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dasvis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 20 Nov. 2020 at 5:12am
Just finished up rebuilding my T90/D18 in my '47 CJ2A project. It will probably be 6~8 months before I can actually get this old Willys roadworthy. I'm assuming that I should set the assembly level & fill with GL1 gear oil for storage?  Thinking maybe tip it side to side to coat the innards & spin it over to distribute the oil over the gears to stave off rusting.
  Anything else I should be doing with it?
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Good plan.  Storing in a dry, consistent temperature is helpful & keeps corrosion off even unlubricated parts.  
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If you used assembly lube when putting the T90 together, you might want to put the GL1 in now.  Some of the assembly lubes will eat the gold metal parts during storage.  You might consider flushing the synchronizers with GL1 to get the assembly lube off of the synchronizers.

I rebuilt a T90C and had to replace the synchronizers when I got around to finally installing it a year later.
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

If you used assembly lube when putting the T90 together, you might want to put the GL1 in now.  Some of the assembly lubes will eat the gold metal parts during storage.  You might consider flushing the synchronizers with GL1 to get the assembly lube off of the synchronizers.

I rebuilt a T90C and had to replace the synchronizers when I got around to finally installing it a year later.

 Hmm, interesting....
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

If you used assembly lube when putting the T90 together, you might want to put the GL1 in now.  Some of the assembly lubes will eat the gold metal parts during storage.  You might consider flushing the synchronizers with GL1 to get the assembly lube off of the synchronizers.

I rebuilt a T90C and had to replace the synchronizers when I got around to finally installing it a year later.

Wow - I've not heard of that before.  I have one I did a while back with assembly lube. But its still waiting to go in Ermm
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Stev View Drop Down
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The assembly lube eat the points right off of the synchronizers.
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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I know there are several brands of assembly lube. I don't know if they are all the same or not. Which did you use?
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Points: 2177 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov. 2020 at 4:37pm
I used Lubegard green assembly goo. Out of curiosity, I just emailed lubegard customer service asking if it was safe for yellow metal parts, especially for long term storage.  I'll share their reply when I get it.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Points: 1550 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov. 2020 at 4:43pm
I used Dr Tranny # assembee goo # 19260 on mine. The blue stuff

I looked around & did not see any warnings about it's use on yellow metals.
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Stev View Drop Down
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Points: 2391 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov. 2020 at 4:47pm
I will look to see what I used.  It will be Monday before I will be able to reply with the type.
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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From the lubegard web site, the green is tackier than the blue. Also the green has a rust inhibitor added. The blue does not. I saw no mention of yellow metal. I just looked at my synchro rings. They look fine. Its been almost 2 years since I built it. But I may add some oil just to be safe.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Here is the reply I just received from Lubegard.

"Thank you for contacting us!

Lubegard Assemblee Goo is not going to damage or react with anything containing yellow metals. After the rebuild it's safe to store the unit with or without gear oil being added. The Goo will not react with any metals, even when stored for periods of time.

Please let me know if I can do anything else.

Best regards,

 

Elise Haviland x 14

Stellar Automotive Group | International Lubricants Inc.

Seattle, WA

Office: (206) 762-5343 x 14

Toll Free: (800) 333-5823"
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Points: 2391 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2020 at 1:14pm
Here is what I used that eat the yellow metal in my transmission: A product call Lubriplate No. 105 Motor Assembly Grease.
There is no warning on the container about it eating yellow metals.  

I wonder if most people who use these products - assemble the engine/ trans / transfer and put them into service during the next week to several months.  Mine sat for an entire year after being assembled.  
Stev
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Points: 2177 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2020 at 1:41pm
The Lubegard Assemblee Goo says it is designed for automatic and manual transmissions.  There must be a difference in formulation between motor and transmission assembly grease. I would have thought they would be the same, but apparently not. Good to know.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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