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Tubby build #13226

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mickeykelley View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Apr. 2022 at 3:20pm
I’m finally getting ready to start some of the work on Tubby.  We are planning a camping trip with the grand boys this summer to the mountains of Durango.  So first step will be to get the mechanicals set and wiring done.  I’ve already acquired the original Arrow glass lense taillights and license plate bracket. Cloth wire and asphalt loom on order.  Hinges here and will pickup a new floor from Midwest Military in June when we take a trip up that way.  This will be an over time project but try to get him usable for now.  Eventually, I’ll get him blasted and painted.  I’ll try to post pics as I go.

Edited by mickeykelley - 09 Apr. 2022 at 10:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2022 at 3:22pm
I had posted this in another section but realized I’d like to keep it all together so inserted it here too.

We are getting ready to take Tubby on a camping trip to the mountains of Colorado this summer with the grand boys. Wanting to go thru the hubs and make sure things are all good to avoid issues while on the road.  Which is a good thing because one wheel is being an issue of getting the lugs off.  So far even a small cheater bar has not helped as the wheel just spins since not enough weight.  So I’ve got it shot with penetrating oil, tried heating, etc.  Would have been a real issue if I had a flat on the road like this, so good thing I’m discovering this now.  I’ve got one side off so here goes the questions:

1:  Where do I get bearings, seals, etc.?  Several years ago, I read somewhere that they use the same parts as the jeeps, which would honestly make sense.  I have not look closely at the bearings but if they are original after 75 years, I’m thinking of just new.  Thoughts?  Definitely seals even though they are not really leaking. Is there a way to tell if original?

2:  Going to replace the lugs.  How do I find out the size?  Same a CJ?  I do have a press which I used to change the one out on the CJ5. EDIT****stupid alert.  As I was typing this I just realized, LEFT.  Went out to the garage and sure enough there is the L bigger than Dallas.  Good thing the tire just spun so no rim damage.  Which is exactly why I changed them out on the CJ and will on the wagon when I get to that stage.  Just gotta remember!

3:  I’ve got the same size tires (215/85/16) as the CJ so every thing is interchangeable.  They have not been on for any trips yet (in fact I don’t think I’ve even pulled it with them on) but there is prior evidence of wheel run against the tub. After 75 years who knows the past history etc.  But I do know at one point a PO cut the hinges and made a dump type and I found bits of gravel so there has been so heavy duty use, and the tub is swollen at some places including under the fenders.  I going to try to move the metal back in but only time will tell (already have a shrinking disk to try).  I can barely get a finger between the tire and the tub.  There doesn’t appear to be any run on the frame, just the upper part of the tub.  So frankly it may just be from the stretched metal of the tub.  Just how much does the tub move sideways when on the road and trails?  Not sure what is good clearance, but I’m thinking of maybe adding a spacer as a worst case solution so I need to make sure the lugs are long enough to handle that too.  Again, thoughts?

4:  I had gotten a upper shock mount from Art with the plan to add shocks.  I’ve also got the spring plate.  When I pull the nuts off the U bolts, should I replace them and the U bolts while I’m at it?  Is that really necessary?  

5:  The upper shock mount on the original T3’s was riveted on.  Bolt, weld on this one?

I'm sure I’ll come up with a few more as I do this.  Input is truly appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2022 at 3:45pm
Remember that the lugs on the left side are usually left hand threaded, so lefty tighty righty loosey.

1. They use the same hub as a CJ2A so same seals, races, bearings. wheel studs are the same. You can get bearings and seals pretty much from any of the usual suppliers. It's a Timken 18520 for the bearing and a 18590 for the race. Your local NAPA can cross reference those numbers for whatever they have in stock or have to order. I often go to Kaiser Willys because they're kinda the Amazon of Jeep parts. They have it but it may cost a little more, might be made in China, but if you spend a lot you get free shipping. They tend to stock Japanese made SKF bearings. Some people are weird about putting Japanese made parts on WWII era stuff. But they seemed to work fine so far for me.

2. If you're replacing lugs, they are likely swedged on like the Jeeps were. Get on youtube and look at metalshaper, he has a good video on removing the swedges. Some people just use a hole saw to remove the swedge then press them out. 

