Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > General Discussion
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - value of old willys engine
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

value of old willys engine

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12
Author
Message
Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 25 Sep. 2016
Location: CO Springs CO
Status: Offline
Points: 2961
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 5:05pm
Welcome to the page, newtojeep!
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
Back to Top
newtojeep View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 12 Apr. 2019
Location: Vilas, North Ca
Status: Offline
Points: 8
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote newtojeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 7:58pm
Well thanks folks for your words of advice and encouragement. It appears my sad old jeep may not be worth much for anything more than my original intention to use it as yard art. The jeep frame is rusted through, the windshield frame is half gone and the glass is in terrible shape. Since there is no number behind the water pump perhaps it is not an original engine. It does have the words willys and jeep on top of engine, (see new pics). I guess not every jeep can live on. However I hope someone will want the engine and radiator since they will be in the way of what i intend to do with it. I may try to get them out myself.
Back to Top
newtojeep View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 12 Apr. 2019
Location: Vilas, North Ca
Status: Offline
Points: 8
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote newtojeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 8:02pm
Back to Top
rocnroll View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 20 July 2005
Location: Tuscumbia, AL
Status: Offline
Points: 11505
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr. 2019 at 11:21pm
Pull the draw bar off before you junk it....somebody will need that somewhere down the line.

If you have room to store stuff it's wise to pull off any little nick back that bolts on. The major pieces are fairly easy to get its little stuff sometimes that's hard to track down.

Wasn't long ago somebody was looking for clamps that hold the e brake cable on the body, somebody was looking for carb brackets.....it's just the little stuff sometimes.

Good luck with it.

'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty

"Common sense is not that common"
Back to Top
19Cargo42 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Apr. 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Status: Online
Points: 36
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 19Cargo42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr. 2019 at 12:00am
If you do part this out, let me know. I'm looking at another jeep that's missing some parts that you have on this one, including the drawbar, the wiper motor, the fan shroud and the footman loops. I should know in the next week or so if I'm buying the jeep that I'm looking at. If so, let's connect.

Sincerely,

John
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 369
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2019 at 10:00am
Wow Russell !
   That Willys makes mine look ready-to-hunt.    hahahaha

   I bought a rough '46 in December 2017 telling the wife that it is Yard-Art to look at each day, with a "calming-effect" on the brain.

   Up here in northern California, I would say your engine could fetch $250 or maybe more depending on buyer.   If the engine turns over I would pay $250 just because of the value in the block, crank, rods, manifolds, etc.
   When you begin pricing all of the engine parts individually, the $$$ add up quickly.   As a For instance:   if you need a reground crankshaft, and don't have one, most machine shops will require a $200 core fee.

   That Willys looks like it was driven-hard and put-away-wet many times.

   If you purchase raffle-tickets this week over on the g503 interest forums the MDJuan company, who manufactures replacement bodies is raffling off a complete body package this weekend, or until tickets are sold out.

   If I were to use that for yard-art, my wife would probably throw me and my clothes out onto the front lawn (with the yard-art).    :)

   What to do, oh, and welcome to the group !

Russell,
   I don't know where Vilas, is, but I am in Anderson, south of Redding.
Here is a link to info for the large Vintage Military Vehicle gathering up on highway 49 at Plymouth, Calif. which is supposedly south of Placerville.
    Rubicon-Country is north and east up above Placerville.

https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=302490

    I will be making the drive early Friday (6-hour drive) with hopes of a noon arrival.   If you have questions you may text or call me @ 530-917-7217
    I too am wondering engine values, as I will be selling my two GPW engine blocks and cranks up there. I will haul them up and leave them in space 224, which will be the campsite of Doug O'Neil, (NDNile on the g503 interest forum)

    I have not yet cleaned the blocks to my satisfaction, but Doug says the two engines will be "spoken-for" by late Friday, or early Saturday morning.

    If you are close enough, you might want to go do a walk through. Friday will be my First time for the Vintage meet, which will be interesting.
The Vintage Military Vehicle meet begins tomorrow through Sunday.
    I am hoping to meet some interesting people up there or vendors.
Doug says the campsites are used like a swap-meet booth.
    Hope you can make it to find more Yard Art !

    Len
Back to Top
19Cargo42 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Apr. 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Status: Online
Points: 36
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 19Cargo42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2019 at 11:26am
Hi Len,

I think Vilas is in North Carolina, but I could be wrong. Hopefully Russell can confirm.

Regarding your GPW blocks, if either one is 240019, let me know. That's the serial number for my '44. Given the issues with Ford blocks in late '44 cracking, I'm 99.99 percent sure my original is long gone, but I figure it never hurts to ask.

