Winch line(s) and fairleads |
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bight
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 20 Aug. 2020 Location: mid coast maine Status: Offline Points: 1689 |
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Posted: 31 Dec. 2020 at 6:48pm |
I checked my roller fairlead for any reason it would be problematic to continue its use with synthetic rope such as burrs, breakage, binding, etc. and found none. Rollers reduce friction and if the roller fairlead is quality, not damaged, and will not allow the rope to fall into one of the corners, there is potentially no reasonable reason to not continue using the roller with synthetic rope. There are contrary opinions. If anyone has personal experience (not hearsay) as to why using rollers with synthetic rope is a proven problem, I would like to hear about it. I am a long time (30+ years) rope user (rigging, rescue, rope access) but my extensive rope experience is not with winching. With that said, here is some thoughts and info: Manufacturers often recommend against certain things solely to limit their liability. Fables get started and are passed down generations. I can discuss many fables regarding rope, including strength, knots, damage, etc. But what it comes down to is the actual use and the hands-on field experience by those that get out and try things. Rope is not damaged by running over a properly functioning, smooth roller. An argument can be made that it is superior to a hawse in that the curved surface is of greater circumference and the rolling characteristic reduces friction significantly depending upon the angle of contact. Now, more on cable vs. synthetic winch line. Strength of synthetic rope vs. cable: this is a non-issue. Both cable and synthetic rope have a minimum breaking strength (MBS) published by the manufacturer. If measurement/calculation methods are the same, a cable with a MBS of 10,000 lbf. (force) has the same strength as a synthetic rope with a MBS of 10,000 lbf. Much further discussion could be involved here as to how measurements/calculations are made, but I do not believe it is warranted for the overall intent of this information. To say that one type is stronger than another can only be factually made with some form of definable comparison. The statement that synthetic rope is stronger than steel cable is not always true (or vice versa). Winch capacity: the manufacturers stated maximum pulling capacity of the winch typically with 1 layer of winch line around spool. According to Warn: "Warn winches are rated to pull their maximum load when spooling the first layer of rope onto the winch drum. An 8000 lb. capacity winch will only pull 8000 lbs. when you are spooling the rope onto the first layer." Warn states an approximate loss of pulling capacity of 15% per layer of winch line. This is due to the increase in the diameter of the "drum" as winch line is sequentially wrapped around the drum changing the effective gear ratio. Durability: this is dependent upon the use environment, upkeep, etc. A lava bed environment is substantially different from a woods trail or swamp. How much contact with abrasive surfaces will the winch line have? Is the winch used for work/utility purposes such as dragging downed trees to a location to be cut into firewood? Is the winch line only used for positioning or recovering a vehicle? Is it used to position or recover another vehicle? The list is endless. From my perspective, I would lean on the steel cable having a bit better durability overall. I chose steel cable for my winch on the vehicle I use to drag logs through the woods and pull rocks around, etc. Broken strands: yes, a broken strand of wire rope is potentially hazardous when handling wire rope (think hand injury). A broken strand of synthetic rope poses no puncture hazard to human flesh. Wear suitable snug fitting leather gloves whether you are running wire or synthetic rope. Dirt: minimize putting any winch line in the dirt/mud. The nature of the environment often makes this difficult to achieve. Many rope manufacturers limit their liability by sticking with old ideas that are not necessarily true. There are old time fables that still exist that say dirt/grit on the interior of a rope/line/winch line will grind and cut the material from the inside out. With certain rope designs, this has been proven to not be fact. Nothing is sawing it from the interior out. It would require substantial, continuous cycling around an object with a significant amount of trapped dirt/grit accumulation to achieve concerning amount of damage. Another concern is fiber on fiber friction. There is no real way to completely prevent this. Keep your winch line clean, inspect it, take care of it, be clean. It is highly doubtful to get dirt/grit