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Wheel Hub, what do I have
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Alpine View Drop Down
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Points: 530 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2022 at 2:43pm
When I turn the spline adapter the axle turns and the wheel hub does not move. Here is a pic of the locking hub. I think I will start with breaking off the plastic piece and then seeing if there is a way to get behind it and pull off the adapter. I dont have a cutter and drilling will be slow process. I will keep this updated.  
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General Eisenhower View Drop Down
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Points: 1700 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote General Eisenhower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2022 at 3:31pm
Those are the same hubs I recently changed off my jeep. From memory I belive everything just slid off, if you are replacing the hubs with a different type or with drive flanges it doesn't matter, however I would restrain from breaking the plastic, it's part of the hub assembly for a reason.

I went back into my thread and the removal wasn't strenuously detailed so I must have not gotten stuck like this.
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Doubtful you will get a puller hooked in behind that splined hub.

What I think was being suggested about using a puller is to pull the entire hub off which would push that hammer mangled part of the locking hub ahead of it.

Were I doing it I would use the same puller I use to remove rear hubs which is a three legged heavy duty puller that bolts to the wheel studs. The advantage of a puller like this is you can hit the dogbone with a hammer and jar things loose. If you are going to work on these old Jeeps you will eventually need one of these anyway to service rear brakes, bearings, and seals.

Mine looks similar to the one below.
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Points: 530 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov. 2022 at 6:34pm
But aren't there pieces behind the plastic part like potentially a snap ring that have to be removed before I use a hub puller?
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Won't hurt anything to pry off that plastic piece so you can take a look, but I doubt there will be a snap ring under it, and besides there is no way a snap ring on that hub part would interface with the axle. IF there was a snap ring it would be in front of that piece you called a spline adaptor, and those old axles don't have a groove for a snap ring.

Those hubs are junk anyway, so don't worry about hurting them. Likewise on those sawed off axles. 




Edited by Oldpappy - 07 Nov. 2022 at 6:54pm
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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  Hey guys….
Dont forget there are two nuts and two washers inside that hub that hold the wheel bearings in place, and of course, the hub. You’re not going to pull that hub off with the bearings in place. 
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Problem solved. I went ahead and broke the plastic piece, which is attached to the spline btw, since I will put new locking hubs on. I was then able to slowly pry it out to a point and then was able to work it off by hammering around the edges. The axle splines appear to be ok and the hole for the cotter pin appears to still be there. Not sure what the x on the end was. It was much tighter than I could ever pull but was much easier once I got the plastic out of the way. Thanks everyone. 
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Originally posted by Oldpappy Oldpappy wrote:

That is an early axle which used a nut on the threaded end to set preload for the axle bushing. 

The "big +" is what remains of the holes that would have been for a cotter pin.

Bubba has sawed off the ends of the axles to make those hubs fit, something I have often seen and has also been suggested by suppliers selling hubs that won't fit without doing it. 

It was never a good idea, and depending on which axle joint is used can result in a failure of the joint. I would consider an axle like that as ruined, and would replace the axle shaft with a more modern version using the Spicer joint replacing the bushing in the spindle to match.


Yes. One can clearly see from the second photo that the axle has been sawn off.

There is a hole for a cotter pin, alright, but Bubba made that, also. Geez. I wonder if it will now fit any other kind of locking hub than the one the axle was cut to fit?


Edited by CJ2A60 - 07 Nov. 2022 at 8:38pm
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What does it hurt to cut those end threads off if they are in the way and you are not using them?  My CJ3A came to me with one side cut off. I don’t know why because the threads didn’t interfere with the hub lockouts that were on it (the other side was uncut). 
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My next question is the same as Jeff's.   Will I need to replace the axle shaft since it's been cut?  
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The threaded end, shims, & the nut set the end play for the axle shaft itself. I do not recall the work around to address cut off threads. Sorry.
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Originally posted by Jeff J Jeff J wrote:

My CJ3A came to me with one side cut off. I don’t know why because the threads didn’t interfere with the hub lockouts that were on it (the other side was uncut). 


Some PO probably used a different hub that is gone, now, and had to cut the axle to accommodate that hub. Whether the axle was installed on your car at that time is anybody's guess.


Edited by CJ2A60 - 08 Nov. 2022 at 10:56am
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Originally posted by cpt logger cpt logger wrote:

The threaded end, shims, & the nut set the end play for the axle shaft itself. I do not recall the work around to address cut off threads. Sorry.

Are there any lockout hubs that use any of that? It seems like it would only apply to the original locked hubs. 
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Several manufactures once made hubs that would fit the old axles, then as that market began to shrink those all disappeared, and the more modern hubs were not deep enough for the old axles with the threaded ends. 

The outfits that were selling hubs wanted to sell as many as they could and since they no longer could get hubs that would fit they began suggesting cutting off the end of the axles. 

There is no work around for it. With the end cut off there is no way to properly set end play for the axle, and the joint gets hammered and will eventually fail in a sometimes dramatic explosion inside the knuckle that can lock up that front wheel. 

As I already said, I would consider those axles ruined, and were that my Jeep I would replace them with later axles which have the Spicer joint along with appropriate spindle bushings. 

Others will probably tell you how they have ran theirs with sawed off axles for years, and that may be true, but I have seen the damage caused by a joint failure and it is not pretty.  
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It looks like I need to find out what I am missing to install the new axles. I was under the impression the new style is a drop in replacement. 




Edited by Jeff J - 08 Nov. 2022 at 12:21pm
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  It’s in your Service Manual. You do have a service manual, right?
BW 
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Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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All that is needed to install the later style Spicer axles is to replace the bronze bushing inside the spindle with the newer style bushing. Very simple to do.
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