Sincerely,

John


Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 369
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2019 at 12:19pm
the best engine is std bore with std crank.




the other GPW block bore is .020 over with ring groove and crack above distributor, and the crank is .020 over and needs ground to .040:




I should have posted this on a separate page, but the numbers will answer your question.
Back to Top
19Cargo42 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Apr. 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Status: Online
Points: 36
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 19Cargo42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2019 at 12:34pm
Thanks for the speedy response. No luck for me, but perhaps for two others. Have you posted them on the g503.com board?

Quick observation: It looks like 92601 is a restamping, and I'm guessing the data plate on the block references the depot that did the job. Is that correct?

Sincerely, 

John
Back to Top
mbullism View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 3

Joined: 29 May 2015
Location: MA
Status: Offline
Points: 2732
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2019 at 1:21pm
Originally posted by Greaser007 Greaser007 wrote:

I would say your engine could fetch $250 or maybe more depending on buyer.   If the engine turns over I would pay $250 just because of the value in the block, crank, rods, manifolds, etc.
   When you begin pricing all of the engine parts individually, the $$$ add up quickly.   As a For instance:   if you need a reground crankshaft, and don't have one, most machine shops will require a $200 core fee.

I'm curious... you guys are really paying $250 for a sealed up engine that just spins with a wrench?  Yes, there's more value in the parts alone, but an unopened engine is a black box, and parting it out takes time and effort, shipping(?) and invariably you get your money back right around the time you run out of buyers for the rest.  Sure you may move all of it over time, but I'm not in the parts business.  

I can't justify $250 for the real possibility of a cracked block or head, scored cylinders or crank or busted cam, etc. etc... because then I'm the guy looking to buy a crank before I even have to worry about machine shop work.  Now that $250 dollar engine cost me 250+200 to start putting money into it.  You can't just run out and buy one cheaper, but you can pick them up cheaper when they come available.

I get prices vary around the country (living in the northeast we're no stranger to overpriced rust buckets)... I also get it's different if you NEED it and can't wait (and military stuff is a different animal)

I maybe have $400 in these, they came with bolt ons, etc... one I've heard run, one is stuck, the other two are standard bore (one maybe needs a sleeve but I got to see inside both before buying them).

.


I mean, what jeep owner isn't going to answer this ad?

.


Yes, it's an F and not and L, and yes it "was" stuck, but the oil filter/carb/distributor yada yada have got to be worth the ride...  Id've not paid $250 for any of them.
1946 CJ2A #69750 - "Plowshare"
Bantam T3-C #15849
2016 JK unlimited (Hers)
1969 Kaiser CJ5 (sold)

Analog spoken here....
Back to Top
19Cargo42 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Apr. 2018
Location: Washington, DC
Status: Online
Points: 36
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 19Cargo42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2019 at 2:03pm
I think your summary is spot on. From my experience with my '44 GPW (which has its own brand of F-script madness), parts acquisition pretty much boils down to a matrix of time, money, and need. (By way of example, I was thrilled to buy a cracked block that will need to be stitched, sleeved, decked and possibly line bored simply because it had the exact casting date that I needed to match the DoD on the Jeep.)

If I do purchase the '45 CJ2A I'm looking at, I'll be on the prowl for very specific things like a correctly dated head to match the engine timeframe, so I imagine that will require some patience on my end (or really, really good luck on Craigslist!) 

Sincerely,

John
Back to Top
Greaser007 View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Jan. 2018
Location: Anderson, Calif
Status: Offline
Points: 369
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2019 at 2:39pm
As I looked at the photo from the rear, I noticed that it does have tailgate chains holding things together.   hahaha
And those spark plug depressions in the head has been holding crud for awhile.
But, it has numbered tags and possible a Title, which is worth $$ to some folks.

Yep, an unopened engine is a real gamble, like putting the money on red or black.
And many times a seller is reluctant to remove the head.
Typically in my neck of the woods, an L134 rebuild is from $2500 to $3500.
That $$ inclines me to roll-the-dice on occasion.
Geeze, anymore, just stepping into a cross-walk is a Gamble.

And too, it seems that once we make a decision to purchase a compromise, then the following week, the "good-buy" rears it's head, and the $$ have already been spent. Buy high, and sell low.   hahahaha

   Here is a photo of a Willys for sale I saved off of Craigslist recently:




There are probably many of these old Willys slumbering in the woods.

I bought a 1969 455 Olds marine engine to get the "C" heads. haha, the buyer said the engine sat last year uncovered. I felt it had probably sat for several decades full of water. I was correct, and very happy to get those heads, and no water got into the pan, so I have a good crank and rods and a spare block, once I soak the pistons for several summers with Marvel Mystery.
    My guess is the pistons are corroded to the cylinder walls.

   I still like those Tailgate Chains !! and they are up to task.

   Speaking of pinning and stitch crack repair check out the repair made on the big engine on the following website and supplier:

http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html

http://www.locknstitch.com/engines-casting-repair-industry.html


   Very cool
   

Edited by Greaser007 - 15 Apr. 2019 at 2:48pm
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <12
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.