Trials and Tribulations |
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Redoing a few things I don't like. Got the new top done this evening.
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Got the new seat mount in, seat adjusted, and this thing is way more comfortable with my knees not in the dash. I can wear my boots now whereas before I couldn't operate the pedals with them on.
Since the day I put in the gas pedal it has given me fits and I finally fixed it (I think). The pedal was 2-3" off the floor and super uncomfortable to drive like that. I cut the pedal arm at the bend, cut out the gas pedal, and cut a door hinge in half. I wanted it to look decent so I planned to rivet the pedal and hinge but was out of 1/4 rivets. Oh well, bolts will have to do for now. I also capped the ends of the bumpers off to try and keep debris out. This corner survived a brush with the truck when it rolled off the pad (you might see some discoloration up top) and punched a hole in the bed, no big deal. So as it turns out, even though I messed up bending the outer ends, they protect the tail lights so accidental win. |
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Got another seat and made the framework for it.
I cut the new and old spring perches off the D44 and welded up the holes the factory drilled in the tubes. Something that's been bothering me is the low hanging transmission/transfer case. Since I cut the spring perches I can now make a new mount and bring everything off the ground. The only issue is the driveshaft needs to be lengthened a couple of inches. Actually, it'd be best if I had a double Cardan shaft but it's not in the budget. This new mount gives me 18" of ground clearance on the belly. |
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Well, it's in and after checking the angles a double cardan driveshaft is warranted, still, with that driveshaft, the working angle is a couple of degrees too extreme, and it'd need to be adjusted and even then it'd be at its limit. (according to an employee at tom woods) Currently: 88* at the D20 25* at the driveshaft 66* at the D44 The driveshaft I'm using is what came with that CJ5/T98/D18 combo and I took a couple of measurements. (Limiting strap might be in the future.) Center to Center 12 1/8 Collapsed 13 7/8 Extended End to End 13 3/8 Collapsed 15 1/8 Extended So options are to either leave the stock shaft in and rattle my fillings or double cardan and drop the transfer case down a couple of degrees. FFR the ride height is around 21 1/4". And there is the successful failure. Cut the header to make some adjustments. I talked to James at Adams driveshaft and gave him the driveshaft measurements and what not and he took the time to mock up a driveshaft. He said it (the joints) would work at 28* max (full droop situation) with a modified H yoke(?). The details escape me but I provided a few more numbers and he's going to see what it looks like. It has 2 1/2" of droop (tires started to come off the ground). Made a cardboard fuel tank to verify the fitment. 23" x 14" x 7.5" It fits between the frame and cross member without interference. It could actually be deeper but this will be fine. Should hold around 10 gallons. It'll be fairly simple with only a pickup tube, rollover valve, filler neck, a couple of baffles, and no sending unit. I might add a return in case fuel injection is added in the future. I thought about modifying a CJ sending unit/pickup and adding an in tank pump to it but I don't want to spend more money than necessary on this. |
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Had 12" shackles cut out. I put 1.5" of steel between the frame and spring eye then measured. It was just under 8" eye to eye. I drilled holes in the shackles at 8 1/8" or so. Much better. Now the spring can't hit the frame and it appears more level. I also welded in the passenger seat frame. Finalized fuel tank dimensions....22x14x8". My D20 is self draining now too. |
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Got my Hi-Lift mounted and welded on the rear view mirror. I should've used some pins for quick removal but didn't think of it until afterwards. Did a quick mockup of the Nissan calipers. The current brackets are very close to fitting but they are about an inch or so too short. The caliper would rub the outside of the rotor and I'd have to drill out the mounting ears on the bracket to make them fit anyhow.
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Here is the fuel tank puzzle.
New Spreader bar. steering column mount/support. I have it bolted through the dash but I could also mount it without going through the tub if I wanted to. I also put a couple C shaped pieces around the cage where the engine bay runners come through and bolt to the cage for protection. I still have to make gussets for them. Forgive the mess it's been awhile since I've had to use the stick welder. |
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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I spent hours whittling away at small tasks but finally got around to the brakes and such. The old Nissan calipers were rusted up and replacements cost $180 so I decided to pull the trigger on the EEBrake setup from Brennan. I didn't have any issues setting it up since I already customized some parts from the previous tracker disc brakes. I still have to wire them (independently) but that should only take a few minutes.
