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Weber 32/36 DGV Settings for the Group

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52 M38 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Weber 32/36 DGV Settings for the Group
    Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 8:59am
I wanted to post these for the group since it took some time for me to iron them out. 
This is for the Weber 32/36 DGV.  This setting has worked very well for me and will at least get anyone else very close to a good setting:

Idle Jets 55/50
Main Jets 175/170
Air Corr Jets 200/190
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 9:11am
I would think that would all be relative to what it was running on. What is it running on? Not a jeep I hope.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 9:21am
On my M38 of course.  It made all the difference in the world as far as power.  It is much more tunable than the stock carb, which I still have.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 1:51pm
Interesting choice of carburetor, I've used these on foreign engines. No reason it won't work on an old jeep. My Datsun 2.0L uses jetting of:

Idle= 55
Main primary= 155
Main secondary= 145

The 134 is around a 2.3L so you're right in there. The only thing with these carbs is that by the time you get them jetted correctly all the threaded holes are stripped out from removing the top of the carb! Do you have any photos of this setup?
47 CJ2A
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Forgive me if I don't return the "jeep wave", I need both hands on the wheel!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 5:13pm
There are a couple of options for mounting the Weber:  1.  You can make your own intake, which I plan to do next year.  2.  Have an adapter built specifically for you.  This is what I did.  One of the members on here had a cad template and a friend of mine owns a CNC business.  3.  Spend some time and find one of the commercially available adapters, they are out there.  4.  Use a Kaiser intake or maybe a Willys truck intake that has the wider spread studs and use the terrible adapter that Weber provides.  If you do some reading on the subject of going from a double and throating it down to a single point you will only see about a 10-15% power gain, if you have an intake that allows the double barrel to flow directly into the intake you are able to increase power to about 20-25%.  I really like the set-up I have, but the tinkering is what I love to do, the incremental improvements.  In the second photo you can just barely see the lettering on my Supersonic head.  For those who are worried the plastic white zip ties are NOS.  There is a snorkel cap for the Weber that will transition it over to the cross over pipe, but that is a plan for years to come.

 



Edited by 52 M38 - 22 Nov. 2014 at 5:15pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 6:40pm
Originally posted by 52 M38 52 M38 wrote:

if you have an intake that allows the double barrel to flow directly into the intake you are able to increase power to about 20-25%. 

With a stock duration cam on an L-134? I don't think so. I built a lot of race cars and did a lot of racing. If a simple carb and manifold swap could boost power by 20-25% it would have set the hot rod world on fire. With a longer duration cam, a true high compression racing head, polished ports, custom tuned intake manifold, and a much beefed up ignition system you might come close to 25% on a small 4 banger flathead.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 6:59pm
I am very happy with this set-up.  The power difference of the incremental changes has been impressive.  I have stuck to my original plan of only bolt-on mods. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 7:19pm
Rocketeer I believe what 52 MB38 is saying is that the total of his external engine improvements has resulted in a 20% improvement.
 
I took a fresh rebuilt Ford 200 6L in my wifes 1967 Mustang and with the following external changes went from a car that Road and Track in 1967 got 19.5 MPG and got an average of 26MPG commuting 85 miles a day on two lane country roads and some in town miles.
 
Petronix magnetic trigger in newer 1968 distributor that allowed adjustable mechanical and vacuum advance.
MSD 6A spark box
Accel Hi performance coil and Accel suppersion high performance ignition wires
Electric Fan
Electric Fuel pump w/Pressure regulator
Holley Weber 5200 progressive 2bbl 270 CFM on a 3/4" thick adapter I made my self from Aluminum
Phenolic spacer (helps keep the carb cool)
Fresh air intake using 2.5" vacuum cleaner hose an aluminum sauce pan a 2" ABS pipe elbow and a K&N cone type airfilter places just on the outside of the core support just under the lip of the hood
Clifford research 3/4 exhaust port splitter
Cilfford Research 6 into 1 header flowing into a mandrel bent 2.25" exhaust passing through a 2.5" inlet/outlet Turbo muffler with a short 2.5" tail pipe
 
1977 RUG 4 spd with a 18% OD in 4th
 
The car had way more power in the bottom end and would cruise along at 100 to 110 mph like it wanted more. (Hwy 139 in CA. we did it for almost 45 min)
 
We ran the car like this for well over 120K before selling it to a college girl.
 
