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Stan’s 59 Chevy Apache

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    Posted: 17 July 2014 at 5:18pm


My daily driver is a 1959 Chevy pickup.

 

 

 Since I've had it the bed has been a mess. Original wood was all rotted out. It had a couple of layers of plywood on top of the original rotted wood, then the previous owner knew someone that did diamond plate so he put a bunch of diamond plate scrap pieces on the plywood when it had rotted, all hodgepodge, just screwed down with wood screws. When I got it I threw another sheet of plywood over the top of all that. An ugly mess, but it worked, I still used the truck to haul stuff, but I've been thinking about fixing it for 5 years. 

Finally this summer I ordered a kit from Mar-K and I'm in the middle of getting it painted and installed.

i forgot to take any before shots, but here are some pics of when I was just getting everything torn down.

Here you can see a scrap of the original wood.


Here's what the metal strips that hold the hold the original wood boards looked like when I got them torn out.




Had my wife and kids help lift the bed off to reveal the rusty frame.




I cleaned up the frame with a wire brush on my angle grinder, then painted it with POR 15.


The wood kit that I bought from MAR K is the yellow pine. I still use this truck as a truck and didn't want any exotic wood that I would cry over if it got dented. I also wanted some type of finish that would look good, but also be easy to touch up. I decided to go with tung oil. I bought a couple of quarts of the Pure Tung Oil from the Real Milk Paint Co. I got the DARK version of the tung oil rather than the natural color.

Yesterday I rubbed many coats of tung oil onto the wood. I cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits and poured it on, then rubbed it in, leaving the wood wet. I would wait a 15 - 45 minutes until it looked like the wood was drying out and then rub some more on. I probably did this 5 times. I forgot to say that before I started on the flats of the boards, I stood them on end in a bucket of tung oil for several hours so the oil could wick up the end fibers.

At the end of the day yesterday I waited about an hour after the last application, and then wiped the boards dry to set over night.

Today I went out and put two more applications of the tung oil on, then after an hour, wiped the boards dry again. Here is how that look right now.


Here's a close up, but the color is a little off in this phone photo. The real color is more like the previous photo.


I really like how the boards turned out. i hope that the tung oil finish will hold up. I have no experience with it, or any type of wood finish. I just didn't want any type of varnish or clear coat that would peal. I'm waiting for a couple of cross sills then I will put it all back together and get some finish product photos up.



Edited by smfulle - 04 Aug. 2021 at 12:27am
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2014 at 6:13pm
Nice work. I especially like how the frame turned out.
 
Hope we can do the same quality lever repairs on my buddies stepside when we get back to it. Right now I am working on his other 66 and I may do the POR 15 thing on the front frame while I am swapping motors.
 
Yellow pine, huh? So you figure of all the woods you can choose bed kits that is the best for durability?
I would have thought oak... Looks good anyhow.. Are you doing stainless for the bed strips or plain painted ones?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2014 at 6:36pm
Well, they tell me that yellow pine was the original wood. That had a little influence, but the biggest factor was that it was the least expensive of all the woods offered. Still not cheap enough to tell my wife unless she asks a direct question.
I'm going with the unpolished stainless bed strips.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2014 at 6:57pm
Good decision on the unpolished strips...Cheap enough and the most durable out there..I hear you on the wood pricing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2014 at 7:02am
Got the thing put together today. I'm really happy with how it turned out.
My wife likes it too!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PapaC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2014 at 8:36am
I LIKE it and have got 5 bucks that says outside good pine will outlast oak.

You've seen how that pine soaked up that tung oil. Oak is so hard it wouldn't have soaked up near as much and polyurethane would have been needed to protect. That doesn't look so great after a while. Especially after it gets nicked up from use. Any of them are going to fade but you can always easily freshen up a tung oil finish any time. No sanding needed, just slap on another coat to refresh.

Another interesting fact is tung oil is how they 'used' to finish the pine floors in old hardware stores and the like. The tung oil gets in the wood, it gets scratched up and dinged and multiple re-coats over the years and today that distressed wood that even though it's dry is still saturated, finishes with a beautiful distinctive color. and is worth the big bucks when it's reclaimed to use as floors in new houses.

That's also why they always use pine instead of oak for pressure treating. Pressure treating oak would be a waste of time. It just won't soak it up.


ps. My opinion is EXTREMLY biased!!! <img src="smileys/smiley1.gif" align="middle" />

I've got tung oil (and an increasing amount of polyurethane mixed in for walking on durability in the last three coats) in most of my house. After 10 years it still looks good.   

Another ps

COOL TRUCK!!!

