WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011) |
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WellFedHobo
Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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I wouldn't doubt that some part of it was Omix, which is probably why the brass fitting doesn't seal. Everything else is fine, no leaks, it's just the master cylinder...
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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dasvis
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1546 |
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Make sure the flare nuts are long enough to thread in & push the flared tubing against the seat. If you use too short of nut it won’t.
They do make different length nuts.
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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WellFedHobo
Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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The flare nuts are long enough for sure. There's thread sticking out when they're on tight. I know I've got some air in the lines now but when I press on the pedal, I've got brake fluid leaking out the boot on the back of the new master cylinder. That doesn't seem... ideal?
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1497 |
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Sounds like a bad master.
Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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Jeff J
Member Joined: 12 Mar. 2018 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 439 |
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Could be the incorrect flare angle on one of the parts.
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9649 |
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As I’m sure you’re aware, it’s very easy to cross-thread these lines, those two in particular. Once cross-threaded into that brass block they’ll never go straight. When started straight in undamaged threads they should thread in by hand to the seat. A wrench should only ever be needed to tighten them, not to turn them in.
I’ve seen those deep flare nuts on pre-made parts store lines, but ive never seen a place where they are needed. Since I usually(always) have to cut one end off anyway, I scrap the long nut and put on a short one. Why, you may ask? Well, because, that long nut is not original to a CJ2-A! 😆😎 BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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WellFedHobo
Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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I was careful not to cross thread them. I've checked and the fitting isn't damaged at all. |
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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dasvis
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1546 |
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That's the cost of learning. Everyone has been there at one point.
Once you finally get to the point of driving it the past will be behind you.
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1497 |
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Don’t get down on your project. This is often how they go. My first restoration took eight years with all kinds of issues. My second took a year extra because of the idiots at the paint, engine and tuners. You will be happy and proud when it is done. Keep plugging on. You are almost there.
Micah
Edited by Steelyard Blues - 05 Nov. 2022 at 12:17am |
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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nofender
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 10 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 2035 |
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Don't give up! We've all been there. I've done two full frame offs back to back. Each took two years. Each almost got pushed out of the shop and lit on fire multiple times. I feel your pain! But you are almost there! That Jeep is making you earn it - like they all do. I'm coming up on two years with my column shift and I'm nowhere near close to driving it. So you're doing good!
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46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
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WellFedHobo
Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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I needed a morale boost after the past week for a number of reasons so I worked on a few last minute items and got the Jeep running again. It helps if you remember to tighten down EVERY OIL LINE.... but I got it figured out pretty quickly. I realized that there wasn't a lot of stuff stopping me from running it. I just can't drive it because it can't stop on the steep hills of my neighborhood or my driveway.
It still doesn't idle well. Don't know why. It's a brand new modern reproduction Carter WO. But it's got about 50 PSI of oil pressure when it runs. The transfer case drain plug leaked a little and the fill plug did a little as well. Got those tightened up. The cracked transmission still leaks a little, especially when the oil is warm. But I'll just deal with it for now. Basically if I had brakes, I would be able to back it down the driveway right now and go for a shakedown drive.
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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dasvis
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1546 |
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Mike would not idle well either when I first got it running.
I found that I had a cracked intake manifold & it was leaking air. |
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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WellFedHobo
Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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It's running extremely rich based on the exhaust smell. It's rich enough to burn your eyes if you are standing behind it. I'm wondering if it's something like a weak spark due to worn out points and condenser. The coil, plugs, and wires are new but I still haven't gotten around to replacing the cap, rotor, points, and condenser. Not sure if it's incomplete combustion or what. The carb theoretically shouldn't need to be adjusted but I can go that route soon.
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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Michaeltru
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Oct. 2012 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 988 |
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Just ‘cause the carb is new doesn’t mean it’s set up correctly. Pull a spark plug or two to check for color. Choke is completely open when warmed up?
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Mike in AZ
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WellFedHobo
Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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New master cylinder is in. This one is from Joe's Motor Pool. We'll see if it's better than the one I had. The pre-formed lines I had ordered don't fit all that well but with some extra bends, I think it'll work. I ran out of daylight and energy and I don't know if I'll have time to bleed them and check for leaks tomorrow but if the weather is good, I hate to jinx myself but I might actually be able to drive it soon.
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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WellFedHobo
Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Dad came by to help me bleed the brakes. No leaks! That brass fitting must have been wrong somehow. I swapped to another one plus new lines and it's all good. Took the dollies out and put it up on jack stands instead, fired it up, put it into gear.... and it seems that in my haste with too much enthusiasm, I neglected to recall how important it might be to check the differentials. The rear differential roared at us. It's gotta be dry. And based on the sound, it might have been dry for awhile.
For a long time, it's been Schrödinger's differential. As long as I don't open the cover, it's fine, right? Well, it's time to open them up and make sure it's all good or bad. Forgive my millennial ignorance, but on the front axle, when you put the Jeep into 4 low, should the wheels spin? Or do you have to lock the hubs for the wheels to spin? Because I had it in 4 low while up on jack stands and the front wheels didn't spin. And I'm concerned that project Sunk Cost Fallacy might not actually have a front differential, you know? Might have had the "glitter" conversion back in the 90s before it was parked. That would be par for the course.
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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Nothing Special
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2018 Location: Roseville, MN Status: Offline Points: 843 |
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Yes you need to lock the hubs to get the front wheels to spin. Shifting the transfer case into 4WD (either low or high) connects the front driveshaft to the trans so the engine can spin the driveshaft. But the front hubs connect the front wheels to the front axle. Both ends need to be connected for it to drive.
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WellFedHobo
Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Thanks for that. Makes more sense now.
As it turns out, the rear differential was full of fresh (1990s?) oil that didn't have a ton of water in it. There's evidence of a past catastrophic failure, very similar to the transfer case oil pan. There was always a booger weld on the front of the differential cover that seemed to indicate a patch, so that's at least confirmed. There's a ton of slop in the gears but the ring gear and pinion seem fine. The oil wasn't burned or anything. The bearings even spin fine. ^Right click this one and open it in a new tab to get the full resolution. Looks a bit gnarly in the middle. But it seems that the cause of all the horrific noise was actually the emergency brake. The ebrake is not engaged, basically everything but the backing plate is new, but the new Edited by WellFedHobo - 13 Nov. 2022 at 2:48pm |
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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