Stan’s 59 Chevy Apache |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6144 |
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Posted: 17 July 2014 at 5:18pm |
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Since
I've had it the bed has been a mess. Original wood was all rotted out. It had a
couple of layers of plywood on top of the original rotted wood, then the
previous owner knew someone that did diamond plate so he put a bunch of diamond
plate scrap pieces on the plywood when it had rotted, all hodgepodge, just
screwed down with wood screws. When I got it I threw another sheet of plywood
over the top of all that. An ugly mess, but it worked, I still used the truck
to haul stuff, but I've been thinking about fixing it for 5 years.
Edited by smfulle - 04 Aug. 2021 at 12:27am |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Nice work. I especially like how the frame turned out.
Hope we can do the same quality lever repairs on my buddies stepside when we get back to it. Right now I am working on his other 66 and I may do the POR 15 thing on the front frame while I am swapping motors.
Yellow pine, huh? So you figure of all the woods you can choose bed kits that is the best for durability?
I would have thought oak... Looks good anyhow.. Are you doing stainless for the bed strips or plain painted ones?
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6144 |
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Well, they tell me that yellow pine was the original wood. That had a little influence, but the biggest factor was that it was the least expensive of all the woods offered. Still not cheap enough to tell my wife unless she asks a direct question.
I'm going with the unpolished stainless bed strips. |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Good decision on the unpolished strips...Cheap enough and the most durable out there..I hear you on the wood pricing.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6144 |
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PapaC
Member Joined: 11 Sep. 2013 Location: Ms Status: Offline Points: 205 |
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I LIKE it and have got 5 bucks that says outside good pine will outlast oak.
You've seen how that pine soaked up that tung oil. Oak is so hard it wouldn't have soaked up near as much and polyurethane would have been needed to protect. That doesn't look so great after a while. Especially after it gets nicked up from use. Any of them are going to fade but you can always easily freshen up a tung oil finish any time. No sanding needed, just slap on another coat to refresh. Another interesting fact is tung oil is how they 'used' to finish the pine floors in old hardware stores and the like. The tung oil gets in the wood, it gets scratched up and dinged and multiple re-coats over the years and today that distressed wood that even though it's dry is still saturated, finishes with a beautiful distinctive color. and is worth the big bucks when it's reclaimed to use as floors in new houses. That's also why they always use pine instead of oak for pressure treating. Pressure treating oak would be a waste of time. It just won't soak it up. ps. My opinion is EXTREMLY biased!!! <img src="smileys/smiley1.gif" align="middle" /> I've got tung oil (and an increasing amount of polyurethane mixed in for walking on durability in the last three coats) in most of my house. After 10 years it still looks good. Another ps COOL TRUCK!!! Edited by PapaC - 20 July 2014 at 8:41am |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6144 |
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Papac,
Thanks for the comments. At the beginning of this i knew zero about wood and wood finishes. Now i know a little bit more and your comments add to that. Time will tell. I just knew i didn't want a clear finish that would crack and peel. I'd much rather have a slow fade. |
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F Bill
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 05 Dec. 2005 Location: central Texas Status: Offline Points: 7752 |
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Wow, that turned out great....and you guys have me convinced tung oil and yellow pine will be in the next shortbed Ford I do.
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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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Looks good!
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6144 |
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Last year I started participating in some of the rides sponsored by folks here on the Cj2apage and I decided that I needed a little more truck to tow my jeep from Northern Utah to South Dakota/Colorado/Moab/California. I bough an F150 for my Jeep support vehicle (already on my 2nd one, but that's a story told elsewhere). thereby relegating my 59 pickup to mostly driveway art and occasional runs to dump the grass clippings.
A couple of weeks ago on the way home from dumping the grass clippings, the door wouldn't stay shut. I had to drive home while holding the door shut with my left had and shifting AND steering with my right hand. Not that fun. When I got home I discovered that the bottom door hinge was really loose, but it was a fairly new hinge. Turned out the place on the door the hinge bolts to was all cracked and broken. Here's a couple of pics. You can't see the cracks very good here, but I wanted you to see how tricky a spot this is. The hinge slides into the door through a hole in the front edge and is bolted to the door through this recessed opening. In this close up pic you can see the broken metal. The nuts that hold the hinge in are welded to the back of the panel and there is no way to get to get back there to weld on the back side. The arm of the hinge that comes through the opening is thick enough that there is no room to put a plate over the broken part. In this pic I did the best I could with a small wire brush on my drill to buff off the rust and get a better look at the cracks. I went ahead and did my best to get some weld on the cracks using my highly technical and desirable (not) technique of gobbing it on the best that I can. The really tricky part was that there could be almost no weld standing up proud above the original metal or the hinge would not fit in there. The recessed opening made it almost impossible to get a grinder on the wonderful bird droppings that I had deposited there. I used a combination of a really tiny worn out grinding disk, a saws all with a metal blade to reach in and cut the tops of some welds, and a long file to knock the welds down the best that I could. Here's how the final product looked. Not pretty, but the door shuts and stays shut now, so I'm happy. |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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Good job! You should wheel that truck
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6144 |
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Funny, If there is anything that gets worse traction than an Willys with NTDs, its a vintage, light weight, 2 wheel drive, short bed pickup that is grossly overpowered. What they are really good for is the cool feeling you get when you rev it to the red line and step off of the left hand pedal and that light weight rear end tries to get around in front of you. They are great for creating that awesome burnt rubber smell too! "Course, I'm only telling you what I've heard. Old guys like me never squander MPG or rubber by running high revs or trying to squeak the tires in all the gears.
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Bill2A
Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2018 Location: Fort Worth, Tex Status: Offline Points: 517 |
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1946 CJ2A 14098
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6144 |
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This thing hasn’t been my daily driver for a few years and has become a bit neglected. The cam on the 350 went flat a few years ago and it has been sitting all sad and lonely since then.
I finally decided to do what it takes to get it back to a functioning vehicle. I pulled the drivetrain out and sent the motor off to the machine shop for a rebuild. I got the motor back and I’m finishing up getting all the peripherals bolted on. It’s taking longer than it should because it’s hard to get motivated to go out in the garage when it’s close to 100 degrees out there. The goal is to have it together and running so I can drive it out if the garage before the snow flies so I can put my current daily driver back in the garage and not have to scrape the windows like I did last winter cuz it sat out side while this guy took up space in the garage. |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6144 |
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Small steps. I got the valve covers, carb, fuel pump, alternator, fan and belt, distributor, and headers bolted on. Then I hung it on the cherry picker and bolted on the flywheel.
I hit a bit of a roadblock. I have a Ford Tremec transmission with a case worked over to bolt to a Chevy bell housing. That means I need a pilot bushing with the outside diameter for the SB Chevy crankshaft and the inside diameter for a Ford transmission nose shaft. I’ll have to make a call to the folks who sell the reworked transmissions and get a pilot bushing sent out.
Edited by smfulle - 07 Aug. 2021 at 7:11pm |
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chasendeer
Member Joined: 24 Feb. 2012 Location: Napa,CA Status: Offline Points: 1088 |
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Looking good. I know that Novak sells and bushing that you need, abc to to Ford t18.
Jay
Edited by chasendeer - 06 Aug. 2021 at 12:03am |
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4412 |
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Cool Stan! I like old Chevys too. Oilly
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6144 |
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Thanks for the tip Jay. I’ve got one on the way.
Thanks John. Based on your collection, you like everything.😋
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