All the little things can add up.
 
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1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GeorgiaFlattie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2018 at 12:19pm
IIRC you've since swapped to a v6 but what were your long term experiences with this carb?



Originally posted by 52 M38 52 M38 wrote:

... For those who are worried the plastic white zip ties are NOS.... 

LOLLOLLOL



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Dec. 2018 at 7:54pm
I never actually made the engine swap.  The fully rebuilt zero mile Dauntless, T15 with adapter, and late model T18 are all sitting nicely in my barn next to Sparky.  Perhaps next year...I have been saying that for quite some time. 

The Weber has performed very well.  It took some time to dial it in, I am sure I could still make some improvements tuning it. The only drawback I have found is it doesn’t do angles aswell as the original Carter.  If you primarily drive on the pavement, the performance and reliability are great.  If you want to rock crawl, build yourself a fuel injection system.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GeorgiaFlattie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 9:23am
Ok, I'm in the process of doing the 6-12 months of research before I upgrade my carb to either a Weber 32/36 or a very small Motorcraft 2100.  The dual stage of the Weber is attractive as is the tune-ability. The toyota guys figured out how to make the Weber carbs run better off-camber so I'm not as worried about that.

The FI option is attractive but I bought a Willys for the rugged simplicity so I'm trying to keep it that way.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 10:42am
Interesting modification on the Choke bowl vent. I'll have to think about doing that to my carb.

Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 10:49am
Originally posted by 52 M38 52 M38 wrote:


The Weber has performed very well.  It took some time to dial it in, I am sure I could still make some improvements tuning it. The only drawback I have found is it doesn’t do angles aswell as the original Carter.  If you primarily drive on the pavement, the performance and reliability are great.  If you want to rock crawl, build yourself a fuel injection system.  

My son has this Weber on 4.2L in CJ-7.    It does well offroad in fairly steep angles.    The carb is rotated 90 degs from photo shown above, however.   ie. the float bowl is pointing to front of engine.   I think I read somewhere that make quite a bit of difference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 10:55am
Look up Brennan's Garage on FaceBook. Brennan Metcalf has invented a mod for Motorcraft 2100 to improve it's performance in steep angle and off camber situations. 
That's what he runs on his super modified MB Rango. 


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59 Chevy 1/2 ton
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GeorgiaFlattie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 2:19pm
I'm familiar with Rango and Brennan's tweaks which is why the 2100 is being considered but the 2100 is synchronous where as the 32/36 is progressive which has it's perks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec. 2018 at 8:32pm
I wrote a whole post on how to clock a Weber and why not having it clocked properly with the bores 90 degrees to the Intake manifold runner will cause not only problems but imbalance.

The positives are both runners are the same distance from the Primary and Secondary barrels, The Float works better on inclines or declines (though it could be better) the Fuel inlet points right at the Left fender. Choke cable lines up better.

The two draw backs are the adapter or manifold is a little harder to make and of course you need to put a 90 degree bellcrank in the throttle linkage.

I have so far seen to guys kindly offer up their tuning numbers on the DGV 32/36 on the 134L and they vary a little (could be altitude or even what kind of mixture numbers are being sought)

I know what these carbs can do when properly adjusted My Wifes 67 Mustang with the 200 L6 was amazing. (it was actually a Holley Weber 5200 but basically the same carb slightly smaller CFM rating)
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lylew2@gmail.com Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar. 2019 at 1:46pm
I'm looking for that magical webber 2V to L-134 in my M38... You mentioned that you have a CAD of an adapter you used, how much would your friend want?

Cheers, Lyle
Cheers:
Lyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar. 2019 at 2:01pm
He was very nice to burn me one.  There is an off the shelf adapter out there that if found after the fact.  I think that adapter was $40.  Let me see if I can find it again. 
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