accumulation in modern, quality wire rope. Synthetic rope construction typically for winch line use is an open weave braid that can allow dirt/grit penetration to the interior of the rope. Clean the rope after use and follow the manufacturers recommendations for inspection. The reality is that if you are using the winch line a great deal, it will wear out. that happens. Splicing/field repair: synthetic rope wins here if you are competent at splicing. This should not be needed as you should: 1. inspect your winch line in its entirety, 2. know its capacity (strength), 3. know the approximate force you are generating, 4. check the attachment points (at winch and end/hook splice) 5. take care of your winch line. Staying on top of these things will prevent winch line failure. That is not to say that winch line failure cannot happen on a 4WD outing and you are dependent on its use to get yourself to safety. If you expect this, learn how to competently splice and use synthetic rope or, carry a backup winch line. Weight: synthetic rope is significantly lighter that steel cable per ft. when the same MBS is compared. Comparison based upon equivalent MBS: 100 ft. of 3/8 inch (0.375 in. or 9.5mm) steel wire rope is approx. 24 lbs. with a 12,000 lbf. MBS 100 ft. of 5/16 inch (0.312 in. or 8mm) synthetic rope (Amsteel Blue) is approx. 2.7 lbs. with a 12,000 lbf. MBS other figures: 100 ft. of 3/8 inch (0.375 in. or 9.5mm) synthetic rope (Amsteel Blue) is approx. 3.4 lbs. with a 17,500 lbf. MBS 100 ft. of 5/16 inch (0.312 in. or 8mm) steel wire rope is approx. 16 lbs. with a 8-9,000 lbf. MBS Stored energy and whipping of failed winch line: simply put, do something to protect from this regardless of the winch line in service. To state synthetic rope has no stored energy would defy physics. Once stretched tight, it will store energy in a similar way that steel cable will. Use some form of dampener or just get out of the line of fire. Commercial dampeners are fine, but a personal coat/jacket, prusik/accessory cord with a small weight attached wrapped around the winch line, etc. will reduce the dangerous whip that may occur with winch line failure. Synthetic rope floats and will not rust. Synthetic rope is susceptible to UV exposure degradation, steel wire rope is not. If you park your vehicle outdoors and have synthetic rope in your winch, use a winch cover. In closing, I encourage discussion and the input of those extensively using their winch. I want to learn from those with experience.
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CJ-2A 72586 tan (stock)
CJ-2A 197624 green (resto-mod) the wife abides (def: to bear patiently; TOLERATE) |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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VERY NICE. Thanks for the write up. I learned something. While I have a lot of experience towing things with chains and cable as well as a little with rope. I have squat for experience with a vehicle mounted winch. In my world another vehicle is always doing the pulling. As I plan on one day adding a winch to CHUG this info was helpful.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4185 |
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I typically use my winches for work applications and rarely for self recovery.
Lifting and skidding are my main uses, so I am definitely a fan of the old school, “steel rope”. On my 6000 - 8000 pound winches I only use the 3/8” galvanized aircraft cable. So the Koenig (good) Ramsey or Warn (much better) roller fairleads are appropriate. The standards I use are the 5/1 safe work load limits for lift rigging. So my lifting is limited to 2880 pounds or the weight of the Jeep. All my hardware is calibrated to similar tensile strengths. We don’t want any weak links here and no reason for overkill with any of the rigging. A synchronous system of rigging components are in vogue. My 3/8” galvanized aircraft cable is rated at 14,400 pounds tensile strength. 14,400 ~ 5wll = 2880 pounds previously noted. I currently use a typical heavy duty steel rope thimble but planning to upgrade to an open spelter socket because it delivers 100% of the wire ropes strength. The current cable eye or the spelter socket then connects direct to a CM or Crosby 3/8” alloy screw pin shackle or else my #39622 Warn hook. Other rigging includes: 1/4” chain at grade 80 which can be used for overhead lifting. Nylon slings rated at 16,000 Warn # 8555 snatch blocks rated at 16,000 And a 3/8” Westech cat choker for logs. |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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nofender
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 10 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 2035 |
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Good info!!