Edited by PapaC - 20 July 2014 at 8:41am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2014 at 4:05pm
Papac,
Thanks for the comments. At the beginning of this i knew zero about wood and wood finishes. Now i know a little bit more and your comments add to that. Time will tell. I just knew i didn't want a clear finish that would crack and peel. I'd much rather have a slow fade.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2014 at 12:56pm
Wow, that turned out great....and you guys have me convinced tung oil and yellow pine will be in the next shortbed Ford  I do.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2014 at 1:12pm
Looks good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep. 2017 at 5:32pm
Last year I started participating in some of the rides sponsored by folks here on the Cj2apage and I decided that I needed a little more truck to tow my jeep from Northern Utah to South Dakota/Colorado/Moab/California. I bough an F150 for my Jeep support vehicle (already on my 2nd one, but that's a story told elsewhere). thereby relegating my  59 pickup to mostly driveway art and occasional runs to dump the grass clippings.  

A couple of weeks ago on the way home from dumping the grass clippings, the door wouldn't stay shut. I had to drive home while holding the door shut with my left had and shifting AND steering with my right hand. Not that fun. 

When I got home I discovered that the bottom door hinge was really loose, but it was a fairly new hinge. Turned out the place on the door the hinge bolts to was all cracked and broken. Here's a couple of pics.

You can't see the cracks very good here, but I wanted  you to see how tricky a spot this is. The hinge slides into the door through a hole in the front edge and is bolted to the door through this recessed opening. 



In this close up pic you can see the broken metal.  The nuts that hold the hinge in are welded to the back of the panel and there is no way to get to get back there to weld on the back side. The arm of the hinge that comes through the opening is thick enough that there is no room to put a plate over the broken part.





In this pic I did the best I could with a small wire brush on my drill to buff off the rust and get a better look at the cracks.








I went ahead and did my best to get some weld on the cracks  using my highly technical and desirable (not) technique of gobbing it on the best that I can. The really tricky part was that there could be almost no weld standing up proud above the original metal or the hinge would not fit in there. The recessed opening made it almost impossible to get a grinder on the wonderful bird droppings that I had deposited there.  I used a  combination of a really tiny worn out grinding disk, a saws all with a metal blade to reach in and cut the tops of some welds, and a long file to knock the welds down the best that I could. 

Here's how the final product looked. Not pretty, but the door shuts and stays shut now, so I'm happy.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep. 2017 at 5:42pm
Good job!  You should wheel that truck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep. 2017 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

Good job!  You should wheel that truck

Funny, If there is anything that gets worse traction than an Willys with NTDs, its a vintage, light weight, 2 wheel drive, short bed pickup that is grossly overpowered. 

What they are really good for is the cool feeling you get when  you rev it to the red line and step off of the left hand pedal and that light weight rear end tries to get around in front of you. They are great for creating that awesome burnt rubber smell too! 

"Course, I'm only telling you what I've heard. Old guys like me never squander MPG or rubber by running high revs or trying to squeak the tires in all the gears. Evil Smile
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LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug. 2021 at 12:40am
This thing hasn’t been my daily driver for a few years and has become a bit neglected. The cam on the 350 went flat a few years ago and it has been sitting all sad and lonely since then.
I finally decided to do what it takes to get it back to a functioning vehicle.

I pulled the drivetrain out and sent the motor off to the machine shop for a rebuild.



I got the motor back and I’m finishing up getting all the peripherals bolted on. It’s taking longer than it should because it’s hard to get motivated to go out in the garage when it’s close to 100 degrees out there. 


The goal is to have it together and running so I can drive it out if the garage before the snow flies so I can put my current daily driver back in the garage and not have to scrape the windows like I did last winter cuz it sat out side while this guy took up space in the garage.

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2021 at 10:00pm
Small steps. I got the valve covers, carb, fuel pump, alternator, fan and belt, distributor, and headers bolted on. Then I hung it on the cherry picker and bolted on the flywheel.



I hit a bit of a roadblock. I have a Ford Tremec transmission with a case worked over to bolt to a Chevy bell housing. That means I need a pilot bushing with the outside diameter for the SB Chevy crankshaft and the inside diameter for a Ford transmission nose shaft. I’ll have to make a call to the folks who sell the reworked transmissions and get a pilot bushing sent out. 


Edited by smfulle - 07 Aug. 2021 at 7:11pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasendeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2021 at 11:58pm
Looking good. I know that Novak sells and bushing that you need, abc to to Ford t18. 
Jay


Edited by chasendeer - 06 Aug. 2021 at 12:03am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug. 2021 at 7:28am
Cool Stan! I like old Chevys too. Oilly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug. 2021 at 7:10pm
Originally posted by chasendeer chasendeer wrote:

Looking good. I know that Novak sells and bushing that you need, abc to to Ford t18. 
Jay

Thanks for the tip Jay. I’ve got one on the way.

Originally posted by Oilleaker1 Oilleaker1 wrote:

Cool Stan! I like old Chevys too. Oilly

Thanks John. Based on your collection, you like everything.😋
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