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Very rough 1948
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Steve.. View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 Aug. 2020 at 4:21pm
For starters THANK YOU ALL! for taking the time to post your solutions to problems across all of this forum. I have countless hours researching here to find the answers I need. 

I wouldn't own a Jeep if this one hadn't come up for sale. 40 some years ago I watched this jeep plow my grandparents driveway. From then on this is the jeep I wanted.  Somewhere between 2000-2005 I tried to buy it and it wasn't for sale. Here in 2020 he was ready to sell it to someone that would rebuild it. So here it is. Finally in my driveway. 

I started to put the body on yesterday and already have a question. When I bolted the fenders on I needed to jack up the body about 3/4". The fenders seem to fit the grill just fine. It seems that rear of the fender is too high because its sitting on the frame. I don't know if I should use about an 1" of body pad or if i should cut away some of the lower fender. 
Thanks for your help!
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Michaeltru View Drop Down
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Got pics of the bottom of the tub?  The mounting points of body to frame?
Mike in AZ
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Steve.. View Drop Down
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Here are a few. The gap is consistent at 3/4". 






3/4" gap here. Its consistent across all the body mount spots


Here the fender is resting on the frame. This is where I think I need to remove material.
Thanks for your help!
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"Just this novice's observation!"
Ah, yeap! looks like you might want to add the missing bushings!
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Steve.. View Drop Down
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I should have better worded my question. It seems strange to me that I would need 1" of bushings when I removed a worn out 1/4" from the mounts. Is this normal? If it is, then I won't start cutting the fenders. 
Thanks for your help!
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Did you replace the tub with an aftermarket body kit? I didn't read that in your posting; that could be part of your issue. I did notice that at least one of the body to frame brackets were bent downward. This could contribute to the gap you are noticing.
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Steve.. View Drop Down
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Yes it's aftermarket body kit. I noticed the one mount that's bent down also. A few wacks and it'll be bent straight again. 

Thanks for your help!
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  With it being an after market body I would line up the body to the clutch, brake arm and steering column holes and go from there.

Jim
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Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:


  With it being an after market body I would line up the body to the clutch, brake arm and steering column holes and go from there.

Jim



X2!

With a repop body kit the fit isn't going to be perfect. (Ol' Red has a repop body kit) Like Wee Willy says, mount the body to the frame using the correct mounting hardware and fit the fenders to the tub. They won't match, but will be close.(make sure your clutch and brake pedals line up with the holes in the tub first) The hardest part will be bolting the fender reinforcements to the frame. I bolted the fenders to the body loosly and then pulled the fender mounts to the frame using an round aligning punch to pry the first mounting hole in line with the frame hole. After getting the first hole in, the second should be very close to being in line. Go through and tighten up the fender to tub bolts a little at a time and the metal will pull everything in the the correct angles. After you have the fender to tub bolts tightened then you can tighten the fender to frame bolts down. The fenders will eventually conform properly to the tub. I have had my fenders off a couple of times since I originally put them together the first time and they now fit properly.   
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Steve.. View Drop Down
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Thank you very much for the tips! 
By fitting the tub to the frame 1st it looks like I'll need to cut off some of the lower fender. How much I don't know yet. It'll need to be whatever it takes to keep the fender,hood grill fitting properly. 

I have been researching body mounting and body bushings and have ran across several threads that mention different thickness bushings/pads for the different mounting places. There is one picture that shows positions 1-6 with a list of bolts size, length. I cannot find a list or any information as to what thickness pad corresponds to each of the numbered mount locations. Do any of you have the list handy? 





Edited by Steve.. - 31 Aug. 2020 at 1:48am
Thanks for your help!
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Steve.. View Drop Down
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Well, putting the steering column in when the body is on is a task. Off came the fender, the steering column tube and finally its in. Now I have to tighten up the break, clutch peddles and go from there. It still seems the fenders will need a major adjustment. I think if I cut the lip off the bottom edge that parallels the frame it'll lap the frame instead of resting on it. We'll see soon....

Thanks for all the tips

Steve
Thanks for your help!
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a4cj2a77 View Drop Down
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Would be interesting to see if the hood edge is parallel to the fender top before you take off metal. Also read OE fenders and hood do not play well with after market sheet metal. Just reread the post and Steve had mentioned hood, fender alignment, my mistake.
Phil


Edited by a4cj2a77 - 09 Sep. 2020 at 8:19pm
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Steve,

The first pictures of your Jeep show that it is a 1948 Lefty!  You should move bow pockets and spare tire mount to your new tub.

Leftys are an interesting group of CJ2As that were made for about a 3 month period in 1948.   They ended up in the regular Jeep market, the Farm Market and a bunch of them ended up in the Middle East as Military Desert Jeeps in Israel.  

 
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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Originally posted by a4cj2a77 a4cj2a77 wrote:

Would be interesting to see if the hood edge is parallel to the fender top before you take off metal. Also read OE fenders and hood do not play well with after market sheet metal. Just reread the post and Steve had mentioned hood, fender alignment, my mistake.
Phil

I have been keeping a close eye on the fender, grill and hood fitment. With maxing out the fender adjustments the right side of the hood is a good 3/8" higher off the fender than the left side. The hood is parallel to the fenders on both sides. I think I'll oval some mounting holes and see if I can get the left/ right gaps closer before I cut the bottom off the fender. 

Thanks 
Steve
Thanks for your help!
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Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

Steve,

The first pictures of your Jeep show that it is a 1948 Lefty!  You should move bow pockets and spare tire mount to your new tub.

Leftys are an interesting group of CJ2As that were made for about a 3 month period in 1948.   They ended up in the regular Jeep market, the Farm Market and a bunch of them ended up in the Middle East as Military Desert Jeeps in Israel.  

 

WOW!!! thanks much for pointing that out! I ran across a few Leftys mentioned on different threads and took a look at mine and saw 4 holes on the right side that looked like a tire mount. So with that, I dropped the thought. 



As soon as I got home I took a closer look. Yeppers!! The spare tire reinforcement inside the new tube is on the right side. My original is on the left. 

That leaves me with more questions. 
Is the spare tire mount of the same design from left to right? I didn't get the mount with the Jeep. ***Researched it tonight***seems they are the same left to right

Also, I'm missing the rear bow pocket. I would think that it would be a mirror of the one used on the right side? Is the correct way of thinking? ***researched it tonight*** yes, lefts are a mirror of the right. 



Thanks! all the information is greatly appreciated! 

Steve


Edited by Steve.. - 10 Sep. 2020 at 3:45am
Thanks for your help!
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Durkus View Drop Down
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I made my spacers out of this material from Amazon
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Steve.. View Drop Down
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I can't see the link/image. I will be needing several more shims than they originally came with. 

Thanks
Steve
Thanks for your help!
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Take a look at urethane body pucks made for a CJ-5.  Energy Suspension used to (still does?) make them.  They're about 3/4" thick, come in red and black.
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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