Few words on roller vs. hawse - If you are switching from wire to rope and want to use a roller, it should be a new roller. Any serious use with wire and a roller will damage the rollers. You'll have burrs and scrapes on the rollers that will damage a synthetic rope. I imagine a roller with syn line would be just fine in relatively straight pulls. But once you get into angled pulling, I think you are asking for trouble. Syn rope, under extreme tension can and will change profile and squeeze itself into any space it can. The small space between the roller and it's mounting bracket tab can be an issue. It will squeeze in there until either it bends the bracket, popping the c-clip and ejecting the roller. Or the line will break. Again - we are talking side pulls, off camber, etc. But when off road, that's typically your winching situation. Utility use, you have far more control and can position the winch and the load in any way you like. Not saying a roller can't or shouldn't be used. But there is potential for damage in certain situations. One thought - abrasion guards. These are handy. they save your line when you have to winch in weird situations and there is a potential your winch could contact a rock or tree or some other risk. I'm a big fan of synthetic line. I've been running it on the crawler since 07. The first line has lasted 13 years. I recently ponied up and with sales and coupons I upgraded to a Warn rope. Not cheap. But man its well made! Do your research and buy a good quality rope. It need not be expensive. But knowing your facts (like the above information presented) will go a long way! oh one last note - if you syn line gets wet, spool it out and let it dry. Moisture won't hurt the line. But moisture trapped around the winch drum will net you a nasty rusty mess. Ask me how I know. Trick I learned, as most winch drums are raw steel - remove the rope, dip your brush in POR-15, hold the brush to the drum and spin the empty winch to coat the drum. Works great and keeps you from rusting up your drum in damp conditions.
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46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
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Nothing Special
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2018 Location: Roseville, MN Status: Offline Points: 845 |
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I agree with all of that. But synthetic line is inherently a lot safer because of it's lower weight. When it breaks it will release the stored energy and come VERY fast at whatever is in its way. But with less mass flying it will stop easier, so it won't go as far through whatever it hits. Now if the steel hook on the end of the synthetic line is flying at you it will go a long way through before it stops. But simply the rope itself won't be carrying as much energy. As to any issues using a roller fairlead with synthetic rope, I've never really understood that. The way the side rollers overlap with the horizontal rollers I don't see how the rope can get into the sides of the rollers. Yes there is a "sharp" corner where the rollers meet. But they don't really meet, so there's really no sharp corner. Still, other than burrs or nicks on the rollers (which would seem to be an issue if a hawse fairlead had them as well), the corners are the only place I can imagine synthetic rope having a problem. I just can't imagine what that problem might be. And by the way, saying "rope" does not distinguish between synthetic rope and wire rope, which is what the hoist / winch industry calls what a lot of people call "cable".
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jhg
Member Joined: 07 Nov. 2016 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 917 |
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I want to resurrect this to make a couple comments about the safety of wire rope vs synthetic winch.
I have used both in industrial applications (logging & arborist rigging/chipper winching limbs). Don't be fooled into complacency when using synthetic winch line. It can put a shackle through your head just as easily as a wire rope can if an anchor point fails or releases. Back up all your anchor points with a fuse (jacket, whatever). Understand system force dynamics, capacity and how they can be multiplied or reduced. It does not matter syn line is lighter (safer?) The system only reacts to loads placed upon it and those will either be within its safe limits, or not. Outcomes depend on the user. The system is only as safe as its operator/builder, nothing else. Edited by jhg - 11 Jan. 2022 at 10:35am |
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1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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oldmansimek
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2019 Location: CT Status: Offline Points: 177 |
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If your going to run synthetic run with the hawse, no moving parts to break or wear out and it has less chance of getting damaged. Plus they are really cheap. P.S. You might be overthinking this.
I will never buy another winch with steel cable (for a vehicle). I have personally seen the damage they do when they break and have cut my hands more times then I can count even with gloves on. You can also shave about 30-40 lbs of weight going synthetic w/aluminum hawse. Edited by oldmansimek - 11 Jan. 2022 at 12:12pm |
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windyhill
Member Joined: 14 Mar. 2009 Location: North East PA Status: Offline Points: 1395 |
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For the old Jeep, I'll stay with steel cable, Realistically it gets used so little and hardly ever to capacity so I don't see any advantage to synthetic line. Like with all tools you need to know what your doing. I always put a blanket or jacket over the line in case it brakes, I use gloves etc. and pay attention. I do a fair amount winching with the logging winch on the tractor, not so much on the jeep.