3. Not sure on this. I still run 6.00x16 but had a 7.50x16 on it before.

4. You should evaluate once you have them off. If the threads are torn up and there's a lot of pitting, U bolts are a cheap insurance policy. We reused the originals on T3C 1431 but in hindsight it was probably better to replace while we had it all apart.

5. Grade 8 bolts will likely be more than sufficient. I hope to bolt some shocks up to mine someday.
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2022 at 8:53pm
The beginning 
  Not sure why it turned it sideways 



And the other side showing the torn up fender from throwing rubber on the way home, along with the NOS replacement.  I’ll try to salvage the original but most like too far gone.  






Edited by mickeykelley - 09 Apr. 2022 at 9:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2022 at 9:27pm
I’m in the process of going thru the hubs on my Bantam T3-C in preparation for a camping trip this summer. I have no idea of the history of maintenance on it. I pulled everything today and to me they look fine. No marks on the races, nothing loose or broken and no excessive leaks out of the rear seals, no dark discolored metal. In fact nothing even really what I’d consider fresh and I’ve pulled it probably 3,000 miles, much of it at 70-75. I haven’t yet really cleaned the bearings but a good wiping they look fine. When I have pulled it, I stop and feel the hubs fairly frequently and have never felt any heat. The inner bearings could have used some more grease but still looked good, just very dark. The outer ones had plenty of grease and that is probably due to at some point a PO added a jerk in the cap. Not sure if it really gets grease in the bearings that way, especially the rear one, but it was full of fresh grease including mine. They are Timpkin made in the USA so probably older ones when things were made better. Thoughts on clean, inspect and repack if no marks or flat spots on bearings, vs replace with new.

Edited by mickeykelley - 09 Apr. 2022 at 10:54pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2022 at 10:30pm
And found this. So yes the PO just ran a screw in and broke it off instead of doing the proper bent tab.  But moving forward. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2022 at 10:51pm
Not sure these are swedged in since there is no brake drum, just the hub. 





Edited by mickeykelley - 09 Apr. 2022 at 10:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2022 at 10:25am
Looks like you're right, they didn't swedge them on the trailer. (I didn't look that closely on our T3C because I didn't know to a few years ago.)
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takesiteasy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2022 at 10:28am
I replaced the studs and lug nuts on my trailer. They just pressed out and new ones pressed in with no problem. I replaced the left-handed studs with new left-handed studs and nuts for history's sake.


Edited by takesiteasy - 10 Apr. 2022 at 7:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2022 at 5:28pm
Today got the bearings and hubs cleaned and they look good so already packed and waiting.  Definitely going to change the lefty’s but I’ll keep them in case the next caretaker wants to go back original.  Definitely got some tub bowing in the sides so going to try to address that before I put it back together.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2022 at 5:44pm
A PO had drilled and installed grease jerks in the bearing plates.  I have greased it using them, but after having it all apart and seeing the path, it “may” and I stress may, help get some grease to the outside bearing but definitely not the inside one.  And from the looks of it, the inside one had not been greased in quite awhile.  To get any from that jerk to the bearing would require filling that whole outer cavity with grease.  

Y’all’s thoughts on keeping the jerk vs replacing the plate.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2022 at 7:50pm
Nothing like a "jerk" trying to short cut a needed maintenance task by installing "zerks" just to be lazy.  Filling the entire cavity with grease doesn't help.  It will be a lot of wasted grease and will actually retain heat vs. dissipate.  Grease just the bearings as they should be (by hand or using a packer).

When you say "bearing plate" are you referencing the hub cap (flat plate over the hub center covering the bearings and adjustment/lock nuts)?  If that's where the zerq is, it could be repaired, e.g. welded.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mickeykelley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2022 at 10:22pm
Damn word correct. I get so tired of that and don’t always take time to verify as I one finger type very fast (part of me being in tech) but eyes don’t always catch "jerk" things.  

Wasn’t really sure what the plate was called but yes that round flat thing with like 6 holes in it that bolts to the outside of where you access the bearings.  So yes I guess the hub cap.  
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