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Which transfer case would be best

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Hank_ View Drop Down
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    Posted: 27 Oct. 2019 at 10:43pm
Collecting parts for my flat fender project and need some advice.   So far I have picked up a good running 225 odd fire, the correct bell housing and a Ford T18 transmission.  Now I need to pick my transfer case so I can build the trans and start putting parts together.  What transfer case should I pick for reliability.   I live in Michigan so I am not crawling over rocks.  For the most part it will be used for trail rides, sand dunes and hills in the winter.  Please let me know what you think.

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Hank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unclemoak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2019 at 11:41pm
The answer likely depends on what rear axle you plan to use. If you want to keep the stock offset rear, you’ll likely have to stick with a Dana 18 or you could take a Dana 20 case and stuff 18 guts in it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hank_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2019 at 11:49pm
I keep reading about big hole and little hole dana 18.  What is the difference? Also why could you not just use the dana 20 as is?

Thanks


Edited by Hank_ - 27 Oct. 2019 at 11:52pm
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unclemoak View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unclemoak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2019 at 1:05am
Originally posted by Hank_ Hank_ wrote:

I keep reading about big hole and little hole dana 18.  What is the difference? Also why could you not just use the dana 20 as is?

Thanks

You can’t use a Dana 20 as is because the differential on the rear axle is offset. The Dana 20 has a center output, so it would need used with an axle with a centered differential. 

Big hole vs a small hole on the Dana 18 denotes the size of the input hole where it bolts to the transmission and what style and size of bearing retainer is used. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2019 at 1:45am
If your not building a rock crawler a small hole model 18 will fit your needs perfect. A large hole 18 is needed to fit different gear sets to change the gear reduction in low range.... For what you want, the 1st gear in the BW T-18 will be sweeeet!.....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2019 at 2:16am
If wanting to modernize your rig and add strength, go D-20 with a centered D-44 flanged rear diff. Parts are a little easier to find to them too.
example: I just sold 3 wide mouth D-20's for $75.00 a piece and a D-44 centered flanged for $2220.00. The D-44 had 11" brakes. 
Just a thought.

Jim
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Hank_ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hank_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2019 at 2:16pm
Thanks for all the replys.  Looks like I will go with the small hole dana 18.  I found one that should work well for what I will be doing.  $2200.00 for the rear end is crazy money.  I remember selling an old winch/pto unit I picked up off and old jeep CJ.  I threw it up on ebay and was shocked that a bidding war over the part took it up over $1200.00.    I won't have that much in the entire build.  



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2019 at 3:26pm
D18 and D20 transfer cases are my two all time  favorites.
They are Very similar yet Very different.
Both readily accept optional ratio gear sets.
And both readily accept The Borg Warner T18 transmission via factory adapter plates.

Main D18 features are:

1) Drop down output which decreases the propeller shaft angles
2) Offset rear output which requires an offset carrier rear axle assembly.
(The 1970-1971 narrow track Jeep offset D44 rear axle is an exceptionally strong axle assembly.)
3) Most common to find with factory Jeep twin sticks (IN / OUT and HI / LOW)
4) Most common to find with 2.46 ratio 
5) Readily accepts PTO options and overdrive units
6) An upgraded D18 is generally considered as best for off road useage.


Main D20 advantages are:

1) Centered output which requires a centered carrier rear axle assembly.
(The 1972-1975 narrow track Jeep centered D44 rear axle is an exceptionally strong axle assembly.)
2) The only Jeep factory reduction ratio was 2.03 /1 
3) Only accepts the special (pan mounted) PTO 
4) Jeep only had D20's with single stick shifters but twin sticks and shift rail modifications can allow for front dig action.(Engages the  front,  the rear or both axles)
5) Designed and termed as the"Silent Type Transfer Case" ,  The  D20 can be a huge plus for on-road use.

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hotrod59 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2019 at 7:39pm
Im getting ready to install the same setup in my jeep. I have a 225, Ford T18 and a dana 20 case. I will be swapping dana 18 guts to the 20 case. I just need to get everything adapted up and put in. It will be a good combo.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Y2GREY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct. 2019 at 11:27pm
We run the 225, Jeep t18 and "super 18" (20 case with 18 configuration and 4.86:1 low range) the axles are geared to 4:27 so no OD is needed with 35s.
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