For my Jeep: Steel line looks period correct It doesn't brake down and get weak from sun and water exposer over time. It adds extra weight to the front end, for when I pull my spreader. Holds up better to abrasion dirt etc. For the ATV, I switched to synthetic, it gets wound in and out more often, and I felt the extra safety of not having it snap back in my face is worth it. |
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'48 CJ2A
'53 CJ3B '59 CJ6 '65 CJ5 '67 CJ5 |
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bight
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 20 Aug. 2020 Location: mid coast maine Status: Offline Points: 1689 |
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good additional input here.
just one comment: safer is actually not a word. either something is safe or it is not safe (unsafe). one could ponder levels of safety which is solely a measure of your comfort level with something hopefully based upon facts and experience. there is way too much erroneous info out there based upon myth(s) that exists regarding this topic. as oldtime states, he derives satisfaction with working within a 5:1 design factor (the correct term). that is broadly utilized within the rigging, lifting, moving world. this provides a very significant cushion if miscalculations of load, rigging design (sling angles, etc.) and/or friction occur. certainly not a bad way of thinking. but personally i think it is a bit high. since i do have a bit of experience in the realm of rigging, i am ok with a 3:1 design factor. fortunately, and in most cases, through careful planning and winching operations with a fairly low mass vehicle such as a flatfender Jeep (minimize your extra stuff on board!) and quality winch/accessories you will not typically even approach exceeding a 5:1 design factor. can you? certainly. but why would you intentionally do this?
Edited by bight - 11 Jan. 2022 at 2:21pm |
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CJ-2A 72586 tan (stock)
CJ-2A 197624 green (resto-mod) the wife abides (def: to bear patiently; TOLERATE) |
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13606 |
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Because, I saw this little trail heading off down through the woods....it turned into some bottom land, then next thing I know......there is no bottom......and I'm by myself.....soooooo, one thing turned into another and.... Sorry, couldn't resist....just a little levity. All valid points I guess. Old school vs new school. |
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'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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duffer
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2012 Location: Bozeman, MT Status: Offline Points: 1088 |
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If you are north of the Mason-Dixon line, there is another potential big problem with synthetic line. You can't unspool it if it's frozen solid. That said, I'm also sold on synthetic and I do use it with a roller fairlead. But I built that fairlead with some really tight clearance between the rollers and used 3/4" 4140 for the shafts to minimize deflection. I occasionally need a rearward extraction and just run the line under the Willys. A hawse fairlead would be putting a rather large amount of additional load on the line in that situation. That is also how I bent my stock Warn lower roller shaft.
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1955 3B: 441sbc,AGE 4 speed transmission, Teralow D18w/Warn OD, 4.11:1 D44's/ARB's, glass tub & fenders, aluminum hood/grill, 8274, York OBA, Premier Power Welder; 67 CJ5: 225,T86AA, D18, 4.88's, OD
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BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 630 |
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This is an interesting thread, and a lot of good information. I also have a good deal of experience rigging, although my experience is primarily on the extreme ends of the dynamic spectrum:
Construction; very static assemblies. primarily heavy equipment using chain in conjunction with beams, shackles hooks and bars with the most dynamic component typically being slings, (plus some complicated tech stuff primary for lifting large glass or acrylic panels), With the appropriate engineering and time a safe approach is always possible. The other end of the spectrum is adventure sports: (my experience is in white water kayaking and climbing, using primarily dynamic assemblies employing lower capacity more elastic rope, webbing, aluminum connectors and small wedge type anchors. It is this experience which makes me take exception to the statement, "just one comment: safer is actually not a word. either something is safe or it is not safe (unsafe)". In adventure sports, or rescue, there are times when the activity undertaken is inherently unsafe, where it is not possible to completely control the risk. In those circumstances a tremendous amount of thought, preparation and practice may go into determining the "safest" route, or method. Some routes, some equipment and some methods are definitely "safer" than others. That said, I think the current discussion around winches and types of cable or rope falls more toward the construction end of the spectrum, where with a little thought a person could come up with a very safe set of methods and equipment. (hi-lift jacks maybe being an exception?)
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BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
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jhg
Member Joined: 07 Nov. 2016 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 917 |
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Our mind is the tool most effective and the tool most often left unused, or it seems that way often enough. Case in point the guy pulling a tree stump in his front yard using a recovery strap (dynamic material) that on the jerk sends the hook through the back window of the Bronco and into the guys head. Right in the middle of a quiet suburban neighborhood no less. Just think it through, then move forward. |
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1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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