Instead of drilling more holes in the dash I decided to put the switches where I could reach them strapped down. I might end up putting a master kill switch here also. I ordered a driveshaft from Tom Wood and got it installed. Almost finished with the cage then it's coming out for welding, getting sanded down, and repainted. I'll add a brace behind the driver seat, a couple more points to the frame, and maybe more bracing running to and from the seat frames. I had to cut more floor out to expose the frame. |
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CJ3B
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Great progress!
I like the highlift jack! Looking forward to seeing pics of the beast in action. I hate those self draining t-cases |
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Got some gussets made and started welding them on and my old MM35 died yesterday. I have to grind this mess off and reweld.
Picked up the replacement for the old Miller. I figured I'd give the Hazard Fraud a try. If anyone does the EEBrake swap this might help. I got mine wired up this afternoon and they work. Also added a diagonal bar. |
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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More on the EEBrake stuff.
I went with a simple setup. They both work independently of one another. $40 calipers $120 Caliper brackets $20 organic brake pads $15 brake hose for a '13 ford fusion *I bought this hose to fix an issue I had so it's not needed if you have tracker disc brakes. Anything with a 10mm banjo fitting should fit. If you already have tracker brakes then you could reuse them, I did (driver side). If you use a 95 S10 2wd front brake hose it is a 10mm banjo and 3/8 on the other end so you don't need brake adapters. $15 DPDT momentary switches Tracker/samurai rotors * I had to drill the stud holes out with a 5/8 drill bit to sit flush on my wms.* Wiring is simple. I used a few different colors because that's what I had on hand. Don't leave the wire too tight or it could pull apart while the suspension does its thing. The wires will get covered in wire loom and tucked away. When you compress the caliper piston DO NOT force it in with a c clamp. It screws in clockwise. I used a pair of needle-nose pliers but they make a tool to do this. I had this fuel tank all figured out. Now I need to go back to the drawing board with the fuel pickup but other than that it fits like a glove. It could've been a few inches deeper. Had these brackets cut out for the shocks. Edited by 73 cj5 - 05 Feb. 2021 at 2:35am |
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Well, here it is in all its glory. Yep, that's 5/16 brake line hand bent for a pickup, return, and vent. You can somewhat weld brake line. My 99¢ paint ran like water since it was about 37° but the Rustoleum blue did the job surprisingly. I took carb cleaner and wiped off the overspray on the pickup, return, and vent afterward.
Barely noticeable. The filler neck is a piece of threaded pipe with a cap. Nothing fancy and real cheap. I'll make a bracket to bolt it to the tub and this can be wrapped up. |
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Added these gussets on the outriggers. Hopefully, they'll offer some support. I got the other shocks installed and brackets welded on. Added another brace for the steering gear. I couldn't tell if it was the steering gear or if it was the leaf springs moving though? Looked more like the leaf springs moving to me but the extra brace won't hurt. |
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CJ3B
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drm101
Member Joined: 12 Dec. 2012 Location: Clarkston, MI Status: Offline Points: 1468 |
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What clutch/brake pedal did you go with? I like yours because the brake is inboard of the steering column and close to the gas pedal.
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Dean
'47 CJ2A "Mud Hen" The less the Power the More the Force |
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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I'm using the factory clutch pedal, arm, and pivot tube. I took another clutch/brake arm tube and welded that to my engine bay runner and used the stock brake arm on it. The master cylinder is mounted to a 3/8 plate welded to the engine bay runner as well. Works great.
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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Side bars and the 3" piece might be used for driveshaft loops.
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CJ3B
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73 cj5
Member Joined: 07 Feb. 2014 Location: Mississippi Status: Offline Points: 203 |
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The side bars will have a piece of 3/8 plate welded on either end and then two more pieces of 3/8 plate will be welded to the cage and it will bolt to them so it can be removed. Kinda hard to hold this up there with one hand but this is about where they will sit on either side. I bought a length of 1/4 high test chain to use as driveshaft loops. I also have to make a new dash bar from a piece of 1 5/8" or larger.
Edited by 73 cj5 - 13 Feb. 2021 at 9:26am |
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CJ3B
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bobevans
Member Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
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Very nice. I wish I were that agile!
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'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
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