what motor oil are u using in you willys?

im currently using delo SAE 30 oil to just help out with the rings that so desperately needing to be replaced.  And for the thickness of the oil that keeps the compression up hence.


Should i be using a 20w50 or 15w40?


thanks.





(i am soon going to actually get this jeep over here closer to me so i can work on it but money has been tight lately for me as with us all... i do believe.)

im useing quakerstate 10w30

Rob H. wrote: Here ya go straight from the owners manual http://thecj2apage.com/om5.html

sorry to say but... duh! 


i meant what all of you are running in your project/toy as the standard oil that "is suppose to" be run is not all ways the case....


but thanks to you other 2 ....  i might run some 20w50 or 15w40 then when i get it over here. 

But first i am going to use either kroil or ATF to clean the joker out...  as i can actually fix it over here better than over where it sits all lonesome in a old tin barn... 

thanks again....

just remeber often on older engines all the crap inside actually is preventing leaks and "cleaning" it out with atf or whatever can cause leaks.......

hillbilly21 wrote: Flush it out with kerosene  first..dont let it run for more than 15-25 seconds at idle...drain it out..put in some cheap oil if you can find some..usually comes from  dollar general , dollar stores.....run it a little bit  let it warm up at idle   dump the oil and filter again and put in new good stuff ..you will be amazed on the oil pressure...and also what came loose inside that will need fixing ...valves etc...I did that to a cj5 I got here and it quit smoking  ...go figure !!

exactly how much kerosene would i add?  

straight kerosene? into the oil fill....?

as i dont want to mess this up... in exactly how to mark how much kero goes in. A gallon nad half then? or more or less?

I am going to ride this thing no matter what gas price is for a gallon for a few months when i get it over here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   i mean i will pay 6bucks a gallon if it reaches that mark here in MS.  haha

I love having this jeep. As its a REAL jeep! with round headlights...

thanks fellas and thanks hillbilly!

i wasnt born  yesterday ... I was taliing about what oil brand fellas....


and what weight... ! and such...




i KNOW the chart says that... But rules and set stuff is meant to be broken just like the kind of weight oil in your 60 year old jeep you can run to make IT run better...


a few of you helped me out by giving your input... then two of you show me the chart. THROW the chart out the window!  haha  i say ....


as atf and kerosene and little tricks of the trade are great to hear!!!!!

: )

I guess I can't let this thread go without saying that the oils produces today are not the same as "back in the day" they used a different type of oil. It had alot of "sulfates and things the the flat head cam and lifters needed. The best oil is in the "desiel" oils today. I use Rotella  (SP) 15-50 .   There was a big talk on the G503 about this, it really should be looked at, I don't have the time tonight but if noone comes up with it maybe tommorro I can find it. The fuels we use today and the oils we use are not the same as "back in the day" Detergent oils were not part of the oil system, and that created sludge. The oil system was not designed for todays oils.

See the prior discussion:

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=6975

Not to be flippant, but your question has no "correct" answer.  It all depends on where you live & how you use your car.  What weight oil do you use in your "other" vehicles? Use the same.

eg, if I lived in Key West, I'd run 30w all year long.  But I don't, I live in N. Idaho, where temps go from -40 in winter to +110 in summer, so I use 5w-40 all year long.

I would recommend you use an oil that still contains ZDDP, since it is beneficial to older engines.  The new spec " green, ecologically friendly" car oils don't have it any more.  Many of the "truck" oils still do have it.

As for the post w/ the chart from the manual, notice he hi-lighted the last sentence, to answer your question re: kerosene.

Sean

"Hypoid" oil has extreme pressure ("EP") additives ("Hypoid" & "EP" marked oils are synonymous).  It needs to be used w/hypoid gears (differential ring & pinion), because they generate far higher friction pressures than non-hypoid gears.

Transmission & transfer case have no hypoid gears, so don't need hypoid oil.