler, AZ Status: Offline Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote redneckengineer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Dec. 2010 at 8:56pm
	Terry thanks for the suggestion of the block off plate for the rear of the rails. I think that is probably the way to go. As soon as she is rolling again I will thoroughly clean up the transfer case and make sure that this is where the leak is coming from. Until then time to make a template and get a order into the water jet guys.

ovrlnd Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746	Post Options Post Reply Quote ovrlnd Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 Dec. 2010 at 1:05pm
	did you use one of the gasket kits? if so I would separate it and use rtv there. I found the gasket set I ordered for the 18 worth nothing.

redneckengineer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 10 Nov. 2010 Location: Chandler, AZ Status: Offline Points: 12	Post Options Post Reply Quote redneckengineer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Feb. 2011 at 7:19pm
	Well after a month of driving and the leak getting progressively worse to the point that I was loosing 3/4 of a bottle of gear oil every time I drove it, I decided to pull the transfer case and transmission. What I found was a homemade cardboard gasket that was leaking, looks like it came from a shoe box. It always amazes me what you will find in these old vehicles.

rrivera1833 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 28 Nov. 2009 Location: Quantico, VA Status: Offline Points: 507	Post Options Post Reply Quote rrivera1833 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 Feb. 2011 at 7:59pm
	Very true, but think about how long that (free) seal was in place actually working, that is what amazes me some times.
	2nd LT Rivera/ SSgt Rivera USMC 48 CJ2A T3-C Bantam #655

pplaut Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 26 Apr. 2020 Location: Colfax, NC Status: Offline Points: 68	Post Options Post Reply Quote pplaut Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 July 2020 at 2:15pm
	I have my bolts at 40 ft lbs and I swear oil is oozing out of the two bottom bolts. I just put the thing back together with new gasket and sealer. Thoughts? !P.
	Peer Plaut Jeep CJ-2A L4-134 Engine Coffee Mug

Joe Friday Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3654	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joe Friday Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 July 2020 at 4:36pm
	Did you use permatex #2 on the threads of the bottom bolts that pass thru to oil? Is the locking plate from reverse gear to the mainshaft dislocated and keeping the two from bolting together? I did that and broke an ear off the transfer case. I think Nick did too?

uncamoney Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 26 June 2019 Location: greeley co Status: Offline Points: 451	Post Options Post Reply Quote uncamoney Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 July 2020 at 5:00pm
	I thought about that plate as well. Yes, I played game before.
	john