WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011)

Finally figured out the source of the idle issue. Turning the screw did nothing because the throttle linkage was actually pushing the throttle a bit. I had to put a block of wood under the pedal to get it to sit back to where it needed to be. Once I did that, the idle screw worked as expected. But now I'm not sure what to do to adjust the idle correctly. It has a new return spring on the throttle. Not sure what else I can do to adjust it down. I seem to recall that there's supposed to be a spring under the accelerator pedal but I don't know that replacing or repairing it would solve the issue.

Finally replaced the last hard line yesterday. The brake system is now 100% brand new, from master cylinder to wheel cylinders. Very glad I replaced it since it too was full of muddy brake fluid with hints of rust. Next step is to bench bleed the master cylinder and install it, then do a full bleed of the system. Then on to the "major" adjustment since drums and shoes are also new.

Probably the e-brake shoe adjustment is out of whack, rather than the cable.  The cable pulls a long way because the lever arm connected to the e-brake shoes pulls a long way.

OK, next step is to check the swing of the arm at the clevis, where the e-brake assembly attaches to the cable assembly.  It should move by hand.  Is the end of the arm moving a long way?  Or just an inch or less?  If that arm moves a long way even though the pads are fairly tight, then there is some play in the arm assembly that doesn’t belong there.  If there is a big swing in that arm, it is likely going to collide with the transfer case bottom cover at the elbow of the arm before the slack in the e-brake is taken up.  The other things to check are the clamp on the trans crossmember holding the cable, the firewall bracket, and how the ball or the pin at the handle end of the cable sits in the end of the handle ratchet assembly.  Either there is play in the cable mountings or in the arm assembly.  One of the two must be true, unless the pads themselves are not properly seated in the mount, and are moving around in there despite being statically almost tight.  There are only so many possibilities here, which is why it is worth tackling and getting it done.

I'm struggling to find inspiration to keep going on this project. It's frustrating. I'm down to the transmission and transfer case, the weather is getting really good for driving, but I still don't have the Jeep in a drivable state and I don't really have the mental energy lately to push things across the finish line 

I got myself a birthday present in the form of new shocks for the Jeep. What's on there seems shot and the Jeep doesn't sit level even when parked on a level surface. Could be the leaf springs too, but I won't know for sure until I actually get to drive it. The weather is getting cooler and perfect and I'm still trying to find the energy to tackle the transmission and transfer case. They could be fine, they could be rusty. I haven't even had the energy to go look. But I think the transfer case is going to be rusty inside.

Figured that might be the case. Either way, at least two of the four are toast as it sits, might as well get to replacing those as well. I don't want to replace the leaf springs yet but I'll get to it.

I got into the transmission for just a little bit before closing it back up. Under the cover, generations of dirt daubers had made homes. (Right click the images and open in new tab for full size versions.)

Edited by WellFedHobo - 10 Oct. 2021 at 5:04pm

I don't recall the comment but I did pick one of those drip rails up since they were on sale. Had to paint it to stop the surface rust from sitting on the shelf. That looks like a helpful way to install it solo. I probably have a couple of bolts I could sacrifice for locating pins.