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WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011)

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WellFedHobo View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010
Location: Little Rock, AR
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2021 at 8:38pm
Finally figured out the source of the idle issue. Turning the screw did nothing because the throttle linkage was actually pushing the throttle a bit. I had to put a block of wood under the pedal to get it to sit back to where it needed to be. Once I did that, the idle screw worked as expected. But now I'm not sure what to do to adjust the idle correctly. It has a new return spring on the throttle. Not sure what else I can do to adjust it down. I seem to recall that there's supposed to be a spring under the accelerator pedal but I don't know that replacing or repairing it would solve the issue.

Additionally, after letting it run for 15 minutes with its new wiring harness just to charge the battery back up, I was left with a few small puddles of oil. Looks like the rear main seal is toast. Not unexpected given how long it sat and how old it is.

I replaced the shift boot out of boredom and the next step is to pull the transmission cover and finally evaluate the condition of the transmission.

I also hope to replace the tail light wiring, tail lights (what's there is not worth rigging to make them work), and finally install the master cylinder. I picked up a couple of earlier style parking lights to mount to the fenders as turn signals. 
1948 CJ2A #158011
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 July 2021 at 8:17pm
After a lot of wiring struggles, I finally got the tail lights and turn signals working. Not sure how I feel about the placement of the turn signals on the bumper. There were two holes already there and I didn't want to drill holes in the fenders if I didn't have to, and they'll work, but I don't know that they look right, you know? 

I also added a horn from Kaiser Willys, the small pancake style that's supposed to be the closest thing to an original that's produced today. The pitch is way too high, though. Not sure how much I like it.

Also replaced another brake line that I had opted to leave alone. It was a bad choice to leave it, given how full of mud it was. I guess this means I'll do the final hard line on the front passenger side. At this point, the rest of the brake lines are replaced. Guess I should make it 100%. 

I'm still sharing the progress in a blog style of video on YouTube, a week or so at a time. Can't believe I'm up to 42 of these videos but these do take awhile to figure out when you have no idea what you're doing. 


1948 CJ2A #158011
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 3:56pm
Finally replaced the last hard line yesterday. The brake system is now 100% brand new, from master cylinder to wheel cylinders. Very glad I replaced it since it too was full of muddy brake fluid with hints of rust. Next step is to bench bleed the master cylinder and install it, then do a full bleed of the system. Then on to the "major" adjustment since drums and shoes are also new.

I've replaced basically every single wire in the Jeep except for the big line from the starter relay to the starter itself. It wasn't in bad shape. Yet for some reason, the battery still loses its charge if the Jeep isn't started for a few days. I have a couple of 10 gauge wires that aren't in terrible shape to replace between the alternator and ammeter. That's my last idea, unless this brand new battery from September/October? is somehow bad. 

I've picked up some GL1 gear oil from my local Tractor Supply for the transmission and transfer case. Really starting to wish I had a group of vintage Jeepers in Little Rock to compare shift actions. The transmission feels like it shifts into R-1-2-3 ok. Reverse feels a little... weaker? than 1, and 3 also feels a bit weaker. Like it doesn't move far enough. (Or maybe it's shifting into a chunk of rust.) Shifting into 1 and 2 has a good solid "thunk" to it. Given that I have no basis for comparison, I don't know what I should expect. I'm also worried about the transfer case. I know it was full of rust already, but I'm also worried about the 2wd/4wd shifter. The high/low shifter gives a good solid "click" when shifting it. But the 2wd/4wd lever doesn't seem to do much of anything. It moves but doesn't click up or down. Something else to look into when I get to that next stage.

I've still gotta figure out the ebrake cable adjustment as well. It should be pretty straightforward, putting the clamp on the firewall and the trans crossmember and putting the cable onto it where the metal gets a bit wider to hold it in place. But I still have to pull the lever almost all the way out before it even begins to engage. The threaded part of the cable is all the way into the clevis as well. It's almost like the cable is just a little bit too long? Not sure.

Overall, the thing is nearly ready for its first test drive. I need to drain/flush/refill the transmission and transfer case, change the oil/oil filter/oil lines, do the basic "tune up" maintenance items like points, condenser, cap, rotor, then go drive it. 
1948 CJ2A #158011
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 5:59pm
While installing the new master cylinder, I managed to break one of the terminals off the brake light switch. 

$#%& -- (Actual translation since I spent a whole minute inventing a new language consisting of only four letter words.)
1948 CJ2A #158011
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dutch 1960 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 6:04pm
Probably the e-brake shoe adjustment is out of whack, rather than the cable.  The cable pulls a long way because the lever arm connected to the e-brake shoes pulls a long way.

The shoes adjust just like drum brakes on the wheels. Line up the holes in the e-brake drum with the star wheels, adjust the shoes until they start to lock up a bit with the e-brake off, then back them off a bit to loosen things back up.  You should be good to go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 6:17pm
Originally posted by Dutch 1960 Dutch 1960 wrote:

Probably the e-brake shoe adjustment is out of whack, rather than the cable.  The cable pulls a long way because the lever arm connected to the e-brake shoes pulls a long way.

The shoes adjust just like drum brakes on the wheels. Line up the holes in the e-brake drum with the star wheels, adjust the shoes until they start to lock up a bit with the e-brake off, then back them off a bit to loosen things back up.  You should be good to go.

The shoes are adjusted as well as I know how to. The shoes are brand new so there's very little room in there to work with. I had to adjust the wheels nearly all the way down just so they would fit in there. Any more adjustment and they'll drag constantly.
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1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dutch 1960 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 10:29pm
OK, next step is to check the swing of the arm at the clevis, where the e-brake assembly attaches to the cable assembly.  It should move by hand.  Is the end of the arm moving a long way?  Or just an inch or less?  If that arm moves a long way even though the pads are fairly tight, then there is some play in the arm assembly that doesn’t belong there.  If there is a big swing in that arm, it is likely going to collide with the transfer case bottom cover at the elbow of the arm before the slack in the e-brake is taken up.  The other things to check are the clamp on the trans crossmember holding the cable, the firewall bracket, and how the ball or the pin at the handle end of the cable sits in the end of the handle ratchet assembly.  Either there is play in the cable mountings or in the arm assembly.  One of the two must be true, unless the pads themselves are not properly seated in the mount, and are moving around in there despite being statically almost tight.  There are only so many possibilities here, which is why it is worth tackling and getting it done.
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