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WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011)

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otto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2020 at 2:33am
When you had the carb apart, did you remove the low speed jet and ensure that it is clear? That’s generally the first thing I check when something won’t idle or runs poorly at low throttle opening. You shouldn’t have to remove the carb to remove the jet. 
47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A
64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon
Forgive me if I don't return the "jeep wave", I need both hands on the wheel!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2020 at 2:37am
Originally posted by otto otto wrote:

When you had the carb apart, did you remove the low speed jet and ensure that it is clear? That’s generally the first thing I check when something won’t idle or runs poorly at low throttle opening. You shouldn’t have to remove the carb to remove the jet. 

I replaced everything that I could that came with the master rebuild kit. The low speed jet and surrounding passages should be clear and perfect.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Richard J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2020 at 4:57am
sounds like you have a carb vacume leak go to scoutpilots sight old jeep carbs on the net
Richard
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepdidwhat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2020 at 2:43pm
Originally posted by WellFedHobo WellFedHobo wrote:

When you are taking the rear drive shaft off to do work on the emergency brake, you should remember to drain the transfer case first. If you don't... the transfer case will drain itself for you. LOL


Do you know if there is there a way to remove the rear drive shaft without draining the transfer case?  I just filled mine up. Shocked

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2020 at 3:48pm
Originally posted by jeepdidwhat jeepdidwhat wrote:


Do you know if there is there a way to remove the rear drive shaft without draining the transfer case?  I just filled mine up. Shocked


You can remove the drive shaft itself. But if you try to remove the emergency brake drum and the... yoke? it bolts to, that the drive shaft itself bolts to through the drum... That's what drains it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2020 at 1:58am
It helps if, when rebuilding the carburetor, you don't swap the pump jet and the discharge check assembly... 

It now runs without the choke. Needs a great deal of tuning as it's still not quite right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2020 at 12:33am
We threw in the towel and are getting one of those modern replica Carter WO carbs. The original one just has too much wear and tear. Even after a rebuild (or three) and making sure all parts from the master rebuild kit were in the right place, the Jeep just won't run right. There's too much slop and too much play in all linkages. I think the casting either needs replacement or needs bushings put in to correct the worn out parts. We're going to keep it and eventually do something with it. But for now, picking up something that's solid and clean with no questionable parts is the way we're gonna go. (Might as well spend my quarterly bonus on something shiny.)

With full choke and setting the carb manually as slop allows, the engine can run nicely. Good compression, seems healthy aside from being filthy and needing an oil change. The transmission seems to move freely but the transfer case is full of orange mess. I'm concerned about it needing a complete rebuild which is something pretty far outside of my experience. It doesn't look that complex but it's something I've never done before and likely don't have the proper tools. I can certainly throw money at parts but I need it to be done right and dependable in the end. 

I still need to do the brakes, which is another thing I've seen done many times but have never actually done before. I have all the master cylinder, all wheel cylinders, parts to facilitate the bench bleeding portion of the project, but I don't have hard lines. I've never made my own brake lines but I'm toying with the idea of getting a double flare tool and some stainless lines and fittings. 

The emergency brake replacement hasn't gone well so far. I think the new pads are too thick and are causing the drum to just be stuck no matter how far the adjustment screws are backed out. Gotta solve that one soon... 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WKWillys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2020 at 12:54am
Scoutpilot did a magnificent job rebuilding two carbs and a fuel/vacuum pump for me. Very reasonably priced, and test runs them on his jeep and sends you a video. In my opinion, better than buying a repop carb (been there too.)
Good luck
John
'48 CJ2a "Snakeskin"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2020 at 1:26am
Originally posted by WellFedHobo WellFedHobo wrote:

.... but I don't have hard lines. I've never made my own brake lines but I'm toying with the idea of getting a double flare tool and some stainless lines and fittings....

I've never flared stainless, but I've heard it's harder to work with (flare and bend).  I've used steel lines which goes pretty well.  But I'd recommend the copper-nickel lines.  Easy to work with and don't rust.
Bob

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct. 2020 at 5:07pm
I'm really confused right now. Even with the worn out carb, the Jeep would start and run. Now it won't start at all. 

The garage reeks of gas but there's no leak that I can discern. The gas cap is tight (but the DIY rubber gasket is questionable?), the fuel sending unit is tight, the gas tank fitting is tight, the line is solid, all fuel line connections are solid and not leaking. Yet when I tried to start it, it was like there was no gas. So I had to add another half gallon to the tank and now there's gas in the fuel pump being pushed up to the carb. So where is the gas disappearing to? (And it still won't start, though it has spark.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct. 2020 at 1:59am
As it turns out... I think I should buy a lottery ticket. 

The fuel line was NOT tightened up to the fitting on the tank as much as I thought it was. It was seeping gas down to the 90 degree bend on the line and dripping onto the cardboard below. Slowly. It didn't become noticeable until I poured a lot more gas into the tank.



While I was running the Jeep using the new carburetor, the engine was running better than it has been so far so I ran it longer.  This heated up a bunch of the rodent junk that was left on the exhaust manifold. There was a small fire and embers were blown backwards and under the jeep from the radiator fan... 

Right onto that very piece of gasoline soaked cardboard. (You can see a burn mark in the picture above.)

I did stop the engine testing when I saw the fire and embers blowing around but that could have gone bad pretty fast.

All that aside, these Joe's Motor Pool reproduction Carter WO carbs are pretty dang near perfect. They look great and run great. (My experience is VERY limited here but this has been the best so far.)



And it looks GREAT compared to the rest of the engine bay.



So here's to not burning the garage down. Beer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct. 2020 at 6:59am
 I’ll drink to that! 🍺
BW 
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct. 2020 at 7:54pm
Guess whose alternator seems to be going out just as the Jeep started to run better?

<---- This guy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2020 at 1:30am
I've had a roller coaster of a week. I thought I had the alternator issue sorted out but it's not. Might take it to a local shop to see if it can be rebuilt since I have no idea what a new drop in replacement would be. There's no model number on the alternator, just Delco-Remy stamped on it. 

We swapped out the thermostat today because we didn't know the vintage of the current one. It looked like a pretty good 180 degree thermostat but we swapped in a 160 degree one. For its age, the thermostat housing is in amazing condition. During the process the >30 year old heater bypass hose broke and blasted coolant everywhere. Coolant filled the spark plug holes. While it was starting we found bubbles coming out of those holes, indicating that the spark plugs had come loose somehow. Tightened those up to German spec, hopefully they'll stay put this time. But after all that, the Jeep just would. not. start. The battery drained again and even after trying to jump it, it wouldn't start. The gas tank wasn't full so I added more gas and it still wouldn't start. Tried cleaning up all the coolant from all over the place, still nothing. After probably 20 minutes of poking stuff, trying to make it start, failing, trying again, etc. it DID finally start but it ran somewhat poorly. The idle eventually evened out and it ran fine, but after letting it run for 5 minutes and turning it off, it wouldn't start again. Battery didn't have enough juice. But even after all that, the temp gauge was at 180 and the thermostat hadn't opened as best I can tell. Looks like there's a lot of air in the system that I need to get out. 

I did at least replace the connector for the positive terminal of the battery, just gotta do the negative and then clean all other contacts. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2020 at 4:03pm
Do you have an alternator or a generator? If an alternator, check out Summit Racing. I bought a new Delco alternator for less than $40. 
Dean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2020 at 5:37pm
Alternator. I'm not even sure what to search on Summit, but I've also got to get something that is compatible with the existing mounting setup. Otherwise I might as well totally redo all of the mounting and the alternator etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2020 at 5:43pm
Carry that alternator down to your local FLAPS (Autozone, Oreilys etc.) and start opening up boxes. 
Is it a single wire?  If there is an old guy at the FLAPS then ask him about the gm single wire alternators. He might know it right off. Young guys won't know. 

You might have to change the pully from what you have to the new one. 

Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2020 at 7:00pm
I believe it's a "3 wire" as it has one bigger wire and two wires in a plug on the side.

And no joke, the kids these days at the parts store depend on the computer to tell them what to do. No one there has actual knowledge anymore.
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