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Using ramps vs jack stands for T90/D18/clutch swap |
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ndnchf 
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 Topic: Using ramps vs jack stands for T90/D18/clutch swapPosted: 27 July 2020 at 2:44pm |
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I'm trying to get my ducks in a row for an upcoming T90/D18 swap and new clutch install. I know I'll need to raise the jeep up a good bit to get clearance to remove/replace it with the bellhousing. I'm thinking of using 4 ramps to get it up, rather than jack stands. It seems like this would be easier and more stable, yet still provide enough clearance. I'll be in the garage with a concrete floor. What do you guys think? Pros/Cons?
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Tartone
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 3:13pm |
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Me personally, I am a jack stands kind of guy. But if I was going to do a clutch install and TRANNY/TCASE swap, I would honestly pull the engine. I have down it twice now, the first time I pulled the entire powertrain including the TCASE. The second time I pulled just the engine and left the tranny in place. If you are doing a complete T90/D18 swap I would pull it all as one unit through the front. Reason being, it was much easier for me to align the dowel pin bolts, bell housing, and engine with it out of the vehicle. More room to work and I could use multiple jacks to align it. It beats lying on your back trying to work something in with a floor mounted tranny jack. It really is just a slight amount of more work.
Just my .02
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 3:43pm |
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Jack stands it is. They provide stability that a ramp doesn't because there is a possibility that a ramp will allow the jeep to roll forward or backward.
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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Oldpappy
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 4:19pm |
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I agree with Tartone.
I am 65 years old with arthritic joints. I too would rather pull the whole thing and do it without having to crawl under the Jeep too much. I would remove the entire front clip and radiator, then you don't even have to lift it too high before rolling the Jeep out from under it. Good time to clean up the engine bay, and check the wiring and plumbing.
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If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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eestes1
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 4:34pm |
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okay, I have to ask- what's the front clip include? Thanks
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Rick Estes
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TERRY
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 4:43pm |
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Fenders, grill, radiator.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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eestes1
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 4:45pm |
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Thanks, Terry
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Rick Estes
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ndnchf
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 4:50pm |
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Thanks for the replies, but I think we are drifting from the original question. I think the ramps would be safe and stable. With the parking brake set, wheels sitting in the ramp depressions and blocked, I don't think it will roll anywhere. I've used jack stands many times and am always careful to make sure they are well placed and stable. But it just dawned on me that I have 4 ramps and that might be a better option. They would raise it 7-8".
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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WillysWally
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 5:24pm |
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Good Afternoon NDNCHF: If you do use ramps, you should probably chock one pair of wheels in each direction. I also agree that removing the front clip and pul;ling the power pack as a unit is really the best way. It may appear to be more work, but it will be much easier to get the transmission re-attached. OR You could do it the Army way!!! On its side!!! LOL  Good Luck!Regards, Walter
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duffer
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 5:46pm |
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I also think the ramps would be fine but as above, definitely chock at least one axle or the other. I have always just pulled the t-case/transmission. That is WAY less time than pulling the engine. With a decent transmission jack, you can have the T90/D18 out on the floor in less than 1 1/2 hours. It takes a little finesse to get it all lined up for the install but it isn't that difficult.
A good transmission jack makes it a whole lot easier. Even a HF version would be a big help.
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1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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oldscot3
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 6:08pm |
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I've used both... what I don't like about ramps is they tend to slide sometimes when you're driving up on them. Most ramps I've seen don't have room for wheel chocks either. For little jobs like oil changes I'll use ramps but for bigger jobs I prefer quality jackstands, properly placed.
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James 4:6 God resists the proud, but gives grace to the humble.
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nofender
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 6:23pm |
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Your parking brake won't do you much good once you start to remove important bits.
I've never been a ramp guy. But it seems like what you plan would be fine. As others have mentioned a couple wheel chocks or wedges in opposite directions sure wouldn't hurt. I'm just thinking of potential pulling/tugging to get the trans out and in could be a factor. Better safe than sorry.
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46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
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athawk11
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 6:29pm |
I agree with Duffer. If you are using a TC/Transmission Jack, make sure it extends high enough to reach the gear boxes while the Jeep is on the vehicle ramps. Same is true with the jack you use to support the back of the engine. If your jacks don't reach, use your jack stands. If you're not using a transmission jack, you might find it to be more comfortable having the Jeep a little closer to the floor. There is a middle "zone" between laying flat on your back and sitting straight up. If your ramps are high enough to put you in this "zone" you'll find the job to be more physically challenging. Edited by athawk11 - 27 July 2020 at 6:42pm |
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2- 1949 CJ3A |
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OnlyOneDR
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 6:30pm |
This. Unless the brakes were changed at some point to have integral parking brakes (later CJ 11") then the parking brake goes away when the T-case is removed. I use ramps to change the oil on my wife's car and not much else. I have not yet found a set I feel 100% comfortable with when laboring under a vehicle with stuck bolts, big wrenches, etc. Not to mention they have a tendency to scoot on smooth surfaces (ie. concrete.)
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Searching for time to put it all together...
1950 CJ-3A #37751 In Pieces 1969 Chevy Blazer Resto-Mod Waiting for its day... 2001 Nissan Frontier Crawler Adventure Rig |
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ndnchf
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 6:37pm |
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Good point about the parking brake not being much good after its disconnected. I forgot about that
 I would definitely chock the wheels. I'm also making an adapter to bolt the trans to the trans jack. The jack has X and Y axis tilt capability to aid in lining up the shaft to the pilot bearing. This is a mock up if it.  |
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldmansimek
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 6:38pm |
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Use jack stands (not from harbor freight) they are safer and you can put them where you want, ramps take up a lot of real estate especially on a really small vehicle. Do not pull the motor just drop the trans and t-case together.
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ndnchf
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 6:43pm |
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Another thought - I could also expand the brake shoe adjusters to lock the wheels. I have later self adjusting 11" brakes on the front, so this would be easy to do.
This is what will be going in.  Edited by ndnchf - 27 July 2020 at 6:59pm |
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Bufordjeep
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Posted: 27 July 2020 at 7:28pm |
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ndnchief - If you're willing to share, would appreciate seeing your final adapter design to bolt the trans / TC to the jack. Keeping the assembly on the jack during R&R has been sketchy. Thanks! Bob
Edited by Bufordjeep - 27 July 2020 at 7:37pm |
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duffer wrote: