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WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011)

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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2020 at 7:27pm
Originally posted by WellFedHobo WellFedHobo wrote:

And no joke, the kids these days at the parts store depend on the computer to tell them what to do. No one there has actual knowledge anymore.

And sadder still, most of them are not very tolerant of you wanting to share the knowledge you have in order to help them find what you want. Cry  BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2020 at 1:06am
Take a look at this one. It is what I have on mine and has the same three wire set up as you describe. Have them test if first. When I first got my 2A, I had charging issues. I replaced the alternator only to find out that the PO wired it incorrectly. 

1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2020 at 5:08pm
On that alternator I'd start with pulling it off and getting it checked out.
If it is OK then your problem is elsewhere.
If it is dead then try to compare it to a later one wire design.
They are simpler to deal with and more common if you ever need one in a pinch.
You will need to swap the pulley if it is running the wide one.
I think the mount bracket will still be the same.
With a bit of home research (sometimes Google really is your friend) you may be able to find enough information to be able to tell the part guy what he needs to get off the shelf for you.
Yep, they are amazed if you can tell them the P/N.
Even so, open the box and look.  Not only are most of the counter guys idiots, the folks that stuff parts into boxes care even less. I have seen more than one thing miss boxed.
The Delcos you want are 10Si or 12Si. The 12s put out a bit more, but are slightly bigger.
How big you need depends on how you will use it.
Do you expect to start often in cold weather?
Do you expect to do a lot of heavy winching?
If not anything more then the original 30 amp generator is enough.
1946 CJ2A 14098
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov. 2020 at 1:26am
This thing is turning into a wiring nightmare. I ramble about this a lot more on my YouTube channel for this build, but the gist of it is that the wiring is mostly correct, slightly rodent chewed, and there's a vampiric draw somewhere, probably something under the dash that's grounding out. But where it sits right now, it won't even turn over anymore. I have ideas for later that involves a bit more patchwork.

Brakes are fun too. I should have expected that the pad would fall right off the shoe.



Also got the new exhaust manifold in. Nice to have one with a functioning heat riser and no hole in it. Looks great but we'll see how it functions in time.




Also started replacing some of the bigger cables. The starter ground was just toast. The battery ground wasn't long enough and was also a bit rough around the edges, especially after the starter solenoid got stuck and the ground wire got a little toasty.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov. 2020 at 6:50pm
Got the all important title in the mail today. Unfortunately they put the model in as "CJ28"... But at least I have a title that's not 1970s vintage. 

My new steering wheel was trashed in shipping :/ 

But I have new brake shoes and a sector shaft kit for the steering box. So there's that. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov. 2020 at 2:35am
Looking forward to getting this steering wheel installed. Tired of getting black funkyness all over my hands when I touch the wheel. It won't come off with persuasion from a couple of dead blow hammers. I may actually have to get a steering wheel puller... 


The alternator works! We replaced a few wires here and there and got the reliability up a little bit. I can finally start the Jeep without having to charge the battery off the Honda or jump it. I call that a win. 

It's a little comical that you can see exactly where we've been under the hood.



I'm spending a little too much time basically just blogging about the process on my YouTube channel. It's an interesting change of pace, I guess. But you get updates more often there.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Nov. 2020 at 11:14pm
It's getting colder and colder, though yesterday was a nice warm day. Warm enough for there to be wasps out again for some reason. Killed another nest of red ones and went to work on the rear brakes. My parts pile is actually in enough boxes that it fills up the Bantam trailer. I need to get more of them out of the boxes and on the Jeep! 

Got the rear cylinders swapped out and got the pads replaced on both sides. The hubs came right off, almost didn't need the hub puller but used it anyways. Made a common mistake: I made it look like how the last guy did, assuming it was correct. And the last guy apparently had it wrong. He had the small brake shoe facing forward and the big shoe facing reverse. So if it had problems stopping, that might be why. Unless he was driving backwards a lot. Can't wait to get into the front brakes and see if they made the same mistake. 

Not sure why but there was almost no brake fluid leakage on the drivers side but the passenger side was practically pressurized and let out quite a bit of brake fluid. I'll deal with whatever caused that when we go to bleed the brakes later.

I need to find a local place that will resurface the drums. I hear a rumor that O'Reilys does them...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2020 at 4:20pm
That rumor is true...
at least locally.
1946 CJ2A 14098
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2020 at 4:37pm
Seems like "bubba" worked on some brakes. All 5 on the passenger rear are like this.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2020 at 7:10pm
Originally posted by Bill2A Bill2A wrote:

That rumor is true...
at least locally.

My local one won't touch my brakes because they can't find them in their computer... So I need to continue searching since they lack the specs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Dec. 2020 at 8:13pm
I still need to get the parking brake working again. The problem I'm having is that when I put the drum on over the pads, even when they are adjusted down all the way, below the 7 "nubs" turned per side as the manual says, the drum is stuck solid, can't move it. And I have no idea why. (Could barely pull it off again afterwards.)

If you followed the project up to now, you know the anchor was missing from the backing plate so I had to get another one welded on. It was a little different of a style but should be fine? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec. 2020 at 10:32pm
Turns out I haven't fixed the wiring enough and the battery drained itself again. Tried to start it up today after about a month and only got sounds of disappointment. 

A guy on ebay was selling a set of used New Life Canvas seat cushions, tan in color, so I picked those up and now I need to find a rear sear. Priorities, right? The Jeep still hasn't driven out of the garage but I'm getting seat cushions and seat pans worked out. 

I knew my windshield wasn't correct for a '48 and I read up on the differences awhile ago but promptly misremembered most of it. But a guy told me that the windshield looks to specifically be from a VEC CJ2A due to the military style inner windshield, the square washers on the bolts on either side of the Willys stamp, and the slider style inner windshield supports instead of the lollipops its supposed to have. So that's a neat footnote to remember for later. Perhaps someday I may try to find the correct windshield for it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 19Cargo42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec. 2020 at 11:17pm
Check the threads, but I recall someone with a VEC was seeking the correct windshield.

I saw those cushions as well. Are you pleased with them?

John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec. 2020 at 11:26pm
Originally posted by 19Cargo42 19Cargo42 wrote:

I saw those cushions as well. Are you pleased with them?

They're okay. They have a few odd stains on them that I don't think I can remove (kind of like tar or some kind of resin?) and some discoloration (the material is tan but the outside edges are brown-ish), though the foam is solid enough. They were definitely used and spent some time outside. But they are a great improvement from the ones that I had, which sat outside and rotted for 20+ years. I'm making some "best guess" seat pans for them today. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec. 2020 at 3:47am
I'm trying to pull the steering wheel with all the wrong tools and it's downright comical. I only have a two jaw puller that's not wide enough. I've been trying to use all sorts of awkward methods to get leverage: a Honda throttle cable bracket, two square shank extra long flat head screwdrivers, a cold chisel, a spare lawnmower blade, a couple of reversed trigger clamps, two old brake shoes hinged together with some washers and a random old bolt. I'll eventually come up with a compilation of fail on YouTube. 

I think I saw one of Metalshaper's videos and he had a good method. If I simply had a chunk of coil spring, roughly C shaped, I could actually get some leverage on it and pop the old wheel right off. Soaking in PB Blaster has had no effect that I can tell.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom in RI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec. 2020 at 1:34pm
https://www.farmjeep.com/how-do-you-remove-a-steering-wheel/

The right puller really works. Hammars and hub pullers will destroy the wheel but still not remove it.  If you can get your existing wheel off in reasonable shape it may be restorable. The black mung comes off with solvent and wet sanding. Epoxy can fill cracks and a coat of paint will give it bling. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Dec. 2020 at 5:49pm
Sometimes PB takes awhile to reach the part that is the holdup. 
When and if it gets where it is needed, it works wonders.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2021 at 6:20pm
I did finally get the master cylinder out. That was a pain and a half with the exhaust pipe physically touching the pivot point for the pedals. Not sure how bad of a thing that is or not, but the new one will be in similarly close proximity. 

The old one is full of rust and is likely not rebuildable. I may give it a look to be sure, but it's likely toast. Hence, the new one. I may try to get out there and replace the soft lines. The hard lines seem ok enough for now but I will likely end up replacing them before too long. Still not sure if I want to go through the effort of bending and flaring my own lines just yet...


I'm not sure the new one is tapped right on the front hole. Doesn't look quite right with the old eyeball test. We'll find out when I go to install it.
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